>>>PLEASE ANSWER THIS…<<<

I am running what I consider to be low oil pressure...
20lbs at 1800
10lbs at idle

My oil pump is new and is shimmed. Whatever that means. My question is this… Let’s suppose that I wanted to get more oil pressure, what would I need to do??

I had one guy tell me that I would need to replace the rings, is this true?
Is there a way to replace the oil pump only?
What brand oil pump delivers the most pressure?
Can you get too much pressure?

This is THE motor that was in Joe Prince's car (440rwhp in my car). I talked with Joe today and he told me to change the oil and try a 20/50 or a straight 30 weight oil. (I just got the car Sat - in the snow.)

I want to KNOW that this motor is going to last. I do not want to depend on a parts only warranty to fix a toasted motor.

Please give me the names of some engine builders that can help me understand what is going on here.

I thought you guys may want to see the car. I don't have the money to do this again so I need to make SURE it is correct now BEFORE anything goes wrong.

THANKS GUYS!!!!

http://www.littlelogcabin.com/photop...cat=522&page=3

http://www.littlelogcabin.com/photop...cat=520&page=1

http://www.littlelogcabin.com/photop...cat=520&page=3

http://www.littlelogcabin.com/photop...cat=520&page=2

 

is this a stock cubed motor or a stroker setup. i know guys with strokers seem to have a bit less pressure then the 346. even so, yours is VERY low. i'd be you have a pinch or torn o-ring or it didnt seat properly.

 

Hey George, didn't you already get alot of advice on this? Rephrasing the question in another thread isn't going to fix the car. You can't make any repair plan until you find the problem.

Could be the oil pump. Could be worn bearings. Could be an engine that's basically used up. Rings? I doubt it. I'd like to hear the theory behind that recommendation. Yes, you can replace just the oil pump, so long as you have gaskets, crank bolt, etc.

Since the pump is the easiest (not easy, just easiest) and cheapest thing to do, I'd start with that. If you swap pumps and still have low pressure and the pressure sending unit is working ok, then, I don't think there's anything left to do but tear the engine down.

Also, shimming the pump, should give you more pressure, that's why they do it.

 

10 lbs at idle?

DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR. I don't care if you pour 90 weight in there. Don't run it. That's too low for an LS1. Something is wrong, I bet an O-ring on the oil pump pickup tube. You will trash the motor if you keep this up.

You need to pull the front cover, drop the oil pan down, and check the pickup tube o-ring.

-Andrew

 

i agree on checking the oil pump oring

95% of oil pressure problems come back to that little bastard

 

Look, when you shim an ls1 oil pump you HAVE TO MAKE SURE THE PUMP SEALS CORRECTLY. I put the double roller on mine and had to shim mine. i ended up taking it back off and using some good sealer on the shims to make the oil pressure come back. You see if those shims aren't sealing well they bleed off pressure. I would have someone, or do it yourself, tear it down and check it out. The consequences can be a lot more inconvienient and expensive.

 

I AGREE 10000%. Don't run the motor or car at all and get it ton an expert for a full inspection of the O-ring, etc. This is a serious problem that will seize up your motor quickly if you don't proceed with extreme caution.

GOOD LUCK!

 

I need someone to help me post the warranty that JPR faxed me....what a joke! JPR told me that my warranty is VOID IF I don't replace a 172 thermostat with a 160 thermostat and replace my cat-back!!!!

JD and JP both told me that my car ran so hot during dyno that they had to let it cool down between pulls more than any other car they have ever dynoed. Could this have been because of the oil pump?

What oil pressure was the car running during dyno? I would like for JD and JP to respond to this! How in the world could my car have left the shop like this. Why should I have to change the oil again? You even charged me for that! When you replace the motor don't you get oil? Please respond -- JP and JD

I am going to tow the car to the Chevy shop and have the oil pump and a 160 thermostat installed. I am going to have them check out the motor as best they can. It's obvious that something is wrong but what. We'll know soon enough. I do not want to play with this thing! I see what playing has got others on the forum.

I will post after I get this work done.

I paid JPR CASH up front for all work preformed and this is the treatment I receive? I don't feel that I should have to spend MORE MONEY but this is the ONLY way to know for SURE if it was the pump, rings, or whatever. I will approach JPR about reimbursement after I get the car back from Chevy. Chevy should carry enough clout so that Joe knows that I have taken the car to a respectable service center.

I am looking for others who have a "warranty" from JPR. Is yours a joke too????
Please post. I want to know that JPR gave you parts and labor. I guess I must look a little slow being from SC and all

 

I havent used mine yet, but it is for P&L. Mine is a BRAND NEW COMPLETE motor, so I cant speak for JPR and his warranty on the used motor. Let us know how it goes at the dealer.

 

You are not slow George. Just new to the modding world. I have been where you are. You have already made the first step by identifying that there is a problem. By taking the car to GM you have made another important step. Keep your head up and I am sure all this will be worked out.

 

Don't take it to the dealer and dont spend a DIME troubleshooting.

They shouldn't have given you the car if it was overheating at the shop. They should have kept it till it was FIXED!!

If you take it elsewhere they have grounds to say something else caused the problem. They should pay to have it towed to their shop where they can fix it. PERIOD

 

Yea, DEFINATELY DO NOT take it to any other place then the person that built it for you.

ONLY do what they recomend.. In fact, with so much $$$ involved I probably would have it taken back there for them to fix... that way they can't say the dealer screwed something up or that you did.

 

Ditto on what Tally said, I think that 10 psi is a problem and you could hurt the motor if you beat on the car.

 

Being a C5 he'll also have to remove the rack and pinion. A major PITA if you've never done it before.

 

If he takes it back to JD/JPR I think he is going to end up spending more money. I think they are going to hold his car hostage. Something is not right about this JD/JPR merger.

 

Like I said before, I've used JD as my only tech for 18 years. I'm sure he will do the same thing he did for Eric!!!! RAY

 

I had a low pressuse situation on a car i worked on,it turns out when we did the cam swap an put a katech pump on with a double roller chain the spacer on the drivers side of the pump is not mirror image its kinda got an offset hole that looks centerd but isn't if it's in backwards it will give oil pressure like your describing

just one more possibility something a dealer might not check

good luck

 

I wonder if he used Grey Wolf oil like he did in mine lol!
This is amazing that all of us that have of recent went to JPR are having problems. He used to get nothing but compliments you can't help but wonder if something has changed in his life to cause all this?

 

Maybe, but those of us that are familiar with bad luck and the "Murphy's law" know that when something bad happens, it all happens at the same time. Along with that saying goes "truth is stranger than fiction."

I've seen both of those principles in action far too many times personally.

 

Smoke and mirrors follow certain people and they get away with things until the truth really comes out.

Again JD will fix JPR's mistakes and u dont even get a email or a phone call from the man himself.

Total BS...

JD's I applaud u for helping George out..
Thats being a professional...