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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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Default How much would these cost....

new engine bearings? I've been following several threads and from what i see its a good thing to do when doing head/cam swap. Are these engines prone to bearing failure?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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Not unless they have been driven really hard. It all depends on how hard your engine has been run, how many miles it has on it, and if it still holds good oil pressure. If the pressure is good, and it has less than 75K, I wouldn't change them.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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what about rings, im fixing to tear down my motor to install a new cam, lifters, and oil pump. i what on the fence about ordering bearings and ring because i have been told they last quit a while. the car has 83000 miles.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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Well just to give a little example: I did a H/C on my car and decided to do ARP connecting rod bolts since i was planning to spin her a little higher. Now i had buddy helping me on my car (who is tons more knowledgeable than i am and has built several other motors but his first LS1) so I'm pretty sure we didn't **** up when we put them in. 5-6000 miles later this was the result on a 85k motor




Wiped out 2 connecting rods and my crank, i might have been able to turn them but decided on going with forged parts. Everything else was alright on the motor fortunately. Now we could of messed up when installing the connecting rod bolts and bearings moved or something or it was just time for motor to meet the maker. But if it was the bearings, i wish i would have spent the money on some new damn bearings instead of waiting 1 1/2 years for more money to rebuild a motor. Or as like the email i sent to friends said:

99 Trans Am M6: $11,300
120 horsepower over stock: approx $3500
Moser 9-inch rear end: $2400
Rebuilt transmission with upgraded internals: $1264
Koni SA shocks all 4 corners: $800


New rod bearings: Priceless (or around $66)

p.s. For a counterpoint, I did drive my car pretty hard and I don't regret one minute of the fun i had doing it. When the motor went, i was doing 130+mph and had made a trip that would normally take 20mins into a 10min trip.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Sube
Well just to give a little example: I did a H/C on my car and decided to do ARP connecting rod bolts since i was planning to spin her a little higher. Now i had buddy helping me on my car (who is tons more knowledgeable than i am and has built several other motors but his first LS1) so I'm pretty sure we didn't **** up when we put them in. 5-6000 miles later this was the result on a 85k motor




Wiped out 2 connecting rods and my crank, i might have been able to turn them but decided on going with forged parts. Everything else was alright on the motor fortunately. Now we could of messed up when installing the connecting rod bolts and bearings moved or something or it was just time for motor to meet the maker. But if it was the bearings, i wish i would have spent the money on some new damn bearings instead of waiting 1 1/2 years for more money to rebuild a motor. Or as like the email i sent to friends said:

99 Trans Am M6: $11,300
120 horsepower over stock: approx $3500
Moser 9-inch rear end: $2400
Rebuilt transmission with upgraded internals: $1264
Koni SA shocks all 4 corners: $800


New rod bearings: Priceless (or around $66)

p.s. For a counterpoint, I did drive my car pretty hard and I don't regret one minute of the fun i had doing it. When the motor went, i was doing 130+mph and had made a trip that would normally take 20mins into a 10min trip.
I have read in here that only Katech rod bolts can be installed without having the rods resized. I don't know how true it is, but from the looks of your motor, I would say it's probably correct.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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anyone know how true that ^^^ is??

Im about to install some arp's into my rods.
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