New to lq motors help!!!
#1
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Ok i have a 2001 Z28 that is starting to burn some oil and needs to be freshened up i am looking at either a lq4 or lq9 short block... i have a couple questions i just rebuild my stock ls1 heads, with new dual springs,ti. retainers, seats, seals and push rods along with a torquer v2 cam and a ls6 ported oil pump... i guess my question is can i use my stock ls1 heads on these blocks and will my oil pump, cam and ls2 timing chain be ok to use also?
sorry i am new to these motors... the reason i want to do iron is cause i want to start out with some juice maybe a 125 shot and then in the future forge it for a turbo set up and new heads
Thanks
sorry i am new to these motors... the reason i want to do iron is cause i want to start out with some juice maybe a 125 shot and then in the future forge it for a turbo set up and new heads
Thanks
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I have read that all my acc. off of the ls1 will work on the lq besides the alt is missing a third hole for a bolt but it works just fine with just the other 2 bolts... would my stock heads be choking that motor to much to make power? i would just really like to re use all my cam swap items cause they only have about 800 miles on them if that... i think i remember reading somewhere that people were using a ls6 cam in the lq, which tells me that i should be able to use my torquer if that is correct, i am more worried about the ptv clearence
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
#4
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The alternator bracket only has 1/3 holes for the bracket. There is a un-drilled/un-tapped boss for one of the holes that must be drilled and tapped to bolt the alternator up. And it will hold up just fine with the 2/3 bolts anyway simply because it actually bolts through the alternator on those 2 bolts too. I've got to drill and tap mine sometime this week to finish my swap into my 98 T/A.
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youll be fine with either, as an lq4 will save you a ton of cash most of the time.
OP-your heads will be fine on the bigger motor, just not optimal.
with the torquer cam, you should be ok if the heads have not been milled, but its always good to check ptv clearance.
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Thank you all for the info it has been really helpful... sorry this will be my first major thing i have done to my car besides the cam swap, how do i got about checking the ptv clearence? can i just turn the crank by hand with the plugs out and make sure there are no spots where the motor catches?... sorry all of my other cars in the past have just been bolt on cars no internal stuff but i would like to do this to get more experiance with cars... i hope i am not asking some dumb questions.
I know that the lq4 has less compression than the lq9 but if i do decide to use either of these motors with the heads and cam from my ls1, will i still see a boost in power since these motors are bigger than my ls1? for now i am just looking at a low mile short block and keep the stock internals until i have enough money to do forged... about how big of a shot of nitrous can i run through a stock bottom end in these motors?
And has anyone use a ls2 timing chain or a ported ls6 oil pump in these motors?
Again sorry if i am ask stupid or dumb questions i am just new to all this
I know that the lq4 has less compression than the lq9 but if i do decide to use either of these motors with the heads and cam from my ls1, will i still see a boost in power since these motors are bigger than my ls1? for now i am just looking at a low mile short block and keep the stock internals until i have enough money to do forged... about how big of a shot of nitrous can i run through a stock bottom end in these motors?
And has anyone use a ls2 timing chain or a ported ls6 oil pump in these motors?
Again sorry if i am ask stupid or dumb questions i am just new to all this
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#8
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all of those parts will work fine.
youll get a nice boost in power from the 6.0, regardless of the commpression.
ptv clearance checking is a procedure that needs to be done to make sure you have correct clearance.
just turning the motor over by hand wont cut it.
metal expands at different temperatures/forces and its possbile to make contact while running when it didnt turning it over by hand.
youll get a nice boost in power from the 6.0, regardless of the commpression.
ptv clearance checking is a procedure that needs to be done to make sure you have correct clearance.
just turning the motor over by hand wont cut it.
metal expands at different temperatures/forces and its possbile to make contact while running when it didnt turning it over by hand.
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Thanks again for the info this is really helping me on making my decision... i am still a little confused on how to check for my ptv clearence, is there a way you can measure all this before the motor is together? do i need to have a machine shop do this? or can i do it at home?
And do you guys think the stock bottom end of a lq4 or lq9 will handle a 100-150 dry shot of nitrous and still be reliable? it will only be use on the weekends at the track
And with my setup which of these short blocks would you use the lq4 or the lq9?
Thanks again for all the info!!!
And do you guys think the stock bottom end of a lq4 or lq9 will handle a 100-150 dry shot of nitrous and still be reliable? it will only be use on the weekends at the track
And with my setup which of these short blocks would you use the lq4 or the lq9?
