stroke or not to stroke
09-02-2009, 02:35 PM
#21
Sell your motor as-is and pick up a 6.0 Truck shortblock for cheap.
For the money you would spend on a 4" crank to make a 383, you could find a set of nice used heads.
A 6.0 truck motor is a 4" bore, which will breath better than the 3.9" LS1 once you get decent heads.
For the money you would spend on a 4" crank to make a 383, you could find a set of nice used heads.
A 6.0 truck motor is a 4" bore, which will breath better than the 3.9" LS1 once you get decent heads.
the stock 317 heads are same thing as ls2 heads, but just have larger chamber. unless u plan on max effort n/a there is really no need for p/p heads. the 6.0 can be machined .060 over. with stock crank = 375ci
and with the 317 heads milled and moderate matched cam it will approach 500bhp.
09-02-2009, 02:37 PM
#22
+1
the stock 317 heads are same thing as ls2 heads, but just have larger chamber. unless u plan on max effort n/a there is really no need for p/p heads. the 6.0 can be machined .060 over. with stock crank = 375ci
and with the 317 heads milled and moderate matched cam it will approach 500bhp.
the stock 317 heads are same thing as ls2 heads, but just have larger chamber. unless u plan on max effort n/a there is really no need for p/p heads. the 6.0 can be machined .060 over. with stock crank = 375ci
and with the 317 heads milled and moderate matched cam it will approach 500bhp.
Im so sick of hearing everyone preach "yeah do a stroker" when they aren't standing back and looking at the other options.
09-02-2009, 02:58 PM
#23
cast pistons, stock rods,arp rod bolts, stock crank. ls6 intake, 85mm 3 bolt tb. sd tune. udp.lt,3in.bullet exhaust. lsk lobes cam.etc. 7k rpm, m6
09-02-2009, 04:52 PM
#24
I spent $200 total for both (2) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pumps from Texas Speed. I spent $75 on a Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator. Injectors came with the misc from Coopdog.
So that is the total I have in these parts.
OP, I would build a 347. There are amazing deals online and off ebay for all kinds of different forced induction methods. I have had three different forced induction kits and systems. I have found everyone for under 2500 dollars. I found most of these deals on ls1tech. STS, Procharger, Vortech. I hae sold all these systems except the Vortech that I currently am running on my Z28. I highly reccommend savings your money and just building a Forged 347. There are NUMEROUS SICK 347 Builds. Best of luck
Last edited by 99Ls1fever; 09-02-2009 at 04:58 PM.
09-02-2009, 05:36 PM
#25
I will stroke the LS1 for two reasons:
1. I don't want the extra weight over the nose as I am a spirited driver at times and love hard cornering.
2. I can pretty easily make 470ish (10's) on the 3.9" bore and stay in my budget just running my current heads.
If it was a max effort build damn straight I'd go bigger bore. It's all about what you want out of the car....
1. I don't want the extra weight over the nose as I am a spirited driver at times and love hard cornering.
2. I can pretty easily make 470ish (10's) on the 3.9" bore and stay in my budget just running my current heads.
If it was a max effort build damn straight I'd go bigger bore. It's all about what you want out of the car....
09-02-2009, 07:51 PM
#26
I will stroke the LS1 for two reasons:
1. I don't want the extra weight over the nose as I am a spirited driver at times and love hard cornering.
2. I can pretty easily make 470ish (10's) on the 3.9" bore and stay in my budget just running my current heads.
If it was a max effort build damn straight I'd go bigger bore. It's all about what you want out of the car....
1. I don't want the extra weight over the nose as I am a spirited driver at times and love hard cornering.
2. I can pretty easily make 470ish (10's) on the 3.9" bore and stay in my budget just running my current heads.
If it was a max effort build damn straight I'd go bigger bore. It's all about what you want out of the car....
If you sell your LS1 shortblock while its still in good working order, it would offset a good chunk of the cost.
Im using 5.3 heads on my 4" bore motor (noticed thats what you had)
09-02-2009, 08:35 PM
#28
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OP, you should have added a poll. Out of the 27 posts you have 19 votes (each vote only counted once cannot vote more than once). Here are the results so far:
11 votes for 383
3 votes for forged 347 (I am 1 of 3, add a good FI set-up and you have lots of power and a mean daily drive. This is the set-up I drive over 90 miles each day)
3 votes for 370 (truck motor)
2 votes for new SDPC crate engine
1 vote for 402
So what is your choice?
11 votes for 383
3 votes for forged 347 (I am 1 of 3, add a good FI set-up and you have lots of power and a mean daily drive. This is the set-up I drive over 90 miles each day)
3 votes for 370 (truck motor)
2 votes for new SDPC crate engine
1 vote for 402
So what is your choice?
09-02-2009, 08:59 PM
#29
I agree with everything you say and if I was not working within a budget I would go 402 or dream big and do a LS7. But a good 383 combo will put me in the 10's and if I want more a 150 shot should hit 9's. I have 3 kids and a child support payment so budget is a big part of my decision but I think I would be happy with 470ish....For a while anyway...LOL.
Can you give me the rest of your motor specs and what it put down BTW?????
And to the OP... If all you are chasing is HP and you can swing it go bigger bore with some L92's with a WELL matched cam (the key) and you will prolly get the most power for your dollar of about any LSx combo IMO.....Stroke that b!tch and you will see INSANE bottom end torque
09-03-2009, 11:00 AM
#33
I got the G Trim Head Unit for $800 and I bought all the piping and misc parts off Coopdog for $800. So I have 1600 in the G Trim Unit.
