Another cam thread. Stalled Auto. Long Write-Up.
#1
Another cam thread. Stalled Auto. Long Write-Up.
Hey guys, well i am buying parts to store up over the winter and put in around April/May. Anyhow current things already in the car/came with when purchased and it being an 01 is:
-3.23's
-LS6 Intake Mani
-Open Y-Pipe
-BMR Front Lowering Springs
-TCI Line Lock
-!EGR
-241 Heads
That being said i have just ordered a Yank SBS 3800 2.55STR Converter. My GF, yes my GF, will be ordering me a Perma Cool 20-22GVW Trans Cooler, and Motive 3.73's from TSP this month. Shortly after that i will be ordering some BMR Rear Lowering Springs and BMR SFC's either this month or next. In December my GF will also be ordering me some PaceSetter Cermic Coated L/T's for Christmas(She refuses to buy anymore parts after this so she can buy me XMas presents SHE wants to get me, haha).
ANYHOW, after the L/T's are here in January/Febraury TSP True Duals will be ordered with a set of Sweet Thunders with them. After this i will most likely be slowing down and enjoying my money not being spent but an SLP Lid and SLP Smooth Bellow will soon follow in Febraury along with some !Air Block Offs.
Upon the time of putting all these parts in my TB will be sent off for some P&P and maybe even a TSP Mail Order Tune. WELL, sorry for the long write up, BUT i wanted to give some detail on the set up and have some depth into my plans. I think i have cut my cam choice down to the MTI X1 or TR230.
X1:
230/227 .59x/.57X 112LSA
TR230:
230/224 .575/.563 111LSA
This car will be daily driven, see rain/little snow, mileage is no issue. Im wanting to run a reverse split cam because i plan on keeping the stock 241 Heads/LS6 Intake mani. I'm wanting damn near 400WHP if not over on the dyno when i go to have it tuned. Anyhow, the main questions i have been pondering is:
1: Is my stall to big?
2: Do my mods/future mods seem about right for a cam swap?(Do note that supporting cam mods springs/pr's/timing chain/oil pump will come w/ cam)
3: Which cam do you think is best and why?
Well thanks guys, hope this wasn't a pain reading, tried to space her out a bit, any input on mods/cam is appreciated. Thanks - Zack
-3.23's
-LS6 Intake Mani
-Open Y-Pipe
-BMR Front Lowering Springs
-TCI Line Lock
-!EGR
-241 Heads
That being said i have just ordered a Yank SBS 3800 2.55STR Converter. My GF, yes my GF, will be ordering me a Perma Cool 20-22GVW Trans Cooler, and Motive 3.73's from TSP this month. Shortly after that i will be ordering some BMR Rear Lowering Springs and BMR SFC's either this month or next. In December my GF will also be ordering me some PaceSetter Cermic Coated L/T's for Christmas(She refuses to buy anymore parts after this so she can buy me XMas presents SHE wants to get me, haha).
ANYHOW, after the L/T's are here in January/Febraury TSP True Duals will be ordered with a set of Sweet Thunders with them. After this i will most likely be slowing down and enjoying my money not being spent but an SLP Lid and SLP Smooth Bellow will soon follow in Febraury along with some !Air Block Offs.
Upon the time of putting all these parts in my TB will be sent off for some P&P and maybe even a TSP Mail Order Tune. WELL, sorry for the long write up, BUT i wanted to give some detail on the set up and have some depth into my plans. I think i have cut my cam choice down to the MTI X1 or TR230.
X1:
230/227 .59x/.57X 112LSA
TR230:
230/224 .575/.563 111LSA
This car will be daily driven, see rain/little snow, mileage is no issue. Im wanting to run a reverse split cam because i plan on keeping the stock 241 Heads/LS6 Intake mani. I'm wanting damn near 400WHP if not over on the dyno when i go to have it tuned. Anyhow, the main questions i have been pondering is:
1: Is my stall to big?
2: Do my mods/future mods seem about right for a cam swap?(Do note that supporting cam mods springs/pr's/timing chain/oil pump will come w/ cam)
3: Which cam do you think is best and why?
Well thanks guys, hope this wasn't a pain reading, tried to space her out a bit, any input on mods/cam is appreciated. Thanks - Zack
#4
For street driving, the stall will be a bit loose. If you plan on taking it to a track or race it occassionally, then it will get you the best performance. If the converter is locked, you may see 400rwhp, unlocked you will not. Good luck!
#5
I disagree about that stall being too big for racing. From what I've noticed, you go fastest with a verter that is very close to peak TQ. If you can hook it, your hitting the tires as hard as you can on the launch driving your 60' down and putting the motor in it's power band faster.
#1 question you need to ask yourself though, is what do you want from the car? A max effort strip car you drive on the street or a decent performing street car the will run a good time, but not it's best.
I don't DD my truck but it does see quite a bit of street miles when it runs. I have a 4,900 verter in it.
#1 question you need to ask yourself though, is what do you want from the car? A max effort strip car you drive on the street or a decent performing street car the will run a good time, but not it's best.
I don't DD my truck but it does see quite a bit of street miles when it runs. I have a 4,900 verter in it.
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#9
Thanks Tony, check your IMS PM's
#12
^Already ordered the 3800. I initially was wanting a 3400 but decided i wanted more after what i have read on the forum and been told. I decided 4k was to big so i would go with a 3800. Anything over 4k just seems insane in a street car for me. Hah.