Thanks again for all the info!!!
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LQ9 is nicest for nitrous
LQ4 is your motor for boost
or nitrous..
05+ lq4 has the good rods. Best bang for the buck motor. 06 has heavier ls2 timing chain i believe also. If not present this is a good part when throwing in a cam, but not necessary if the engine is pretty low mile.. used LQ4's are very common and cheaper than the LQ9 with the slightly higher comp. You can shave the heads for an increased comp ratio as well for another option.
You should have no problem with stock bottom end making 650+ hp so that little shot of nitrous shouldn't make it bat an eyelash.. These engines have been pushed to more than 7-800 with as little as arp rod bolts. make sure you follow up with a tune so you don't burn up a piston tho.
LQ4 is your motor for boost
or nitrous..
05+ lq4 has the good rods. Best bang for the buck motor. 06 has heavier ls2 timing chain i believe also. If not present this is a good part when throwing in a cam, but not necessary if the engine is pretty low mile.. used LQ4's are very common and cheaper than the LQ9 with the slightly higher comp. You can shave the heads for an increased comp ratio as well for another option.
You should have no problem with stock bottom end making 650+ hp so that little shot of nitrous shouldn't make it bat an eyelash.. These engines have been pushed to more than 7-800 with as little as arp rod bolts. make sure you follow up with a tune so you don't burn up a piston tho.
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Ok cool thank you all very much, i think the lq4 is the one i will be going with cause i am on a budget and i do plan on boost later on who knows when tho lol construction is kinda in the shiter right now haha
Is there anything else i should know about doing this kind of swap? since i am new to this any little tricks and tips will help... like what head gaskets to use since i am using my ls1 heads? or anything else along those lines
Thanks to everyone who chimed in and helped answer my questions!!!
Is there anything else i should know about doing this kind of swap? since i am new to this any little tricks and tips will help... like what head gaskets to use since i am using my ls1 heads? or anything else along those lines
Thanks to everyone who chimed in and helped answer my questions!!!
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You should have no problem with stock bottom end making 650+ hp so that little shot of nitrous shouldn't make it bat an eyelash.. These engines have been pushed to more than 7-800 with as little as arp rod bolts. make sure you follow up with a tune so you don't burn up a piston tho.
to make them live at that power level requires flawless tuning and a perfect fuel setup. not to mention having a plug that wont melt a hole in a stock piston.
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Actually the 04-up motors have the good rods. I got a 9K mile 04 longblock that had a cracked block so I ended up using an 03 block and put the internals out of the 04 in the 03, and it had the LS2 style rods in the 04. But the 03 had the older LS1 style rods. While I was at it I went ahead and went against alot of peoples judgement and put ARP rod bolts in. The motor has been in the car for about 2 months now and been to the track 2 times and still holds awsome oil pressure and run's very nice. Even took some trips to Gatlinburg in it as well.
On the nitrous part... if anything the 04-up LQ4/9 would hold up to nitrous better than the LS1's just for the simple fact they have better rods and they are iron block with better head gaskets. I'm getting ready to install a NX shark nozzle kit on the t/a and spray a small 100 shot on it. I have not doubt in my mind that it could hold a 200 hit if I had the fuel system to back it up.
A little advice if your working with an F-body... All my stock fuel pumps have crapped out around the 430-440 rwhp range which is good for about a 100 shot on a stock longblock LS1 with full bolt-on's. I have upgraded to a single Walbro 255 in-tank and I have made 496rwhp on a stock longblock LS1 on a 150 shot without any fuel pressure issues. The Walbro is a must if you spray a wet shot!!!
On the nitrous part... if anything the 04-up LQ4/9 would hold up to nitrous better than the LS1's just for the simple fact they have better rods and they are iron block with better head gaskets. I'm getting ready to install a NX shark nozzle kit on the t/a and spray a small 100 shot on it. I have not doubt in my mind that it could hold a 200 hit if I had the fuel system to back it up.
A little advice if your working with an F-body... All my stock fuel pumps have crapped out around the 430-440 rwhp range which is good for about a 100 shot on a stock longblock LS1 with full bolt-on's. I have upgraded to a single Walbro 255 in-tank and I have made 496rwhp on a stock longblock LS1 on a 150 shot without any fuel pressure issues. The Walbro is a must if you spray a wet shot!!!
Last edited by LSxPwrDZ; 05-06-2009 at 10:32 PM.