I spent $200 total for both (2) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pumps from Texas Speed. I spent $75 on a Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator. Injectors came with the misc from Coopdog.
So that is the total I have in these parts.
OP, I would build a 347. There are amazing deals online and off ebay for all kinds of different forced induction methods. I have had three different forced induction kits and systems. I have found everyone for under 2500 dollars. I found most of these deals on ls1tech. STS, Procharger, Vortech. I hae sold all these systems except the Vortech that I currently am running on my Z28. I highly reccommend savings your money and just building a Forged 347. There are NUMEROUS SICK 347 Builds. Best of luck
I spent $200 total for both (2) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pumps from Texas Speed. I spent $75 on a Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator. Injectors came with the misc from Coopdog.
So that is the total I have in these parts.
OP, I would build a 347. There are amazing deals online and off ebay for all kinds of different forced induction methods. I have had three different forced induction kits and systems. I have found everyone for under 2500 dollars. I found most of these deals on ls1tech. STS, Procharger, Vortech. I hae sold all these systems except the Vortech that I currently am running on my Z28. I highly reccommend savings your money and just building a Forged 347. There are NUMEROUS SICK 347 Builds. Best of luck
That's pretty good, most people spend between 5500-7000 for their d1 s/c setup with inter-cooler and then have to add in a meth kit and eventual pulley system to keep belts from slipping . Personally I like n/a and the more cubes the better. I suppose if I was looking for a FI build I'd go with and LSX 434 and twins.
09-03-2009, 01:03 PM
#34
That's pretty good, most people spend between 5500-7000 for their d1 s/c setup with inter-cooler and then have to add in a meth kit and eventual pulley system to keep belts from slipping . Personally I like n/a and the more cubes the better. I suppose if I was looking for a FI build I'd go with and LSX 434 and twins.
I agree S/C ers are usally really expensive. I think if people stay patient and cruise multiple boards then you're bound to find something. Even if it is a P1SC and you have it upgraded in the future to a d1sc. I am not a big STS supporter and dont really reccomend them to anyone. But the do make some imprssive dyno numbers and offer a smaller price for most people on the boards. I saw 10lbs on mine w stock everything minus cats gutted and put down 48x something.
I think F/I can be cheaper than people think if they take there time on builds and piece kits together.
I do think that if someone is going to run TWINS then it doesnt really matter the displacement. You can always just make more boost and those turbo setups can just keep cranking up more boost anyways. I would be curious to see how much differance there would be between a 434 LSX with Twins and a Forged 347 with Twins would be???
I mean realsticly if DUMB people dont chime in with stupid comments.
What would be the differance? Either setup CORECTLY BUILT could run upwards of 1,000 hp. At this point you would be into theory and there is no realistic point of having this much HP unless you are John Force.
I am Positive I could build a Twins Setup for mine and produce upwards of 9xx numbers. Tiago switching out his turbo's accomplished this at like 8lbs on twins. And, then in his new setup 1,xxx something.
The Twins are sick, I hope you build one of these setups. It sure would be an amazing build and fun just to say you did it. Tiago is the only one I know that has done a lsx twins build that I KNOW. Cant speak for anyone else.
Last edited by 99Ls1fever; 09-03-2009 at 01:11 PM.
09-04-2009, 07:00 AM
#37
I'm guessing that's an iron block?? I want to keep the front end as light as possible, so I want to go with a 400+ cube aluminum motor. I've been keeping my eyes open for a good shortblock, fully balanced motor for less than $4000, but it has to be AL.
09-04-2009, 08:19 AM
#38
I had a low compression 347 shortblock with forged rods and pistons built for me with the hopes of running a turbo or supercharger, but the price of forced induction is very high and I still haven't finished it. In hindsight, I wish I would have paid the extra $1,000 (cost at the time) and got the 383 shortblock. The longer stroke is doing to give you more torque all over the powerband and will provide a great foundation to continue to build your motor.
09-21-2009, 08:38 PM
#39
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To Stroke, 383 forged bottom end flat top pistons with -6cc valve reliefs arrived today, gonna finish tear down and prep for machine shop, plan on setting up the bottom end after the machine shop is done so i can get all my measurements so i can calculate what size cumbustion chamber i need to get desired compression, WHATS THE HIGHEST COMPRESSION I CAN RUN (without fighting detnation) WITH 93 GAS AND ALIL BOOSTER?
09-21-2009, 09:11 PM
#40
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If it were me, forged bottom end, rods and pistons only, but don't forget the ARP rod bolts.
This winter I'm going to throw on a set of 317's (P&P of course), Thunder's LS2 Cheater cam, LS7 lifters, pushrods, ARP Rod bolts, Intercooler(E-Bay), Walbro 255, and a 50hp shot through the turbo. I'm just going for 600rwhp though.
This winter I'm going to throw on a set of 317's (P&P of course), Thunder's LS2 Cheater cam, LS7 lifters, pushrods, ARP Rod bolts, Intercooler(E-Bay), Walbro 255, and a 50hp shot through the turbo. I'm just going for 600rwhp though.
Last edited by shawn_c992001; 09-22-2009 at 11:33 AM.