I know on the stock rod bolts 15 LB on the first pass then 75 degrees on the second pass. Refering to the 01- up style SPS Bolts.

Then I came across this article about going an additional 10 Degrees to 85 degrees on the second pass VS. the 75 degrees.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...rod_bolts.aspx


Wanted to get opinions on the articles recomendation for STOCK rebuild type applications

 

I can't answer that question, but my question is why not go to a better rod bolt since the factory rod bolts are the weak link above 6800rpm as they start to stretch.

For the relative low cost, it's a no brainer to replace them with either an arp or Kateck rod bolt.

 

How many stock type rebuilds do you rev to or past 6800 RPM even with a mild cam... the valves usually start floating around 6500....I think with out reprograming the computer the stock revlimiter is like 6000 rpm any way.

If I was going to spend the extra $200 on the Katech rod bolts, I would just buy new H beam rods for a little more esspecially if I need to spin a motor that high. I surely won't be doing it on stock rods and pistons...

 

There's no problem spinning a motor to over 7000rpm on stock rods and pistons. The weak link in the bottom end is the rod bolts. If you don't want to upgrade them, then fine, but it's a hell of a lot easier to do it now that wait till later.

 

I just bought a set of new arp bolts from the classified section for $55. To me it just seems like good insurance even if you don't plan on revving over 6800.

 

Thats great!!! But once again way off the specific info I am looking for....

A stated Stock type application Not reving to 6K or 7K.

STOCK as in NOT modified...

 

WOW someones sensitive. To answer your question, since it's not going to spin high at all and is not modified, do a final torque rating of 85 degrees and call it a day.

I just read your comment about editing for those who can't read.... well it seems like you're the illiterate one since you have it in writing to go to 85 (an additional 10 degrees) if you are reusing rod bolts. If you are using new factory bolts go to 75 degrees.

So you'll invest in a torque angle meter, but not better rod bolts? I hope you aren't an engine builder and being paid to build this motor for someone else.

 

That is if you are reusing old bolts

 

Guess I am not the illiterate one... and sounds more like your the sensitve one... Just try reading the whole post!!!

I am well aware of the upgraded rod bolts and the extra insurance they may provide. I am also aware of the possible problems associated with them unless you have the rods out of the car so you can Properly check the rod to see if its on size. But thats NOT The information I am after...

GM recomends 15LBs on the first pass then 75 degrees on the second pass for the stock rod bolts. Its in the factory service manuals.

What I would like to know is, Has any one else seen or heard of what the artical I posted in the first Link said about going and additional 10 degrees on the second pass??? In case no one wants to click on the link and read it I will copy and paste it...

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...rod_bolts.aspx

6/1/2007
Late Model GM Rod Bolts

Is it okay to reuse connecting rod bolts on some late model GM engines?


Is it okay to reuse connecting rod bolts on some late model GM engines?

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding revised connecting rod bolt torque for 1997-2007 GM 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0L engines. This information applies to all current GEN III and IV design small block engine variations. This information should be considered any time the bolts are being installed.

Although the bolt tightening method uses the now familiar torque-turn, the bolts DO NOT need to be replaced unless they’re damaged. It has been determined additional final torque may be applied to the connecting rod bolts in the these engines.

The bolts should be tightened in a two step process, (see Chart 1) with the second step including an additional 10° turn from the original specification.

Chart 1
Application 1st Step 2nd Step
Gen III &
Gen IV 15 ft.lbs. (20 Nm) Rotate Each Bolt an additional 85°, using A Torque Angle Meter (J45059)



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chart 1 Revised connecting rod torque specs for GM 4.8, 5,3, 5.7 and 6.0L engines.

 

I was wrong, you can read, just not comprehend....

Please reread the question to the article:

Is it okay to reuse connecting rod bolts on some late model GM engines?

Ask yourself, am I reusing stock rod bolts:

Answer: YES, then go to 85 degrees on the second pass.

Answer: NO, then go to 75 degrees on the second pass.

It seemed pretty simple to me.

I'm not even going to get into why you would ever want to reuse a stock rod bolt considering they see more strees than any other bolt in your engine.

 

FWIW in the manual I just read it states 15lbs then 85 degrees. No mention of 75 degrees at all. I dont know what the extra 10 degrees really amounts to in a ft lbs figure anyway.

 

Thank you for some actuall input!!!

My thought was that they wanted to make sure you had the proper stretch on the bolt since it has already been stretched. What year is the manual you have? I am curious when they made the revision.

 

wow your quite the jackass for someone whos is asking other people for help

 

Its ok, YOU will learn to comprehend What you read some day... Keep trying.

And don't forget your helmet. Wouldn't want you hurt yourself. I am sure the short bus is a dangerous place. You can tell us all about it some other time

 

Try reading!!! I am Not asking for help. I found some new information and I asked for other peoples opinions on what I found...

 

Hey whatever makes you happy buddy. I know my intelligence level, so I'm worried about your assesment.

Cars are cake and childs play considering what I do everyday, not much mental exercise here.