Help with head/cam choices
Help with head/cam choices First off let me state that I do not know much about choosing a head and cam combo. But I plan on collecting a few parts this winter.
The car:
1998 Trans Am A4-bone stock minus lid and CB, 3.23 rear.
HP goal:
Minimum of 400 rwhp.
I am on a budget and decided to look into LS6 heads. I plan on purchasing an LS6 intake, heads, cam, LT's. I really do not want to stall the car if it is not necessary, but will if needed. If I do stall it what should I go with? The car will be a DD car, but I have a truck that I usually drive. I also may have a rear end with 3.42 from an '02 T/A. If any of you guys could help me in my voyage of picking the right parts for my goals I would appreciate it.
The car:
1998 Trans Am A4-bone stock minus lid and CB, 3.23 rear.
HP goal:
Minimum of 400 rwhp.
I am on a budget and decided to look into LS6 heads. I plan on purchasing an LS6 intake, heads, cam, LT's. I really do not want to stall the car if it is not necessary, but will if needed. If I do stall it what should I go with? The car will be a DD car, but I have a truck that I usually drive. I also may have a rear end with 3.42 from an '02 T/A. If any of you guys could help me in my voyage of picking the right parts for my goals I would appreciate it.
Stalling the car is just as beneficial as doing a H/C combo, plus it's more fun. Many A4 cars love the PRC 5.3 2.5 heads w/ the TR 224 cam and a decent size stall (Yank 3200 or so). Near stock driveability and plenty of power to boot! That combined w/ the usual H/C swap parts, ported LS6 oil pump, LS2 chain and sprocket, .040 cometic head gaskets (what I would use), PRC Gold .660 springs, hardened 7.400 pushrods, any other necessary gaskets (timing cover, water pump, etc) and since your taking it off, add an underdrive pulley.
Stalling the car is just as beneficial as doing a H/C combo, plus it's more fun. Many A4 cars love the PRC 5.3 2.5 heads w/ the TR 224 cam and a decent size stall (Yank 3200 or so). Near stock driveability and plenty of power to boot! That combined w/ the usual H/C swap parts, ported LS6 oil pump, LS2 chain and sprocket, .040 cometic head gaskets (what I would use), PRC Gold .660 springs, hardened 7.400 pushrods, any other necessary gaskets (timing cover, water pump, etc) and since your taking it off, add an underdrive pulley.
you will definitely need to stall your car. to make 400rwhp you are gonna need to throw a cam for sure. u probably can do every bolt on and maybe a tune and be close to 400rwhp, but i dont think ive seen any fbody just use all bolt ons and make 400rwhp. especially in an auto.
i have an 02 Z28 with a vig 3200 stall and MTI X1 and made 395rwhp without a pulley.
i have an 02 Z28 with a vig 3200 stall and MTI X1 and made 395rwhp without a pulley.
360ish I think is the most a bolt on car will USUALLY make and that is an M6 car. I think a stalled stock car would be every bit as fast as a full A4 bolton car (no stall).
A lot of people are scared of stalls and don't really understand them. They think for instance a 3600 stall won't move their car until they hit 3600 but nothing could be farther from the truth. A good street stall will feel almost like stock just cruising but hit like a pimpslap at WOT
Most don't know what shift extension is either but in my case once I hit 4800-4900 rpm's I never go below that. My TC drops to that when it shifts at 6500 which is right at the peak of my torque curve and pulls from there back to my shift point. My OEM TC dropped to 3500 or so and there was a big lag until the powerband peaked. The only cost is a couple MPG's in the city. Once it locks on the hiway of couse MPG will be the same.
Even with no other mods a good TC will make a huge ET and SOTP difference. Prolly the best bang for buck go fast mod you can do
A lot of people are scared of stalls and don't really understand them. They think for instance a 3600 stall won't move their car until they hit 3600 but nothing could be farther from the truth. A good street stall will feel almost like stock just cruising but hit like a pimpslap at WOT
Most don't know what shift extension is either but in my case once I hit 4800-4900 rpm's I never go below that. My TC drops to that when it shifts at 6500 which is right at the peak of my torque curve and pulls from there back to my shift point. My OEM TC dropped to 3500 or so and there was a big lag until the powerband peaked. The only cost is a couple MPG's in the city. Once it locks on the hiway of couse MPG will be the same.
Even with no other mods a good TC will make a huge ET and SOTP difference. Prolly the best bang for buck go fast mod you can do
Last edited by SOMbitch; Nov 30, 2008 at 09:37 PM.
