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Baking Pulley Torque ?

Old Mar 9, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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Default Baking Pulley Torque ?

I plan on baking my pulley for an hour at 200* to help slide it back onto the crank snout. Once I slide it on, should I let it cool before torquing to 240ft/lbs or can I start cranking on it right away?

Thanks.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:41 PM
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I use the bake method when I put my pully on and as long as you dont go over the 200* the timing seal wont be damaged. I only torque to 180ft #'s and the pully is set.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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And you start torquing down as soon as you get it on the crank?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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I have torqued all the ones i have done immediately and never had one move yet
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by theinstag8r
I have torqued all the ones i have done immediately and never had one move yet
Wow, slides on that far huh?
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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I usually leave my oven for making cookies

Why?

Because I use one of these:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html

Yeah, it ain't the cheapest thing in the world, but holy cow does it work well.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
I usually leave my oven for making cookies

Why?

Because I use one of these:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html

Yeah, it ain't the cheapest thing in the world, but holy cow does it work well.
Oh I know. If I had planned better, I'd have one also.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Just bustin' your ***** man

I haven't seen you on here in forever - it is good to see you are still alive and kickin'.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Just bustin' your ***** man

I haven't seen you on here in forever - it is good to see you are still alive and kickin'.
I know.

I still lurk and search over here all the time, but I haven't done much REAL work on my car in a while so I haven't been posting!

Got my cam swap almost complete.

Most of my day is spent in the California section over on LS2.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by skytower31
And you start torquing down as soon as you get it on the crank?
Yes, as soon as its on I will tap it very lightly with a rubber mallet and start to crank the old bolt in. The thing is when heating the pully you swell the metal the longer you take to sink the pully the more the crank heats up and will also swell basicly voiding the now bigger pully. One more thing I have tried is dry ice on the crank and cooking the pully. My grocery store sell bolcks of dry ice realy cheap, so I hold the dry ice on the crank for about 5 min, and then grab the hot pully and it almost slides right on. This method is not needed by any means but the pully goes right on.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 01:21 AM
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Well looks like I didn't get it on quick enough. Stock bolt won't bite and I didn't get big enough washers for the longer bolt I bought at Napa. I think it is time to just buy the 618hawk tool.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 02:33 AM
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ARP crank pulley bolt makes it a snap. It is longer than stock and comes with a big fat washer. I use it without the washer to seat the pulley, and then add the washer for final torque. It is not a torque to yield, so you can use it over and over. Plus it is 12 point and very beefy. Don't have to worry about breaking it.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 02:49 AM
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even with a pulley installer, i used the "cook" method - makes it super easy and i feel cool with cooking mits on in the garage lol
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by skytower31
Well looks like I didn't get it on quick enough. Stock bolt won't bite and I didn't get big enough washers for the longer bolt I bought at Napa. I think it is time to just buy the 618hawk tool.

u can buy threaded rod, a few nuts and a stack of washers or anything to create some gap on the rod. i think i paid like 8-9 bucks for mine total, not as pretty as hawks but does the same thing.
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