Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Colonel Please give your wisdom.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-07-2003, 01:41 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Texas_WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Odessa, Texas
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Question Colonel Please give your wisdom.

Anyone can way in on this, I am hopping to get plenty of input from everyone including THE COLONEL. That maybe miss spelled, sorry.

I would like your input on the best possible cam for what I plan to do. Here is the goal.
Start off with the stock 5.7L engine. I want to choose a cam that will work good with NO2, and or Turbo(or ATI Procharger). I plan on headers if I do not do the turbo. I want the cam to not kill my fuel milage since I drive this car every were. I plan on buying LS1 Edit or a Diablo Preditor.

Eventually I plan on building a 6.0L cast iron block with the late model 6.0L heads and maybe changing the crank out for a 4" stroker one.

So I would like to try and pic a cam that will work best for both the 5.7L and the 6.0L so I don't have to waist the money on two different cams.

I am replacing the converter in the car soon with a 3500 stall and I am probly going to stick with the 3.73 gears I have. I would like to shoot for 400+ rwhp at my elevation which would mean I would need to be able to make about 450rwhp at sea level. This is without the NO2 or the Forced Induction. Any advise or do you think this is going to be impossible to do with basicaly cam, headers, injectors, fuel pump, and tunning?
Old 11-07-2003, 03:22 PM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
 
Colonel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Troy, AL
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

How smooth would you like the idle?
At what RPM do you want it to idle?
How high do you want to spin the engine?
What is the bore size of the 6.0 block?
How important is valve spring longevity to you?
LS6 intake manifold?

I'm going to assume a free flowing exhaust system w/headers and running a 150 shot of nitrous unless you state otherwise. I'm also going to assume a well ported set of stage II heads.

I'm about to leave town for the Thunder Shootout so I probably won't get back to you until at least Monday. I also have A TON of PMs backed up on me since my time has been limited lately.
Old 11-07-2003, 04:08 PM
  #3  
9 Second Club
 
Nickn20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I think there are cams that are best sutied for different setups, decide which setup you want to go with, THEN choose your cam, and heads.

the nitrous, blower cam will have similar traits. also you have to keep in mind what your compression ratio is gonna be with some ported heads as well.

nitrous is very friendly, you can run an agressive cam, high compression, just watch your knock and it will perform with any cam you choose NA, well for the LS1 market anyway.

blower, I would go with the 6.0 heads right away, to drop the compression, and it would be a smaller cam with less overlap for boost bleed off.

turbo once again lower compression, id say lower than a blower setup, and depending on the turbo setup, the cam should be selected, IE single, twin, turbo specs, that will dictate what the ideal cam would be.

also forced induction you should really think about building a motor, nitrous is cheap and fun, and will take care of that motor soon enough, why spend 10k on a forced induction setup to have it go down and you need a motor.

basically in the end, wasting money on two cams should be the least of your worries.
Old 11-07-2003, 05:25 PM
  #4  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Texas_WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Odessa, Texas
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

The 6.0L block has a stock bore of 4.00",which is most lickly were I would leave it. I would use as many parts from my existing 5.7L which is a 02 engine. So it does have the LS6 intake on it. I am not consurned with how choppy of an idle it has, as far as I am personly conserened the choppier the better, but I would like for it to still work great for driving around town as well as cruising down the Interstate at 2500 to 3000 rpm which is were I am running with the 3.73 gears at 70 to 75 mph. I don't really care how high it has to idle either. I have my rev-limiter set at 6500 rpm, and I do not want to raise it any higher then that. At want to start my shifts at 6000 and have them completed by 6300 rpm.
I have never ran a set of valve springs longer then one year on an engine with an agressive cam, so I have no problem changings valve springs every 40k miles, which is what I normaly drive in a year. If I have to change them twice a year, thats cool too, but no more then that. So a minimal of 20k miles would be the minimal time on the spring life that I would except.

Unfortunatly, I am not looking to do any port work on the heads at this time. I do plan on doing that, but not until the very end. I am waiting on the aftermarket world to come out with a few more intake manifold options before I have port work done. I have a gentalman that I have had outstanding results in the past with, and I will continue to use him. I will probly pick up a set of stock late model 6.0L heads laying around here and bring them to him with the manifold I eventualy choose. It always seems to be more productive when you have the head work done with the manifold. That way he can make the two work best together.

As far as the Forced induction goes, I am about 80% positive I am going to build a single turbo system. Thats why I want to go with the bigg chamber heads. But, it will not be until this summer at the earliest that the turbo kit will be together. So I am looking for a cam choice that will work perfectly with the turbo, but will still work good without it until I have the kit together. The main thing I was trying to avoid is having to change cam when I go from the 5.7L block to the 6.0L block.

What I am gunning for is I have two freinds that have 03 Cobra's. One changed the pully on his blower and made 380 rwhp at 3200' elevation and the other changed the same pully as well as throttle body and air filter system. He is making 390 rwhp here which comes out to be 440 rwhp at sea level. Their torque curves were flat from 2500 to 5000 rpm. And when I say flat I mean within 5 lbs of torque. The latter pulled 390 rwtq from 2500 to 5252 rpm!!!! I was amazed!!!! So I want to be able to do the same if not a slight bit better. Thats what I am looking for before the turbo install and without my NO2.

So anyone who has any advise on what to do to get to that point, please tell me.

Thanks guys.
Old 11-07-2003, 08:38 PM
  #5  
9 Second Club
 
Nickn20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,445
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

well the new intakes will also make your cam selection change, most will say you don't need to go too agressive with a turbo setup, especially since you don't want to rev higher than 6500? I would talk to some shops especially ford ones that specialize in turbo setups, yes I know the dark side. more than likely with a good flowing intake, and a single turbo, a single pattern wide LSA cam will do the trick, or a slight standard split, depending on how big the turbo is.

it sounds like you are leaning towards rob raymers kit? you have seen the TQ curves that kit produces right?
Old 11-08-2003, 10:57 AM
  #6  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Texas_WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Odessa, Texas
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Rob with QMP? Yes I have been checking into the QMP kit pretty hard. Thats basicaly what I am looking for.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:29 AM.