Yes, I've searched.
I read somewhere that it pops out with a screwdriver. I can see I'm going to booger up the cover that way. Can I use a big punch and drive it out from the back?

On re-install, I know there are special tools for installing it. Being a ghetto kind of guy, I want to get away without buying it if possible.

Any tips or tricks? Did you install it in the cover first, or after? No coating of oil on the outside, but yes on the inside, right? Also the new seal looks different than the old. It doesn't look like it has a wipe skirt like the original.

Any help would be appreciated. I'd be pissed if this thing leaks.
Thanks!

 

Take the cover off the engine, and you can knock it out with a hammer and a punch. When I did mine I pushed the seal into the cover as even as possible with my fingers and then place a 2x4 in the 3-9 position tap lightly with a mallet if you have one, then switch to 12-6 tap lightly. Keep switching the 2 directions until its seated. I rub oil on the crank shaft and on the seal, not a lot but enough so the dry metal isn't rubbing on dry rubber. Take you time getting the cover on, watch the seal and make sure one side isn't getting stuck on the crank. Also when tapping the seal in put the timing cover on a flat surface and I used a towel so I wouldn't ruin the gasket surface.

 

Thanks again, Conan!

 

 

you can do the 4" sewer pipe cap tool for installing the rear main. Thats what I used when I had to replace rear main after rebuild, works great and seats the main all the way in. I used a board the first time not realizing the dam seal actually sits recessed in the cover.