installed new cam.. have question
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installed new cam.. have question
Installed a new cam, had my buddy chuck who used to be with HPE get it to idle (thanks chuck!) but when i go to drive it the engine wont spin over 5900, even though its making a lot of power, it kinda bogs...
my question may seem silly as the car isnt even tuned, has a bad temp sensor and bad o2 sensor, but if i got the cam one tooth off, would the car still idle and run? i lined the dots up to where i thought would be good...
my question may seem silly as the car isnt even tuned, has a bad temp sensor and bad o2 sensor, but if i got the cam one tooth off, would the car still idle and run? i lined the dots up to where i thought would be good...
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Installed a new cam, had my buddy chuck who used to be with HPE get it to idle (thanks chuck!) but when i go to drive it the engine wont spin over 5900, even though its making a lot of power, it kinda bogs...
my question may seem silly as the car isnt even tuned, has a bad temp sensor and bad o2 sensor, but if i got the cam one tooth off, would the car still idle and run? i lined the dots up to where i thought would be good...
my question may seem silly as the car isnt even tuned, has a bad temp sensor and bad o2 sensor, but if i got the cam one tooth off, would the car still idle and run? i lined the dots up to where i thought would be good...
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Not 100% with the temp gauge but the o2's are takin out of loop once you go WOT.. This would only affect the car during regular driving. If the cam was one tooth off it would make a difference. The cam timing could be to advanced causing the car to make a ton of low end power but no top end power. This should be check before serious valve train damage occurs. Good luck with the car.
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If the car isn't tuned properly this is the cause of why the motor won't spin over 5900rpm. Your fuel map is still set to stock settings causing you to run out of fuel on the top rpm range..
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I would think that with a cam that size you would have issues if the cam was a tooth off!!! lol I thought you where using allot smaller cam..
If the car isn't tuned properly this is the cause of why the motor won't spin over 5900rpm. Your fuel map is still set to stock settings causing you to run out of fuel on the top rpm range..
If the car isn't tuned properly this is the cause of why the motor won't spin over 5900rpm. Your fuel map is still set to stock settings causing you to run out of fuel on the top rpm range..
On a side note, for all you nay sayers about a cam this big, the drivability is amazing.
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You will def. know for sure when you go to tune the car.. My cam is allot smaller than yours and I had to put 32lb SVO injecters and the racetronics fuel pump to get the proper fuel to the motor..
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i am thinking that maybe i have a fuel problem as i only have a stock fuel pump and with that cam and supporting mods i should make 475 fly hp.
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That is a fairly large cam. What was the piston to valve clearance measured?
Reason I ask is I was told the same thing about my setup....232/236 .595/.578 113+3 cam & TFS 215's milled to 61cc. My PTV measured was only .040 on intake valve at about 10 degrees ATDC!!
Reason I ask is I was told the same thing about my setup....232/236 .595/.578 113+3 cam & TFS 215's milled to 61cc. My PTV measured was only .040 on intake valve at about 10 degrees ATDC!!
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talked to chuck, chuck said since my engine coolant temp sensor says -30 degrees thats my problem.... so its throwing crap for fuel, he said if it was off by one tooth my car wouldnt run, period.... on a side note, i bet my huge camed car idles better than your stock camed car
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if it still reads -30, and your upper raditor hose feels hot from the coolant circulating inside, then yah, its your sensor.
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could be a bad coolant temp sensor, but i'll bet you have an air pocket in the engine. take off the upper radiator hose at the upper radiator outlet. pour coolant/water down the hose into the engine until it fills the engine and hose all the way up, and coolant starts pouring out of the radiator. now hook that hose back up and your cooling system should be primed.
if it still reads -30, and your upper raditor hose feels hot from the coolant circulating inside, then yah, its your sensor.
if it still reads -30, and your upper raditor hose feels hot from the coolant circulating inside, then yah, its your sensor.
also - i am running stock injectors, according to HPE stock fuel system can support 475 fly hp
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hey bro i'm in hawaii too. what area you live? i liv ein Kailua. as for injuectors? if you are still on the stock 853s then stock should be fine. i made 420 hp with my stock fuel system 2000 Trans Am through a set of 241s. as soon as i bolted on the CNC'd/milled 243s then i was at 105% duty cycle and had to go to 36 lb/hr FAST injectors and Racetronix fruel system. i would suggest you get your sensor problem worked out first though.
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I live on the big island, and havent put heads yet, but have 36lb injectors laying around, just need the fuel system which i will get when i need it