#13
I'll start off by saying that your stall is NOT too big for the cams listed. Your stall is not too big for the stock cam! I used to run a 4400 stall with a stock-internal engine. It all comes down to how much converter you want to put up with and how well you can hook at the track. The 3800 you selected is PERFECT IMO for a street/strip car. It's loose enough to net nice results at the track, tight enough to take a little nitrous, and tight enough to run around with on the street...at least for me. Converters are like cams in that they're very subjective. What one person thinks is perfect another thinks is too big or small. We used to sell a 232/228 reverse-split cam that worked very well if you're wanting to stick with a reverse-split. We also offer custom grinds if you want one of the cams you listed. It would consistently gain 45-50 RWHP on a car with full bolt-ons. You could run Comp 918's with it to save money, and we have the cam package on sale with 918's and hardened pushrods for $589.99 + shipping. 400 RWHP might happen if you lock the converter on the dyno, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's only for a dyno number, and locking a single-disc converter at WOT is NOT easy on the lockup clutch. Be sure to dyno the setup with the converter installed before you swap cams. A higher stall speed torque converter will show a power loss at the rear wheels, but you'll run an easy .5-.6 quicker in the 1/4 so long as you can hook off of the line. My '02 Camaro SS used to run 11.40's cam-only with a 3,550 lb. raceweight making 369 RWHP through a 4400 stall. Dyno numbers are for comparisons to see real gains, not for gospel.
Let me know if we can help you out!
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
Let me know if we can help you out!
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
#15
false, that converter is not to loose for the street at all, i run the same converter and i drive it about 35 miles a day, through city and highway driving, it actually runs well. I dont see over 2200rpms driving around. (if im not stepping on it) I would get that converter or even a higher one. With that converter, ls6 intake, catback and 2.73s i went 12.3, highly recommend
#16
I'll start off by saying that your stall is NOT too big for the cams listed. Your stall is not too big for the stock cam! I used to run a 4400 stall with a stock-internal engine. It all comes down to how much converter you want to put up with and how well you can hook at the track. The 3800 you selected is PERFECT IMO for a street/strip car. It's loose enough to net nice results at the track, tight enough to take a little nitrous, and tight enough to run around with on the street...at least for me. Converters are like cams in that they're very subjective. What one person thinks is perfect another thinks is too big or small. We used to sell a 232/228 reverse-split cam that worked very well if you're wanting to stick with a reverse-split. We also offer custom grinds if you want one of the cams you listed. It would consistently gain 45-50 RWHP on a car with full bolt-ons. You could run Comp 918's with it to save money, and we have the cam package on sale with 918's and hardened pushrods for $589.99 + shipping. 400 RWHP might happen if you lock the converter on the dyno, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's only for a dyno number, and locking a single-disc converter at WOT is NOT easy on the lockup clutch. Be sure to dyno the setup with the converter installed before you swap cams. A higher stall speed torque converter will show a power loss at the rear wheels, but you'll run an easy .5-.6 quicker in the 1/4 so long as you can hook off of the line. My '02 Camaro SS used to run 11.40's cam-only with a 3,550 lb. raceweight making 369 RWHP through a 4400 stall. Dyno numbers are for comparisons to see real gains, not for gospel.
Let me know if we can help you out!
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
Let me know if we can help you out!
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
110% agree
#18
The 4,900 in my truck is very docile when you are part throttle. With up to 20-25% throttle, it comes up to about 1,700-2,000 before it starts moving the truck with force. Obviously if I whack it harder than that, it'll go up in RPM quickly, but it's all about throttle control. With the lock up at any real speed 35-75, there is no real slipping going on, keeps your trans temps down ect.
#19
false, that converter is not to loose for the street at all, i run the same converter and i drive it about 35 miles a day, through city and highway driving, it actually runs well. I dont see over 2200rpms driving around. (if im not stepping on it) I would get that converter or even a higher one. With that converter, ls6 intake, catback and 2.73s i went 12.3, highly recommend
Also Trans Cooler and 3.73's will be ordered the 21st as well as BMR Rear Lowering Springs, then short into December Sub Frames from BMR. Following that PaceSetter L/T's for Christmas and TSP Duals in January. Decided with the Bullets! I'm getting so pysched and hungry for more already. HAH.
Im actually considering the 232/228 Split. Any of you TSP Reps. have any previous numbers or clips or anything on that cam? Im just a little worried to run 918's with a cam in the .59X lift areas.
Also guys, don't know how accurate GTech is, but tonight i went out on a back road and calibrated it and ran with a buddy. Also had a present from the UPS guy in my backseat. Anyhow i went:
1/8th: 8.813
MPH: 84.7XXX
1/4: 13.5
MPH: 105.6
60': 2.1
Bone stock on Z Rated Dayton 245/50/16 street tires.
#20
I used to run a TR 236/230 on 918's. I had about 15k miles on them before I pulled the cam and sold the car. If memory serves me, it was .598/.58x. Car was an 01 M6 with Longtubes, Ported TB, ASP pulley, Stock heads and laid down 402rwhp. This was early on before LS1edit and HP tuners were the programs they are today. I think I could have gotten more out of it today had I had the programing tools I do today.
918's are good springs. Just make sure you have the correct install height and you should be fine to the .600" lift they say they are good for.
918's are good springs. Just make sure you have the correct install height and you should be fine to the .600" lift they say they are good for.