Your 2 cents appreciated...
Your 2 cents appreciated... Looks like it time to go nitrous or Forced Induction. Im either going turbo or 200-250 direct port shot. So, I need to build a motor. Would design be significanlt different? I assume an aluminum (unless have to go iron) block, forged crank and pistons, 144-115 ISA CAM.... What can you guys 
TELL ME ABOUT BEST DIRECTION. 6.0 HEADS? sTAGE 2 OR 3 PORTING GONNA HELP?
sorry about screamin' damn caps lock. I'm looking to run high 10's...assume appropriate drivetrain. What name brands are best suited...flat top or cupped pistons? What compression? Sponsers are encouraged to chime in as I need to puchase this stuff.
Jas-
Update...went w/ twins instead!
TELL ME ABOUT BEST DIRECTION. 6.0 HEADS? sTAGE 2 OR 3 PORTING GONNA HELP? sorry about screamin' damn caps lock. I'm looking to run high 10's...assume appropriate drivetrain. What name brands are best suited...flat top or cupped pistons? What compression? Sponsers are encouraged to chime in as I need to puchase this stuff.
Jas-
Update...went w/ twins instead!
Re: Your 2 cents appreciated... well, im obviously far from an engine expert, but
If i was going FI, i would have a 6.0L block and heads
because the 6.0L block is already setup to get those big bores without having to re-sleeve the block
and the 6.0L heads will drop the compression pretty good, to save the motor with the added boost
You will be adding a couple hundred pounds to the car with the iron block, but you will more than make it up if you have a 400+ cubic inch motor PLUS boost
As for the rest of the stuff you wanna know about, I'll let the others chime in on that
good luck with your decisions
If i was going FI, i would have a 6.0L block and heads
because the 6.0L block is already setup to get those big bores without having to re-sleeve the block
and the 6.0L heads will drop the compression pretty good, to save the motor with the added boost
You will be adding a couple hundred pounds to the car with the iron block, but you will more than make it up if you have a 400+ cubic inch motor PLUS boost
As for the rest of the stuff you wanna know about, I'll let the others chime in on that
good luck with your decisions
Re: Your 2 cents appreciated... I have built engines for both combos. The main difference will be piston selection. For FI, you will want about 15cc to 20cc dishes, and for N2O you will stay with flat tops (and maybe valve reliefs).
Otherwise, you can easily get to 10s with a stock crank in the motor. You can even get to the 9s. The forged crank is added expense. The iron block will save money if you want a larger bore. You can safely get to 375cid with a stock crank and overbore on the 6.0L block.
You can even get to 396cid with an offset crank. Check out Texas Speed & Performance's web site (to the right) for info on the 396cid buildup. You can't beat the price on this motor unless you do it yourself.
Otherwise, you can easily get to 10s with a stock crank in the motor. You can even get to the 9s. The forged crank is added expense. The iron block will save money if you want a larger bore. You can safely get to 375cid with a stock crank and overbore on the 6.0L block.
You can even get to 396cid with an offset crank. Check out Texas Speed & Performance's web site (to the right) for info on the 396cid buildup. You can't beat the price on this motor unless you do it yourself.
Re: Your 2 cents appreciated... Stew and Reckless, thanks for chiming in. Reck, Thats great to hear about the stock crank. My pistons were fly cut to handle the current cam so perhaps the better route for the immediate is just some 6.0 heads and a direct port N20 kit...until the pistons or rings go. So much research to do, thanks for the head start.
