Actually you're right, aluminum won't rust, but it does corrode. Fluid Film will effectively stop any corrosion from occurring. To go a bit further, Fluid Film will protect ALL metals from corrosion, and will stop or prevent pitting in chrome.

 

Aluminum will form a thin clear/grayish aluminum oxide when it corrodes which blocks any further corrosion from occurring. Of course most of us don't leave a bare aluminum block sitting around in an environment that promotes corrosion either so regardless it's not an issue. Now an iron block is a different story.

 

Aww, just use Fluid Film so I can keep the boss happy.

 

Dude I finished my head swap over the winter and I used 3M Roloc disc on a electric drill. You can be done in 30 minutes with this method. Be sure to use the yellow disc (although i haven't tried the white one) I didn't realize that the green one was for steel and i used it on accident to my LS1 but 1800+ miles later and drag strip runs show that you can't go wrong with a graphite gasket. Moral of the story, don't freak out too much over which pad, just make sure it's safe for aluminum and if your pressed for time, a machine method is fastest of course.

 

You guys are working too hard

Get yourself a can of gasket remover from the auto parts store, and a non-metallic scotch pad. The gasket remover will literally melt that stuff right off. It usually takes me about 20 minutes to clean both sides of the deck using this method, unless it's a graphite head gasket car. Then it takes a little longer.

 

I use a razor blade and wax and grease remover...

 

I use a scotch pad and some MEK. Does the trick. When I have to do any scraping, I use a plastic window scraper or phenolic so I don't dig into the aluminum.

 

I got an iron block, don't have to worry bout that