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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:43 AM
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Default ARP rod bolts

i am building a 5.3 for my s-10 and picked it up tonight. it was supposed to be a 60k mile motor so i went to check the rod bearings. Looked good and went to put them back on and torqued it back down and one of the bolts actually pulled the head through the built in washer. has any one else ever had this problem? we ended up grinding the head off and getting the bolt out without messing up the rod and the threads look great. so i was thinking of putting a set of ARP rod bolts on? good idea or not some people tell me it causes distortion and premature wear. any help is appreciated.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 02:03 AM
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Do katech rod bolts. They are a direct swap, and use the same torque spec as stock. Therefore no machining is required
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sick'98WS6
Do katech rod bolts. They are a direct swap, and use the same torque spec as stock. Therefore no machining is required
+1 to that !!!
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sick'98WS6
Do katech rod bolts. They are a direct swap, and use the same torque spec as stock. Therefore no machining is required
I never knew that machining was involved in installing ARP rod bolts...

Either way, ARP or Katech, it is cheap insurence for down the road. I would not think twice and do it.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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When I was doing this upgrade, I called ARP and they said they "recommend" that any of their fasteners in rods be machines after install incase of distortion form the new clamping force. Katech said their bolt will not cause distortion.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Katech gets my vote
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