crank bolt problem
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From: Riverside/Los Angeles, Ca
crank bolt problem the old bolt is on the left and the 1' longer one is on the right
the old bolt is too short to catch the threads in the crank to try and seat the harmonic balancer on the crank, the new bolt can catch it but there is no skirt to go against the harmonic balancer to pull it on..
I tried using a block of wood to push it on, but i don't want to hit it too hard and **** up something
What should i do
the old bolt is too short to catch the threads in the crank to try and seat the harmonic balancer on the crank, the new bolt can catch it but there is no skirt to go against the harmonic balancer to pull it on..
I tried using a block of wood to push it on, but i don't want to hit it too hard and **** up something
What should i do
Get a threaded rod, the same size and pitch. Some nuts and washers. Get the pully basically started. The with a breaker bar and either having the trans locked turn it on.
Ive done this on LT1's and LS1's with awesome success. McMasters online can provide the rod, cut down to something that is long enough to bottom out and have at least enough to get a socket on there.
The more threads you have the stronger it will hold.
Ive done this on LT1's and LS1's with awesome success. McMasters online can provide the rod, cut down to something that is long enough to bottom out and have at least enough to get a socket on there.
The more threads you have the stronger it will hold.
Using a stud (allthread), and lubed washers under the nut to pull it on is the best method, as you do not put nearly as much stress on the threads in the crank.
I was unable to find any allthread that was the correct thread when I did my pulley swap, so I took a stock bolt, cut the head off, and welded a strong bolt to the end that I cut the head off of. Threaded the new longer bolt into the crank and pulled the blancer on about 1/8-3/16th of an inch at a time. I would pull the bolt out, and add washers between the new head and the blancer, until it was pulled all the way on.
I was unable to find any allthread that was the correct thread when I did my pulley swap, so I took a stock bolt, cut the head off, and welded a strong bolt to the end that I cut the head off of. Threaded the new longer bolt into the crank and pulled the blancer on about 1/8-3/16th of an inch at a time. I would pull the bolt out, and add washers between the new head and the blancer, until it was pulled all the way on.
Everyone i have ever installed i heated in the oven to 250 degrees for about 40 minutes, then i put on oven mits and tapped the crank pulley on with a hammer and block of wood (2x4) about 3/4-7/8 of the way and used the old stock bolt to pull it on the rest of the way. 250 degrees is NOT enough heat to damage the rubber harmoics inside of the balancer your balancer comes close to reaching these temperatures once a warm engien is shut off and heat soaks. You could probably even go 300 degrees.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Riverside/Los Angeles, Ca
Everyone i have ever installed i heated in the oven to 250 degrees for about 40 minutes, then i put on oven mits and tapped the crank pulley on with a hammer and block of wood (2x4) about 3/4-7/8 of the way and used the old stock bolt to pull it on the rest of the way. 250 degrees is NOT enough heat to damage the rubber harmoics inside of the balancer your balancer comes close to reaching these temperatures once a warm engien is shut off and heat soaks. You could probably even go 300 degrees.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Amarillo, Tx
I had the same problem when I first put on my ud pulley i used the wood method also, took forever. I tried to find the threaded rod first, but no one had it. When I did my cam swap I wised up and bought the ARP bolt, which had the spacer to pull it on. Took about 5 mins to put the pulley on. Def worth the $20 and can get it from a lot of vendors on here.
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Using a stud (allthread), and lubed washers under the nut to pull it on is the best method, as you do not put nearly as much stress on the threads in the crank.
I was unable to find any allthread that was the correct thread when I did my pulley swap, so I took a stock bolt, cut the head off, and welded a strong bolt to the end that I cut the head off of. Threaded the new longer bolt into the crank and pulled the blancer on about 1/8-3/16th of an inch at a time. I would pull the bolt out, and add washers between the new head and the blancer, until it was pulled all the way on.
I was unable to find any allthread that was the correct thread when I did my pulley swap, so I took a stock bolt, cut the head off, and welded a strong bolt to the end that I cut the head off of. Threaded the new longer bolt into the crank and pulled the blancer on about 1/8-3/16th of an inch at a time. I would pull the bolt out, and add washers between the new head and the blancer, until it was pulled all the way on.
