block honing question
block honing question dropped my block off for decking, honing, etc. Anyways the guy there says he can just clean up the bores and stock sized pistons can be used. Engine has 130k+ on it. Will I get a good seal with the rings? is this ok to do?
It'll work, but if you've got the engine all apart why not step up to an oversized forged piston so when you decide to spray or step up your game a bit, you'll be ready? The stock bore is 3.898" and in my case I'm using a
3.905" piston which is no more work to hone the block to that size as opposed to just "cleaning it up". If you talk to any of the sponsors at the right, they should be able to steer you in the right direction
3.905" piston which is no more work to hone the block to that size as opposed to just "cleaning it up". If you talk to any of the sponsors at the right, they should be able to steer you in the right direction
With that miles you have on your engine ,you need it hone it out to 3.905" , The factory bore is 3.898" , with a hone of 3.905" the difference is .007". That is a .0035" off each side of the cylinder walls, not much to work with . So with 130K miles your cylinders, there are warren (egg shaped) . So with the cylinder honed to 3.905" you will be close to a round cylinder. The factory rings will wear with the cylinder and if you put new rings in a cylinder that is not perfectly round they will not seat all the way around and you will have blow by or compression bypass.
Not saying that you cant use the stock pistons , but with the LS1 engines already having problems with piston slap and you hone it out even more your engine will most likely sound like a diesel engine .and if you decide to hone it out to 3.905" you will need your pistons first so the machinist can match fit the pistons to the new bore so you wont have any piston slap.
And with forged pistons they come with valve reliefs already cut in them , so if you decide to up grade to a larger cam shaft you wont have problems with piston to valve clearance. No melted pistons with nitrous , and no broke ring landing , witch is common with the stock pistons. So forged is a plus in alot of differant ways.
Not saying that you cant use the stock pistons , but with the LS1 engines already having problems with piston slap and you hone it out even more your engine will most likely sound like a diesel engine .and if you decide to hone it out to 3.905" you will need your pistons first so the machinist can match fit the pistons to the new bore so you wont have any piston slap.
And with forged pistons they come with valve reliefs already cut in them , so if you decide to up grade to a larger cam shaft you wont have problems with piston to valve clearance. No melted pistons with nitrous , and no broke ring landing , witch is common with the stock pistons. So forged is a plus in alot of differant ways.
Last edited by Randy WS6; Nov 19, 2008 at 08:16 AM.
You want to take it out to 3.905 so that your cylinders are back in round shape. Then just order an off the shelf 3.905 forged piston set. Like was said already its a good idea to have the pistons first so the machinist can match them up.
By keeping the cylinders at stock size you really are ripping yourself off because the cylinders will more than likely still be out of round.
By keeping the cylinders at stock size you really are ripping yourself off because the cylinders will more than likely still be out of round.
Like already mentioned, if you just want it to run, it'll work and probably seal up fine. Your machinist will probably bump a brush hone through it get some sort of crosshatch or to just "deglaze" it.
But if you wanna do it right, you should step up to a larger piston. Until someone comes out with a oversize cast piston, forged is really your only option. .005" is plenty to correct any taper or out-of-round from wear. If you are running stock rods, look for a piston with a .944" pin. If you use an aftermarket rod, it'll most likely have a .927" pin.
If you re use the stock rods, you may want to look into re sizing the rods with ARP bolts.
But if you wanna do it right, you should step up to a larger piston. Until someone comes out with a oversize cast piston, forged is really your only option. .005" is plenty to correct any taper or out-of-round from wear. If you are running stock rods, look for a piston with a .944" pin. If you use an aftermarket rod, it'll most likely have a .927" pin.
If you re use the stock rods, you may want to look into re sizing the rods with ARP bolts.
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why not do what the diesel guys do with the hyper e's have the head hard anondized...they take much more abuse in normal form that a gas engine...plus they are all detonation...thats all a diesel engine is. and those hyper pistons for the LS have been out for a while...that is from an 05 speed pro book
hyper e's for the 6.0 even...silvolite 3473HC available in std/.5/.75/1.0 mm overbore
hyper e's for the 6.0 even...silvolite 3473HC available in std/.5/.75/1.0 mm overbore
I'll be using forged pistons, just in stock size. The cylinders still have alot of cross hatching left and the machinist said a clean up hone is all thats needed.
Dont really know about this stuff so thanks for all the advice.
Dont really know about this stuff so thanks for all the advice.
