Rod bolts ARP's or keep stock?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
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Rod bolts ARP's or keep stock? Im installing a 03 Chevy Silverado Truck engine 6.0L (LQ4) into my 78 T/A 2nd Gen F body the engine is butt *** stock, But will modifying with bolt on's (headers, intake, possibly heads, Cam). So Im installing a 98-02 Camaro/Firebird oil pan. While I have the oil pan removed would it be wise (added insurance) to install ARP Rod Bolts while the pan is removed?
If so what bolts P/N do I need? & Are they torqued, or torque to yield? how much torque? I dont have a stretch gauge.
If so what bolts P/N do I need? & Are they torqued, or torque to yield? how much torque? I dont have a stretch gauge.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
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I think you will find that there is still a debate whether or not to change the rod bolts without getting the rods checked/re-sized. I am about to install some arp rod bolts (234-6301) into my T/A and know of 4 or 5 people who have done the same with no problems. As for the torque or stretch method, I believe the stretch is preferred but you can also do the torque method. I believe the rod bolts are the same between the LQ4 and the LS1 but someone else can probably tell you for sure.
Here is the link to the torque/stretch information
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html
Here is the link to the torque/stretch information
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html
I would agree for the most part. You should be fine. Only time I would consider upgrading the rod bolts are if you are going with a very high revving H/C setup like up around 6800+RPM and the motor will see a lot of time there. Otherwise as stated... you'll be fine. The bolts tend to fail (pretty rare that they do) when the bottom end is spun at a very high RPM. The 01+ rod bolts also tend to fail far less than the earlier years.
However, this being said.... yes, if you are at that stage and it's an easy swap then it is very cheap insurance. You do not need to resize/check the ends if you do the bolts one at a time. Leave on torqued while you remove, reinstall and retorque the new bolt, then do the other side. By doing it this way you are leaving the cap and bearing fully torqued and seated at all times. When you remove all torque from the cap entirely is when you have problems and SHOULD get the rod ends checked.
If you planned on spinning some RPM out of the motor I would go ahead and swap them out, otherwise, just leave it as is.
However, this being said.... yes, if you are at that stage and it's an easy swap then it is very cheap insurance. You do not need to resize/check the ends if you do the bolts one at a time. Leave on torqued while you remove, reinstall and retorque the new bolt, then do the other side. By doing it this way you are leaving the cap and bearing fully torqued and seated at all times. When you remove all torque from the cap entirely is when you have problems and SHOULD get the rod ends checked.
If you planned on spinning some RPM out of the motor I would go ahead and swap them out, otherwise, just leave it as is.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2008
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Can you guy’s clear something up for me? I was told the that there is a bulletin out on the rod bolt torque, If the head of the bolt has a single dimple on it the torque is 15 ftlb + 60 degrees & If the bolt has two dimples the torque is 15 ftlb + 85 degrees does this sound correct?
And can ya recommend a good book on overhauling this engine, or is a Chilton or Haynes for the year this engine came out of be sufficient?
And can ya recommend a good book on overhauling this engine, or is a Chilton or Haynes for the year this engine came out of be sufficient?
