Vacuum issues because of Cam?
Vacuum issues because of Cam? Well I have a 2000 Z28 with MS3 cam, and obviously i know cars with cams or decent sized ones generally have vacuum issues well i need to know what i can do to do to solve this problem because the car pushes right through the brakes and its hard for me to bring the car up on the converter to launch. Let me know what you guys suggest to get the car some vacuum. Also when i do my burnout, when i get finished and roll out of it the rpms want to drop below idle and the acts like it wants to die so i have to give the car a little gas. So my question is could this be a vacuum issue as well, or is it a tuning issue. The car has been professionly tuned but with some of the issues i am encountering i am beginning to question the quality of work the tuner does. Let me know what you guys think or suggest. Thanks.
no i haven't, I was just curious if this is a common problem or what. also the air pump setup was removed and i don't know if anything to do with this could cause an issue i mean it was deleted from the tune but i didn't know if i could cause a vacuum issue because the air pump is still in the car but the hoses are disconnected and i put block off plates on the headers of course though. Im just new to the cam car thing and since i payed very good money to have the car worked on i figured it would be right when i got the car back but, i guess you live and learn.
you are not the only one with this problem, I have read several lately with this issue.
I would try getting your tuner in your car, and taking him for a ride trying to duplicate your problem. Other people were also saying if they came up to a light and had to stop quickly it would do the same thing....does that apply for you also? Just curious
I would try getting your tuner in your car, and taking him for a ride trying to duplicate your problem. Other people were also saying if they came up to a light and had to stop quickly it would do the same thing....does that apply for you also? Just curious
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Get a reading on your manifold vacuum. Easy and that will tell the story.
As for the car dying and such, yes the tuner needs to work on it more.
If manifold vacuum is low and there are no leaks, you can get a vacuum canister for the brakes.
And for not being able to hold stall, first take care of the brakes and then see how it goes.
One of the first thing I did was to change the rubber brake lines for Earl stainless lines all around. It gets rid of that mushy feeling that partly is attributed to swelling of tired rubber lines.
As for the car dying and such, yes the tuner needs to work on it more.
If manifold vacuum is low and there are no leaks, you can get a vacuum canister for the brakes.
And for not being able to hold stall, first take care of the brakes and then see how it goes.
One of the first thing I did was to change the rubber brake lines for Earl stainless lines all around. It gets rid of that mushy feeling that partly is attributed to swelling of tired rubber lines.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
