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eagle crank and eagle H-beam rods?

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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Default eagle crank and eagle H-beam rods?

will this crank

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=105&catid=37

and these rods

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=699&catid=39

and these pistons

10-K398F (insert PN at www.texas-speed.com)

be ok for a 408 pushing 550RWHP N/A and a 350 shot NX direct port kit?

i guess what im asking, is will this bottom end handle 1000 crank hp? i know my setup wont be making quite that, but i want to be on the safe side.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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id post this same thread in the n2o section you will get better responses there...
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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Eagle Cranks = Machining/Balancing Nightmare, get it to a good shop to be checked and verified.

Just my personal and some friend's exp.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Eagle Cranks = Machining/Balancing Nightmare, get it to a good shop to be checked and verified.

Just my personal and some friend's exp.
I would have agreed 3-4 years ago...but now that's just not the case. Any machinist worth his weight in salt should have no problems at all!
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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My 383 is a Eagle stroker kit (crank & rods) with JE -2cc pistons and L19 rod bolts.There were no assembly issues due to poor quality control (out of tolerance).
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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I think I would put a better rod in there if I knew I was going to be turning that kind of power. What RPMs are planning on turning it up to?

The piston you chose is the same piston I am going to be running in my 347. The piston according to the woman at wiseco is made to handle a 400 shot. So there is no problems there.

I would maybe look into Howards rods that are more durable in high HP engines.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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I would go with Scat over Eagle, but that’s just me. Both cost around the same and the Scat crank is a little better on the machine shop. Eagle crank will usually run different size bearings all the way around because of the inconsistencies in the journals.
Now If you can save up another $500 you could go with a Callies crank and rods.
The Pistons should be OK, though I would check with the machine shop.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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im trying to avoid callies compstar stuff, just the fact its made overseas. but i would love to have a callies dragonslayer crank. but its booku bucks....
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
I would have agreed 3-4 years ago...but now that's just not the case. Any machinist worth his weight in salt should have no problems at all!
That maybe tru, but for any crank, have it checked. I went with a Dragon slayer for that reason on my last build, never an issue.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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I run Eagle crank and rods to 8k rpm with no issues. I have 4 seasons on them too.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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Of course you "check" the crank. Every engine should be balanced fully and Eagle/Callies/Lunati/Scat/GM cranks are no exception to that. That's assumed in this thread, IMO! The point is, Eagle is no more difficult to balance than the others mentioned.
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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agreed, i wasent asking if they need to be balanced. every rotating assembly needs to be balanced. hell, even if i put a stock short block back together, i would have it balanced.
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