Need less power-241 to 806 worth it?
Are you allowed to make changes in the motor? Destroker crank maybe?
By the way, I'm pretty sure that you're the first, and probably the last, person to ever make a thread on LS1tech asking how to make less power.
In searching I couldn't find any definitive posts stating how much the 241 heads were worth over the 806. The best I found was the flow chart above, but I don't know enough about that to tell if the reduction in airflow would correlate to much of a change in power.
One time I ran with it with knock sensors unplugged and the peak power numbers were under the limit but the car had terrible throttle response and felt like a dog. It was much better with the knock sensors working and a restrictor.
Next time I go to the dyno I am going to try and take a stock exhaust to see if that makes a difference.
If the 806's would cut 10 rwhp then I would do it. Would also try to find the thickest head gaskets to reduce compression. I also have a 98 model cam in there right now and I could change the cam to the later model that is less aggressive.
Yes, this is on a road racing course and is way to much fun. Check out this youtube vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUe9rBx8mYA
Show the track officials or whoever the graph that you have the weakest LS1 ever.
With the power tables the LT1 is a good package. But I think the weight savings of the Ls1 engine make a better overall package. If I can get the power level down below 280 rwhp then knocking 20 hp off shouldn't hurt my throttle response too much.
If I can get the weight down enough then going with double mufflers at the back is a great idea. I'm thinking of putting the stock y pipe on to choke down the exhuast. I don't think it really matters if you restrict a motor on the intake or the exhuast the net affect should be the same. Except I don't know the perfect exhuast size to maximize the power under the curve to keep the tq up enough. The problem is the LS1 makes such good power above 5k that knocking it down below 260 rwhp knocks my tq down too much. Would be great to tune the computer to dump fuel or pull some timing above 5k and pump up timing below 5k. It would also be much cheaper to tune the car through the computer rather than through hardware. But there are still carbed cars in the classes so they want to keep it fair.
Dyno setting are mandated and checked so everyone uses the same setting and correction factor. Though I still think your numbers would be lower on a hot humid day.
The reason to restrict power is to put a bigger group of cars together and level the playing field. That way LT1 and mustangs have close to the same power. They are also attempting to merge two classes and give the 305 TPI and 5.0 some upgrades like headers and restricting the LS1 more to hopefully put everyone at the same power levels. This way it is a drivers class and isn't just who can spend the most money on engines, suspension, brakes, etc.
Unfortunately we aren't allowed to tune the computers, it must be a stock tune. And before you go down the road of still do it, or how do they check it I'm not going to tune the computer.
Have to run exhuast manifolds, but the rest of your exhuast is unrestricted. I have a custom y pipe with cats with a 3" single exhaust without a muffler. I am thinking the exhuast flows pretty well and is hurting my torque. I would like to knock a little HP off the top end and up my torque so I am thinking of going with a stock exhaust setup.
Everyone has to use an approved dyno, Dynojet ###?, with the same settings. At nationals they have a dyno at the track and cars get tested throughout the week and winners get dynoed right after the race.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I would swap back to the later cam and put an LS1 Intake on and then go back to the stock Y pipe, that should get you in the ballpark of -20 HP.
Another thing to look into would be to install a stock early 5.3 cam.
I also have a pair of 98 model exhuast manifolds that don't flow as good. So I could put on the LS1 intake, later model truck cam, 806 heads, 98 exhuast manifolds, stock y pipe and muffler setup. The question is all of it worth it to have better throttle response or would just the intake and y pipe take care of the majority?
Also, in looking at newbie tech on here the older models had a throttle body cam that would go to WOT quicker so that could help getting on the gas and coming out of the corners. I also saw that the MAF was smaller on earlier cars.
I like to think that if I did all these things it would get below 280 rwhp without a restrictor on the intake.
And yes, this is designed to be a drivers class so it isn't whoever can spend the most on their car. Since there is only so much you can do to a car the setup, prep, and driver make all the difference rather than the size of your wallet like most racing. Also, it makes for some incredibly close racing.
This all makes it alot of fun with superclose racing. There isn't one particular car that has a much bigger advantage. Though I would say the 4th gens have an advantage on larger faster tracks and the mustangs are better on tracks with tighter corners.
Post #18 is a good way to go. I would try for a cam that would peak 310 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm (260 hp) and then hold the 260 or so hp flat to max rpm you want to run. It probably could be made to be very similar to a "stock" cam as far as duraton and lift.


