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is something wrong with my valves? pics

Old Jun 7, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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I am adding some 243's (stock) from a '05 GTO, new caddie lifters, and a cam (yet to be decided) along with some misc. stuff to my 2000 T/A. I pulled the valves and cleaned the 243's when I looked at a couple of the exhaust valves and this is what I saw: this is on the exhaust only. It looks like the tips are cracked.



This what 4 of the valves look like. 1 on one head and 3 on the other. Are they still good? what do I do?



Do I get new exhaust valves? I also need new valve guide seals for 243's what is the part#?
Thanks
Attached Thumbnails is something wrong with my valves? pics-cimg2561.jpg   is something wrong with my valves? pics-cimg2562.jpg  
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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see the tip of the valve? can I use them?
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 11:16 PM
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Its hard to tell on my computer but if thats a crack around the stem do not reuse them. Valves are too cheap to risk it. Get you some new ones and inspect the rest of them closely.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 03:07 AM
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That looks like retainer imprint, not crack, (difficult to say just by pic)

Also when you removed the valves did you mark them to go back in the same way they came out?
If not, time for a new valve job.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 06:36 AM
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Thanks for the replies! Yes I did mark them. I can feel the "crack" with my finger nail. If i did replace the "cracked" ones should I replace all of the valves or just the (4) "cracked" ones?

Thanks again
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Probably not cracked, but rather a slight groove where the keeper rests.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 02:03 PM
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If you're really worried, you could replace all of the valves. If you ask me, it's cheap peace of mind. Valves really aren't that expensive, I think when I priced out some new valves for my heads as a just-incase it was ~$200 for the new valves. That's all 16 of them.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 00SS6spd
If you're really worried, you could replace all of the valves. If you ask me, it's cheap peace of mind. Valves really aren't that expensive, I think when I priced out some new valves for my heads as a just-incase it was ~$200 for the new valves. That's all 16 of them.
WOW! where did you price them? Every where I've looked they are between $15-$18 per valve and the exhuast is a different price than the intake.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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Looks like the hardened tip. Doesn't look like it is really damaged but I'd probably get some new valves.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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That's normal and you will see it on new valves as well. Mine are just like that. I believe the top of the stem is welded in place, that is the seam.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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the end of the stem is hardened, so that it doesnt mushroom over with the rocker arm pushing on it. (wow looks like i made that sound like a stoner joke lol)
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by after dark
WOW! where did you price them? Every where I've looked they are between $15-$18 per valve and the exhuast is a different price than the intake.
Here you go man... http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=5832

Thunder Racing has them too http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...ories&pcid=158 But they're more expensive on there.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 00SS6spd
Here you go man... http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=5832

Thunder Racing has them too http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...ories&pcid=158 But they're more expensive on there.
thanks! has anyone really used these? and these will work in place of stock valves on a stock head? Are they the same length and diameter? thanks for all the other replies. I looked at the other valves and they are not like that, only the 4 are that way.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Default Valves

If you're looking for quality valves at affordable prices REV (Race Engine Valves) offers a quality street/strip stainless steel valve. www.revvalves.com
Patriot Performance also offers stainless steel valves at an affordable price. I've used both.

Last edited by coulterracn; Jun 9, 2009 at 09:53 AM. Reason: to add website
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by after dark
thanks! has anyone really used these? and these will work in place of stock valves on a stock head? Are they the same length and diameter? thanks for all the other replies. I looked at the other valves and they are not like that, only the 4 are that way.
So if you are not using them, what are you going to do with them?

PS: Here is a stock GM valve.


Last edited by vettenuts; Jun 9, 2009 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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just get new valves better safe then sorry!!
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
So if you are not using them, what are you going to do with them?

PS: Here is a stock GM valve.

holy crap! mine don't look like that, but I guess if yours are that way and you are using them, them I guess mine are okay...When I took the head apart, I used a deep 3/4" socket and rubber mallet to remove the keepers. I thought because on some of them, only one keeper would jump out and the other would lodge in sidways, I did that to the top of the valve.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:14 PM
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its am impression left from the keeper! All GM valves that ive looked at look this way.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by after dark
holy crap! mine don't look like that, but I guess if yours are that way and you are using them, them I guess mine are okay...When I took the head apart, I used a deep 3/4" socket and rubber mallet to remove the keepers. I thought because on some of them, only one keeper would jump out and the other would lodge in sidways, I did that to the top of the valve.
The top piece in the photo is welded in place, the seam is the joint. My photo is one of many of my stock valves from the stock setup as removed when I cleaned up the heads. On some valves it was less evident then others.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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Run 'em!! It's normal. Mine are the same way.........
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