Thinking about a bigger cam....
The block is cast iron and bored .020 over with flat top, two valve relief Forged Mahle performance pistons and file to fit rings. The crank is factory GM Std. mains Std. rods. The engine has Forged SCAT 6.125 I-Beam performance rods with ARP Rod Bolts. The rotating assembly has been balanced. The compression ratio is 10.3:1. The camshaft is a custom ground COMP CAMS with a lift of .581/.581 with the duration at .050 at .220/.220 and the lobe sep. is 114. The cylinder heads are CNC ported 317 casting GM heads and have a competition 3 angle valve job with bronze bullet guide liners. It has Ferrea Racing Intake and Exhaust super flow valves. The intake valves are .020 larger than stock. It has COMP CAMS 918 Beehive valve springs with COMP Retainers and locks. The pushrods are P.E.P performance chromoly - .050 pushrods. It has a Cloyes Hex-A-Just timing set.
My question is if I change the cam, will I have to change the springs that are currently in it. Also, I want it to be a little more choppy but I don't want to get too big of a cam. I'm looking to be close to 500rwhp after it's tuned...any suggestions on which cam to go with?
To make 500 you might need higher compression, aftermarket heads like TFS 215's or afr's, and a pretty aggressive cam.
A good 228 cam or something like a TSP torquer V2 should work with your springs and give you hp in the 450-460 range IMO. Those cams on a 112 lsa would also give a pretty lopey idle.
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
A good 450 rwhp street car will probably fun until you can afford your FI setup than just switch cams back and sell the one your not using.



