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Putting in a cam, had some questions

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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Default Putting in a cam, had some questions

I did some searching and found some partial answers to my questions.
I currently have an A4 01 f-body with almost 80k on the clock. I have LTs, ported TB, lid. I am going to put in a G5X3 cam and would like to do everything right the first time. So far, here is what I have and I would like to know what else I will need.

G5X3 cam
Ported LS6 oil pump
LS2 timing chain
Patriot gold dual valve spring kit
Vig 3600 Stall
3.73 gears
ASP underdrive pulley
7.4" Hardened Pushrods
LS7 lifters
Stock 243s
Water pump gaskets
Front main seal
Timing cover gasket
Harmonic balancer bolt

I am also thinking of picking up a set of LS6 heads and getting them ported. Thoughts on that and will this cam be ok running with those heads? I am already aware I will need a good tune. Also curious if anyone has a guess as to what I can expect for HP numbers on this setup. I'm making a bit over 320rwhp now. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

Last edited by Snigga; Jan 20, 2009 at 09:19 AM. Reason: List updated
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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If its your first time, use the F-Body cam swap guide at www.ls1howto.com I did my first swap when I was 17 using that site, it breaks everything down really nicely.Your going to need a new crank bolt, gaskets, fluids, ect.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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As far as a parts list, off the top of my head....

Cam
Oil pump
Timing Chain
Spring kit
Push rod kit, Measured to spec
Gaskets such as timing cover and waterpump, also crank seal
Fluids such as oil, and coolant
Brake Clean
Crank bolt

As for cyl heads, you can toss a set on there un touchec and it should help given the compression is bumped, also you can get a thinner gasket to raise the CR. Unless you have ported heads before I would buy a set done up, or stick with untouched.

HP depending on what you do can be in the high 300's, and it should go fast.

Also if you want some free HP, put a U/D pulley on there. Since it has to come off why not put something better on, SLP, Powerbond are good pieces.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
As far as a parts list, off the top of my head....

Cam
Oil pump
Timing Chain
Spring kit
Push rod kit, Measured to spec
Gaskets such as timing cover and waterpump, also crank seal
Fluids such as oil, and coolant
Brake Clean
Crank bolt

As for cyl heads, you can toss a set on there un touchec and it should help given the compression is bumped, also you can get a thinner gasket to raise the CR. Unless you have ported heads before I would buy a set done up, or stick with untouched.

HP depending on what you do can be in the high 300's, and it should go fast.

Also if you want some free HP, put a U/D pulley on there. Since it has to come off why not put something better on, SLP, Powerbond are good pieces.
Very good advice.....
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kingc8r
Very good advice.....
I try once in a while, thanks!

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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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If your looking to do it right the first time then also before the cam get a Vig. 3600 torque converter. Car won't drive just right with that big cam and stock torque converter.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by z28C4maro82z
If your looking to do it right the first time then also before the cam get a Vig. 3600 torque converter. Car won't drive just right with that big cam and stock torque converter.
Agreed, Cam choice, race weight, and suspension often dictates stall and gearing selection.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. That how to guide is very nice. Guess I'll keep collecting parts till I get everything including that stall and maybe some nice 3.73 gears.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 04:58 PM
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yeah bro that is some nice advice everyone has posted above. Those gears will really wake up the car too. You should have fun with the x3. I had the G5X4 in my TA and car was fast as hell! With a good tune and neccesary bolt-ons 400rwhp could be in your range
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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List is updated. Missing anything? Also, looking into getting a fast 90/90 combo to do along with this swap. Thoughts?
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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My thoughts are hell yeah!
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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What size gasket should I be using with those 243s?
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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maybe a 7.425 pushrod. my 7.4s are a bit noisy sometimes.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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from your list it looks like all your missing is fluids (engine, coolant, tranny)
tranny cooler also
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:21 PM
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Yeah, figured fluids were a given. Anyway on what size gasket I should use on those heads?
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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I don't know if some one else mentioned it but get you a new set of LS2 lifter trays while your at it. it definetly cheap insurance. If your still on your original transmission get ready to have it built after the converter install and add you a good cooler.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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You'll need to get a longer 16mm bolt to put the pulley back on the crank.. if I remember correctly the length is 130mm(please correct me if I'm wrong)... it's a must.
Also, do yourself a favor and get a 6mm and 8mm tap to chase the holes in the block before you blow them out.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Nabdrill
You'll need to get a longer 16mm bolt to put the pulley back on the crank.. if I remember correctly the length is 130mm(please correct me if I'm wrong)... it's a must.
Also, do yourself a favor and get a 6mm and 8mm tap to chase the holes in the block before you blow them out.
Along with the longer bolt for starting the pulley back on the crank snout - he should get a stack of washers to adjust the bolt depth as the pulley moves towards the home position. Bottoming that longer installation bolt in the crank is a bad thing. If the bolt's lead thread gets damaged from bottoming out it will tear at the crank snout threads as the bolt is extracted. As for getting taps to clear the debris, grinding a slotted groove down the length of the threads of an old bolt works very well. Compressed air with a quarter inch diameter flexible hose really helps remove any coolant, dirt and old thread sealant from the tapped holes. I also put a little solvent in each hole and used compressed air to clean them thoroughly.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys.
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