I went the cheap route and only replaced the springs and rods. I went with comp 918's and TR CM hardend pushrods 
TR 224 Cam users question
TR 224 Cam users question I'm going to purchase the TR 224, .581 114LSA Cam. Should I replace my springs/retainers? If so, which ones? Please keep in mind, I only want to do this once (if possible). Therefore, quality is more important than price. Thanks 
you should replace at least the springs and get hardened pushrods too. you could go with comp cams 918's for springs and whatever you want to spend for pushrods. usually around 120 for rods. titanium retainers are kind of pricey though.
Originally Posted by Viper
A true TR224 is a .563, not .581. FYI.
and you WILL need new springs at bear minum. with your cam specs comps 918's w/ tit. retainers would be fine. i had rev duals with tit. retainers and hardened pushrods with my 230, but i switched to manleys and tit. retainers.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Southern California
I believe Thunder was selling a high lift version of the 224, Im sure Jason99TA would know.
I would go with the 918's, Manley's or the new Crane doubles as well as hardened pushrods. Best bet is to buy one of Thunder's cam packages. I loved the 224 112 I had in my TA.
I would go with the 918's, Manley's or the new Crane doubles as well as hardened pushrods. Best bet is to buy one of Thunder's cam packages. I loved the 224 112 I had in my TA.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 596
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Ed LS1 Vert
I decided for my TR224 to get dual-springs. But keep the stock pushrods.
I would rather have them bend then something else.
And my Cam is a 224/224/ 563/563 114
I would rather have them bend then something else.
And my Cam is a 224/224/ 563/563 114
btw, I had the TR224 on a 114lsa, and the specs were .564/.563 lift :dunno: maybe a mis-print on the web site?
Yeah strangely enough, the Thunder website says the TR224 114 has a 0.561 lift and the TR224 112 0.563. Yet my TR224 114 came with a 0.563 lift. Two thousandths of an inch isn't going to make a performance difference, and I believe each cam is ground a little different, i.e. the tolerance isn't that tight anyway. I even heard you could ask them for one that happens to be on the low side or the high side and they will sort through them for no extra charge. I think they actually get a few back from the grinder that are too low to sell, so if you wanted one that would be easier on springs, just ask them.
Originally Posted by Ed LS1 Vert
I decided for my TR224 to get dual-springs. But keep the stock pushrods.
I would rather have them bend then something else.
And my Cam is a 224/224/ 563/563 114
I would rather have them bend then something else.
And my Cam is a 224/224/ 563/563 114
Thanks,
Josh
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 596
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by Josh
Interesting way to look at it. If the pushrods didn't bend, what would?
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Originally Posted by Josh
Interesting way to look at it. If the pushrods didn't bend, what would?
Originally Posted by Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Valves would be the next thing to bend. Cheaper to change out the rods than the valves.
If your valvetrain is strong enough, such as good springs and pushrods then you should bend anything on just a missed shift. The reason so many stockers bend isn't really the fault of the pushrods just the crappy stock springs allowing the valves to float.
Originally Posted by jfm
918 springs,ti.retainers and Comp pushrods on my TR 224 cam.I rev this to 67/6800 rpm.
When you mechanically over-rev the motor by accidentally going from 3rd - 2nd or 2nd - 1st, then you may spin the motor to 7000, 7500, 8500rpm's who knows just depends on how quick you get out of the gas. At that point your majorly floating the valves and you can get piston to valve contact......and that's going to bend valves or even hardened pushrods.