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Cam in A4 with stock stall???

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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:30 AM
  #21  
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I had a 221/221 on a stock stall.
Ran fine, but would bog irradically from a stop.
I thought part of it was the tune, but a
New converter fixed the problem.

If I remember correctly: - track times below.
13.2 @ 105 - stock cam/stock stall w/Bolt ons.
13.2 @ 105 - 221/221 cam / stocks stall w/Bolt ons. (always bogged)
12.6 @ 108 - 221/221 cam / 3500 stall w/Bolt ons.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:55 AM
  #22  
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you can run a 220 cam with no stall, I did for a while but you're not going to gain much as you would with a stall. My opinion do things are right or don't do them at all. Bottom line you can run one but you won't be happy with the performance. Get a stall that matches the cam you want plus a cooler and your car will run fine
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #23  
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If you are dead set on a stock stall (for what ever reasons) you should try and keep the overlap as minimal as possible. A negative overlap cam will be easier to idle smoothly and lower versus a positive overlap cam. What I am referring to is (for example) a 220 cam on a 116 LSA (-12 degrees of overlap) versus a 230 on a 112 LSA (6 degrees of overlap).
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:04 AM
  #24  
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Do the stall! If anything do the stall and hold on the cam till you can.
My GF DDs an 02 TA with a 224r, Yank SS3600. And if I hadnt driven the car before the stall, I would not be able to tell it was there just driving around.
It also has one of the big B&M coolers, the one with the fan on it. Even in heavy stop and go traffic on a hot day, I have never seen it go over 190 on the gauge.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:11 AM
  #25  
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GMRL how does that 224R cam sound at idle? When you jump on the throttle does the convertor flash up to 3500-4000rpm?
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mike13
GMRL how does that 224R cam sound at idle? When you jump on the throttle does the convertor flash up to 3500-4000rpm?
Its on a 112, so it has a noticeable lope to it, especially with the cutout open.
However with the cutout closed through the stock catback, it sounds just like stock. You can however get it on a 114 and 116 lobe seperation, it would probably sound very close to stock on one of those LSA.

Yeah, if you stomp on the gas the RPMS shoot up to that area and the car takes off hard, or spins the tires lol. Just driving around like normal though there isnt much of a difference.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:16 PM
  #27  
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What about an old man cam or a stealth cam?
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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i have the wimpy LS6 cam with ZERO drivability issues. idles smooth at 600/700 rpm sounds stock, with no lope. specs 550 lift, 218/204 dur ,117 lsa. i wish i'd gone bigger (i currently hav stock stall). i called lunati and they recommended 560 lift 221 dur on 115 lsa for my appl. i'm considering 565 lift 224/228 on a 115 lsa. if im wrong i could add a stall. just my 2 cents.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #29  
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with a quality converter and a transmission cooler you should be fine. I am running a B&M tranny cooler and a Circle D 4c. I daily drive it and no problems.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
i have the wimpy LS6 cam with ZERO drivability issues. idles smooth at 600/700 rpm sounds stock, with no lope. specs 550 lift, 218/204 dur ,117 lsa. i wish i'd gone bigger (i currently hav stock stall). i called lunati and they recommended 560 lift 221 dur on 115 lsa for my appl. i'm considering 565 lift 224/228 on a 115 lsa. if im wrong i could add a stall. just my 2 cents.
and your car should run like stock with a ls6 cam... but also will only gain around 10-15ish hp..
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:21 PM
  #31  
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i run a stall with stock cam. I will always have a stall love it
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #32  
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Buddy did a ls2 cheater cam and ls6 intake. base numbers where 321. After a tune and asp pulley and pacesetters he put down 383 through a A4. Cam sounds stock and little to no chop.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:26 PM
  #33  
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i dont even think the op is reading this anymore,

but i went through that phase too for like a week when i didnt want to buy a $700 converter. then i got over and realized how much of a bad idea it was,

of course you can run an aftermarket cam with a stock stall, but it would be SO small, i dont really see the gains being worth anywhere near the amount of money you would have to put into it. and even then you are losing some driveablitily, just a bad idea overall.

when you say out of the question, to me, out of the question in this situation means that trans better be infested with mutant cobras that will attack whoever removes the stock stall, otherwise call yank and get this sucker done
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 05:57 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
i dont even think the op is reading this anymore,

but i went through that phase too for like a week when i didnt want to buy a $700 converter. then i got over and realized how much of a bad idea it was,

of course you can run an aftermarket cam with a stock stall, but it would be SO small, i dont really see the gains being worth anywhere near the amount of money you would have to put into it. and even then you are losing some driveablitily, just a bad idea overall.

when you say out of the question, to me, out of the question in this situation means that trans better be infested with mutant cobras that will attack whoever removes the stock stall, otherwise call yank and get this sucker done
haha I was thinking the same thing on all points you made. If you think about it the cam will end up costing the same as a $700 converter when you factor in all the supporting valvetrain components
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #35  
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Put in a tsp 224R and gained 7 tenths and 8mph in my car with stock stall

Ran it for a year or two and sprayed on it, no problems

Drove just like any other cammed car

Then later put in a stall w/new trans.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #36  
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Just watch the bigger cams cause you have to raise the idle alittle and the car will try
to push thru the stock stall even at 800 rpm you will feel the converter trying to push thru
the brakes. It feels like you're holding the brake and gas pedal down at the same time.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 12:14 PM
  #37  
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Aslo like what was stated a few post ago...for the money to change cam, springs, retainers you'll be close to a good converter like the Vig.3200 or the Yank SS3600.
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