Missing/backfiring and low cooant
11-02-2009, 06:16 PM
#21
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I know you need to warm up the engine to operating temp, but do not want to put everything back together. If I do a cold engine test, I should be able to tell if the h/g is blown?
11-03-2009, 09:50 AM
#24
Then change the oil and then do the compression test. You will not actually be starting the motor with a compression test so there is no need to refill it with coolant.
11-04-2009, 10:29 AM
#25
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UPDATE:
Leak test was good on all cylinders (10-20%)....except #7. Gurgling sound in the radiator and could not hold any pressure. Pulling the head and hoping for just a gasket, but with plug f'd up I am thinking there is more to the story. Water in the engine is the least of my concerns now.
Leak test was good on all cylinders (10-20%)....except #7. Gurgling sound in the radiator and could not hold any pressure. Pulling the head and hoping for just a gasket, but with plug f'd up I am thinking there is more to the story. Water in the engine is the least of my concerns now.
11-05-2009, 10:47 AM
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Doesn't look good....at least got the intake off yesterday and there is oil in the head #7 intake port. Going to go ahead and take the head off, but it is obviously not just a gasket. Question: Why is it necessary to take the water pump off when removing the heads as directed by JMX?
11-05-2009, 12:12 PM
#28
Water pump removal is not necessary. I think those instructions are also for a cam swap. The power steering pump is a pain to get off. Just be ready to take your time.
