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H/C/I Swap...am I missing anything?

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Default H/C/I Swap...am I missing anything?

Getting ready to do a Head, Cam, and Intake swap in my garage and I don't want to find out I don't have a part I need and have to wait for it to be shipped to me.

Here is what I have:
FAST 90 combo
Torquer V.2 Cam
5.3L Heads
Roller Rockers
Hardened Pushrods
LS7 Lifters
Ported Oil Pump
Adustable Timing Chain
Highflow Fuel Rails
#38 Injectors
LS6 Valley Cover
LS6 Collant Lines
Catch Can
Underdrive Pulley
Head Gasket Set
Timing Cover Gasket
Water Pump Gasket
Valley Cover Gasket
Bolt Set
4" Silicone Tube to delete MAF and run SD

I KNOW still need the following:
Serpentine Belt (to match my Underdrive Pulley)

I think I need the following, but do I really need them?:
New Lifter Trays
Front Main Seal (75k on the motor, but I don't know what this entitles laborwise)
NGK Spark Plugs (I replaced the plugs with Bosch plugs 5k ago when I installed my LTs)
Cam Break-in Lube (can I just use motor oil during the install?)

Anything I'm missing from my lists?

PS: I did this list from memory, so I might have the part, just forgot about it.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Get the ARP's head bolts, I prefer studes but not a must. Make shore you clean out the bolt holes, from water and factory thread sealant, This is a must. And you don't need new lifter trays unless there cracked , i do the drill mod on mine , some do some don't.You will need new intake gaskets the Fast don't send them with there intake. and change front crank seal, use the cam lub,Make shore your valve springs are rated for the cam lift.New NGK plugs with new heads.Two gals.antifreeze,Make shore the parts store has a oil pressure sending unit in stock, There so easy to brake off during intake removal, Make shore when you put the MAP sensor on the fast intake to use some silicone to hold it in place.Watch to MAP seal also ,it easy to brake during removal. Change your thermostat to a 180*or 160*.Watch you piston to valve clearance, with those heads, and I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, but you use what you prefer and filter,also the stock head bolts are torque to yeild, ARP's are by FT. LBS.

Last edited by Randy WS6; Feb 9, 2009 at 08:24 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Yes to all of these:
- New Lifter Trays
- Front Main Seal
- Cam Break-in: just use motor oil during the install

And if you haven't seen this it's pretty good, shows the front the seal install:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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I used cam lube on the cam where it rides in the bearings. I tend to over do stuff and err on the side of caution. Did you get head bolts? I may have missed it on your list.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
Get the ARP's head bolts, I prefer studes but not a must. Make shore you clean out the bolt holes, from water and factory thread sealant, This is a must. And you don't need new lifter trays unless there cracked , i do the drill mod on mine , some do some don't.You will need new intake gaskets the Fast don't send them with there intake. and change front crank seal, use the cam lub,Make shore your valve springs are rated for the cam lift.New NGK plugs with new heads.Two gals.antifreeze,Make shore the parts store has a oil pressure sending unit in stock, There so easy to brake off during intake removal, Make shore when you put the MAP sensor on the fast intake to use some silicone to hold it in place.Watch to MAP seal also ,it easy to brake during removal. Change your thermostat to a 180*or 160*.Watch you piston to valve clearance, with those heads, and I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, but you use what you prefer and filter,also the stock head bolts are torque to yeild, ARP's are by FT. LBS.
1. I opt'd against the ARP Head Bolts/Studs for personal reasons.
2. I have the Intake Seals.
3. I'll do the Front Seal, I didn't realize it was that easy.
4. I just don't want to spend money on a bottle of lube I'll never use again.
5. Patriot Double Valve Springs...should be fine.
6. Fine, I'll get the plugs
7. Got the coolant.
8. I'll buy the Oil Pressure Sending unit before hand, cause knowing my luck if I buy it it won't break, but if I don't it will.
9. Yeah, I have the silicone ready.
10. I knew I'd forget something in my list...I do have a 160 thermostat.


Originally Posted by massls1guy
Yes to all of these:
- New Lifter Trays
- Front Main Seal
- Cam Break-in: just use motor oil during the install

And if you haven't seen this it's pretty good, shows the front the seal install:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
I'll do the Front Seal, I didn't realize it was that easy.

Originally Posted by Droptopws6
I used cam lube on the cam where it rides in the bearings. I tend to over do stuff and err on the side of caution. Did you get head bolts? I may have missed it on your list.
I just don't want to spend money on a bottle of lube I'll never use again.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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Never say never, lol.
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