I'm going to purchase the TR 224, .581 114LSA Cam. Should I replace my springs/retainers? If so, which ones? Please keep in mind, I only want to do this once (if possible). Therefore, quality is more important than price. Thanks

 

you should replace at least the springs and get hardened pushrods too. you could go with comp cams 918's for springs and whatever you want to spend for pushrods. usually around 120 for rods. titanium retainers are kind of pricey though.

 

A true TR224 is a .563, not .581. FYI.

 

maybe he's talking about a comps grind

and you WILL need new springs at bear minum. with your cam specs comps 918's w/ tit. retainers would be fine. i had rev duals with tit. retainers and hardened pushrods with my 230, but i switched to manleys and tit. retainers.

 

Actually the TR224 on 114 is a .561 and the 112 is .563 I went the cheap route and only replaced the springs and rods. I went with comp 918's and TR CM hardend pushrods

 

I believe Thunder was selling a high lift version of the 224, Im sure Jason99TA would know.

I would go with the 918's, Manley's or the new Crane doubles as well as hardened pushrods. Best bet is to buy one of Thunder's cam packages. I loved the 224 112 I had in my TA.

 

My TR224 is a .562/.563 114

 

oops my bad, I meant .561. I really need to start proof reading my threads

 

I decided for my TR224 to get dual-springs. But keep the stock pushrods.

I would rather have them bend then something else.

And my Cam is a 224/224/ 563/563 114

 

I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd at the track twice now, once with the TR224 (a few weeks ago) and once (tonight) with the TR230. I installed the TR230 this past weekend, and inspected the pushrods from my previous mis-hap, all the pushrods were as straight as they could be. These are Thunder Racing's hardened pushrods by the way. After tonight, havent pulled the pushrods yet, but made a few more passes, and the car ran strong, no extra ticking noise comming from under the hood, there fine...

btw, I had the TR224 on a 114lsa, and the specs were .564/.563 lift :dunno: maybe a mis-print on the web site?

 

Yes your harden pushrods don't bend as easy. But that means something else will bend. There is always a weak link.

And to me, its cheaper to change the pushrods.

 

Yeah strangely enough, the Thunder website says the TR224 114 has a 0.561 lift and the TR224 112 0.563. Yet my TR224 114 came with a 0.563 lift. Two thousandths of an inch isn't going to make a performance difference, and I believe each cam is ground a little different, i.e. the tolerance isn't that tight anyway. I even heard you could ask them for one that happens to be on the low side or the high side and they will sort through them for no extra charge. I think they actually get a few back from the grinder that are too low to sell, so if you wanted one that would be easier on springs, just ask them.

 

918 springs,ti.retainers and Comp pushrods on my TR 224 cam.I rev this to 67/6800 rpm.

 

Interesting way to look at it. If the pushrods didn't bend, what would?

Thanks,
Josh

 

I would think your vlavles were next in line. I don't know what the chances are of doing that with this cam though. Just make sure you atleast have some good springs (918's)

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh

Interesting way to look at it. If the pushrods didn't bend, what would?

Valves would be the next thing to bend. Cheaper to change out the rods than the valves.

 

If your valvetrain is strong enough, such as good springs and pushrods then you should bend anything on just a missed shift. The reason so many stockers bend isn't really the fault of the pushrods just the crappy stock springs allowing the valves to float.

 

Yep, as Paul said. Good springs are a must.

 

Same here. Rev limiter set to 6750 and I've bounced off it with no problems. If you use stock pushrods with a fast ramp cam like this you are asking for trouble IMO. Most people that miss a shift bend valves no mater what pushrods they have anyway.

 

When you mechanically over-rev the motor by accidentally going from 3rd - 2nd or 2nd - 1st, then you may spin the motor to 7000, 7500, 8500rpm's who knows just depends on how quick you get out of the gas. At that point your majorly floating the valves and you can get piston to valve contact......and that's going to bend valves or even hardened pushrods.