rebuild time! opinions please
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rebuild time! opinions please alright oil pressures been garbage and motor is ticking. starting to eyeball rebuild kits. currently i have 5.3 heads, ls6 intake manifold, ported throttle body, hookers headers, all the bolt ons stock cam. i'll have the heads cleaned up and reuse the IM and throttle body/bolt ons. gunna go with a mild cam at least but maybe something big since it's not a dail driver. now what rebuilt kit should i go with? not trying to build some insane monster but i want it to take a 150 shot and be stout 450 ish to the wheels n/a. all opinions welcomed!
Last edited by rolemodelLT1; Sep 30, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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haven't really budgeted. looking at stroker kits and seeing spending at least 3-4 grand in the end of this. i'll do the build myself. i'm thinking bare block, all bearings full build right now. but again open to all opinions. i might end up not stroking and keeping my stock crank. i'm really unsure. just wanna make a stout motor and strong street car.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=42&catid=27
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=43&catid=86
2 options for ya, I'm very happy with my tsp short block. Add new lifters/trays, ls2 timing chain, ported oil pump. Cam look at something in yhe 224-228 duration .580-.600 " of lift on a 114 lsa. I would at least go with a forged rod and piston for the go gas, and get a piston with a -2cc relief so you wont have any P to V issues.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=43&catid=86
2 options for ya, I'm very happy with my tsp short block. Add new lifters/trays, ls2 timing chain, ported oil pump. Cam look at something in yhe 224-228 duration .580-.600 " of lift on a 114 lsa. I would at least go with a forged rod and piston for the go gas, and get a piston with a -2cc relief so you wont have any P to V issues.
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With a stroker 450 would be pretty easy but expect to pay more because you need a crank. for the forged 347 (your block and crank) you will need forged rods and pistons which will probably be about 1k. Then you will have to get the block machined which will probably run another couple hundred. Add the price of the bearings you'll probably be in it for about 1500 not adding in any unaccounted for expenses that always seem to pop up when building engines.
You can cancel the 402 totally because you need a 6.0 bore that comes in the LS2 block. If your looking for 450 N/A your going to need some good heads like AFR's or trick flows matched to a nice cam.
With a stroker 450 would be pretty easy but expect to pay more because you need a crank. for the forged 347 (your block and crank) you will need forged rods and pistons which will probably be about 1k. Then you will have to get the block machined which will probably run another couple hundred. Add the price of the bearings you'll probably be in it for about 1500 not adding in any unaccounted for expenses that always seem to pop up when building engines.
With a stroker 450 would be pretty easy but expect to pay more because you need a crank. for the forged 347 (your block and crank) you will need forged rods and pistons which will probably be about 1k. Then you will have to get the block machined which will probably run another couple hundred. Add the price of the bearings you'll probably be in it for about 1500 not adding in any unaccounted for expenses that always seem to pop up when building engines.
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car has 60k miles on it. but the motor isn't the original. no idea what the bottom end had on it miles wise and all new top end.
going through a built m6 and 4.10's.
450ish isn't gunna happen with the 5.3s? :[
i'll be going all forged for sure because i like nitrous. really liking strokers but i know the 402 wont happen on my block. so 383 is what i'm eyeballing.
and dynotune locally will run 350ish.
going through a built m6 and 4.10's.
450ish isn't gunna happen with the 5.3s? :[
i'll be going all forged for sure because i like nitrous. really liking strokers but i know the 402 wont happen on my block. so 383 is what i'm eyeballing.
and dynotune locally will run 350ish.
I'm actually looking into building a stroker myself this winter. you could eliminate the need for expensive computer tuning and go carburated. that could also easily take care of any flow issues you would have with a composite intake and you would be able to dial in the setup yourself 
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nah i'll stick with my fuel injection.
i'm pretty set on a all forged 383. my 5.3 heads/ls6 intake. just need to decide on a cam now. come on with the suggestions. considering sending the heads somewhere if money allows.
i'm pretty set on a all forged 383. my 5.3 heads/ls6 intake. just need to decide on a cam now. come on with the suggestions. considering sending the heads somewhere if money allows.
I would reccomend a custom spec'd cam as they seem to always produce better results, your only going to spend 30-75 more on a custom cam too.
Pred Z and Pat G are the biggest cam guys on this board but the sponsors will also cut you a custom cam.
Pred Z and Pat G are the biggest cam guys on this board but the sponsors will also cut you a custom cam.
Thread Starter
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of course custom grind would be the best choice and i'll definately look into it and talk to some sponsors soon. what are some off the shelf cams that would work well with a 383?
looking at something like this so far.
383 forged rotating assembly 1700.00
Ls6 ported oil pump 150.00
Main cam and rod bearings 210.00
Cam/spring/push rods 700.00
Lifters 130.00
Ls2 timing chain set 100.00
2990.00 + shipping and tax
looking at something like this so far.
383 forged rotating assembly 1700.00
Ls6 ported oil pump 150.00
Main cam and rod bearings 210.00
Cam/spring/push rods 700.00
Lifters 130.00
Ls2 timing chain set 100.00
2990.00 + shipping and tax
I always see this kit in the summit catalog, http://treperformance.com/i-90329-tr...or-gm-ls1.html
I'm guessing it might be close to 450 to the wheels.
I'm guessing it might be close to 450 to the wheels.