rod bolt question
You do realize that if you try to resize these new cracked style rods that you will have to take so much material off just to get the surface smooth that it will change the length of the rod dont you? And if i recall almost any machine shop does not prefer to try and resize the powdered metal rods anyway.
On a normal machined cap, its not much of a problem to parallel the surface and hone it out...but nothing about the mating surface on the LS rods = smooth.
On a normal machined cap, its not much of a problem to parallel the surface and hone it out...but nothing about the mating surface on the LS rods = smooth.
You actually install the bolts, torque them, and hone about .002" out to get a round, concentric bore again. Clevite makes a .002" oversized O.D. "P" bearing for just such an operation (CB 1776P). Most shops will charge about $75 to do this.
well then me and you are talking about 2 different things.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
well then me and you are talking about 2 different things.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
Like I said, I've seen them out-of-round over .001" with ARP bolts, but not .002". My point is that you don't resize these rods like you would the old school stuff. You don't cut the parting surfaces. I know that's not the first time I've explained that on this forum, and I'm sure it's not the last. Arguing whether or not it's a viable option is more based on the application.
i think your not understanding how these rods are resized. you dont smooth the parting surface, you leave it alone and hone the rod out .010 at max, and install a larger OD bearing with stock ID. that is how you resize a cracked PM rod.
well then me and you are talking about 2 different things.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
why resize the old rods when new ones will come with those bolts, be forged and just as affordable. (scat)? they do come in a 6100 for either floating or pressed pins. this is all assuming that the rods will ONLY be out by that much.
again ask any machine shop to machine a PM rod...they dont like it. i know a few around here that dont like it.
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Verdad Gallardo Ok. Cost is never effective in that way. I was talking about paralleling the caps. i did state that. i have had it done both ways. but it did not cost anywhere near $75. it was $40 per rod. this was on a V6. math says that is $240. maybe i got taken....but anyway, thats almost close to those scat rods. and the eagle rods may be that way, but i have not seen a scat set recently that was that messed up. usually the lesser expensive rods to lack a little fit and finish yes, but for the price, it is really to be expected. I know that people usually go to 6.125 rods, but i still do sell a descent amount of the 6.100 scats as well.
we are not telling the op to take out the rods and perform all that machine work, we are just warning him that it takes allot of work to do it properly. yes it makes sense to throw in forged rods if you are pulling the motor out, but do not think he is going that route.
i think you are misinformed. why don't you call up a good engine builder and tell him that you want to change your rod bolts with the motor still in car and not perform any machine work to the rods. don't forget to mention that the new rod bolts have a higher torque spec then the factory ones.
i think you are misinformed. why don't you call up a good engine builder and tell him that you want to change your rod bolts with the motor still in car and not perform any machine work to the rods. don't forget to mention that the new rod bolts have a higher torque spec then the factory ones.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
I'm a little confused here but how can replacing the rod bolts change how round the big end is?
The replacement bolts are torqued up to the same specs as the original bolts. So the clamping force is the same. Their advantage as I see it is they are a stronger bolt and less likely to break under more severe loads.
I think it's more likely that the rod went out of round due to the reciprocating forces rather than the change of rod bolts. Or perhaps the simple fact of loosening and tightening the bolt.
cheers
Michael
The replacement bolts are torqued up to the same specs as the original bolts. So the clamping force is the same. Their advantage as I see it is they are a stronger bolt and less likely to break under more severe loads.
I think it's more likely that the rod went out of round due to the reciprocating forces rather than the change of rod bolts. Or perhaps the simple fact of loosening and tightening the bolt.
cheers
Michael
Ok. Cost is never effective in that way. I was talking about paralleling the caps. i did state that. i have had it done both ways. but it did not cost anywhere near $75. it was $40 per rod. this was on a V6. math says that is $240. maybe i got taken....but anyway, thats almost close to those scat rods. and the eagle rods may be that way, but i have not seen a scat set recently that was that messed up. usually the lesser expensive rods to lack a little fit and finish yes, but for the price, it is really to be expected. I know that people usually go to 6.125 rods, but i still do sell a descent amount of the 6.100 scats as well.
You do realize that if you try to resize these new cracked style rods that you will have to take so much material off just to get the surface smooth that it will change the length of the rod dont you? And if i recall almost any machine shop does not prefer to try and resize the powdered metal rods anyway.
I'm a little confused here but how can replacing the rod bolts change how round the big end is?
The replacement bolts are torqued up to the same specs as the original bolts. So the clamping force is the same. Their advantage as I see it is they are a stronger bolt and less likely to break under more severe loads.
I think it's more likely that the rod went out of round due to the reciprocating forces rather than the change of rod bolts. Or perhaps the simple fact of loosening and tightening the bolt.
cheers
Michael
The replacement bolts are torqued up to the same specs as the original bolts. So the clamping force is the same. Their advantage as I see it is they are a stronger bolt and less likely to break under more severe loads.
I think it's more likely that the rod went out of round due to the reciprocating forces rather than the change of rod bolts. Or perhaps the simple fact of loosening and tightening the bolt.
cheers
Michael
