New Shortblock-Dirt
New Shortblock-Dirt I got a 408 shortblock and when i got it I tore it apart, well like christmas morning. I then left it there uncovered for about a month or too. the bottom was still covered however because the wrapping was sticky. Now there is a little dog hair and a little dirt in the cylinders sitting of top on the pistons, i honestly think a air compressed gun will blow it all off. what do you think, blow it and build or have the shortblock torn down and cleaned.
what the hell? is this site like third grade or something? the last two posts i've looked at on here have had someone correcting grammar instead of helping the OP.
to the OP: i don't think that you need to tear it all the way down. when i got my forged 347 last year it was a similar situation. it was left un covered in a guys shop, and it got a lot of dust on it. i simply put it on the engine stand, hit it with purple power, ran brushes and stuff down all the oil galleys and washed it off with water. as soon as i was done with that, i hit it with compressed air to get all the water out...sprayed it down with fresh oil and wrapped it up till i was ready to assemble. not one problem out of it doing things that way.
now, the 347 WAS in shortblock form. if you have cylinder heads on it, i would HIGHLY recommend taking the cylinder heads off and taking the camshaft out, as well as take all the covers off. you just have to be smart about it, but i don't think it'd be necessary to take the rotating assembly out.
let this be a lesson though, lol, everything i build stays in a bag until it's ready to go in the car.
On The Tree
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From: Alabama
[QUOTE=thirdgenbum;12664836]what the hell? is this site like third grade or something? the last two posts i've looked at on here have had someone correcting grammar instead of helping the OP.
the OP corrected himself
the OP corrected himself
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Rant fail 
OP, gotta keep a fresh engine clean.....but I understand, I have had similiar things happen. Yeah wipe the cylinders out with brake parts cleaner and I like to roll the motor over to push the crap thats down by the pistons rings up to the top so I can get it too.
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Wow, just wow. Rant fail
OP, gotta keep a fresh engine clean.....but I understand, I have had similiar things happen. Yeah wipe the cylinders out with brake parts cleaner and I like to roll the motor over to push the crap thats down by the pistons rings up to the top so I can get it too.
Rant fail OP, gotta keep a fresh engine clean.....but I understand, I have had similiar things happen. Yeah wipe the cylinders out with brake parts cleaner and I like to roll the motor over to push the crap thats down by the pistons rings up to the top so I can get it too.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
very good point, I saw this first hand. My motor sat under the carport for about a month and it was very humid. My cylinder walls started rusting real quick. I cleaned them and coated them with oil every couple of days to prevent new rust from forming.
Just blow the hair and dust out with the air gun, wipe down the cylinder walls with brake cleaner and the spray it with WD40 so it doesn't rust. I wouldn't take the shortblock apart.
Last edited by Pseudonym; Dec 26, 2009 at 06:59 PM.
Shut the hell up with the grammar crap. You're not contributing anything to this thread.
Take a low-lint rag and saturate it with non-chlorinated brakleen. Wipe down the bores and clean the gasket mating surfaces. Take compressed air and dry the brakleen. Then spray it wd-40. I would say only spray the bores on an aluminum block with wd-40 because you're just going to have to reclean the headgasket mating surface again and the aluminum won't rust... but in your case, you've got an iron block. So the deck will rust... When you get ready to clean the deck for headgaskets, put paper towels in the bores and do the rag/brakleen thing again on the deck.
The above method is peace of mind, compressed air will more than likely be fine.
You sprayed power purple down the oil galleys of an assembled shortblock and brushed it? Was the cam in it? I'm just picturing this cleaning formula designed to remove oil and grease doing it's thing to the assembly lube on the bearings and throughout the motor.
The bottom line here is I wouldn't be that concerned about your shortblock not being covered.
Take a low-lint rag and saturate it with non-chlorinated brakleen. Wipe down the bores and clean the gasket mating surfaces. Take compressed air and dry the brakleen. Then spray it wd-40. I would say only spray the bores on an aluminum block with wd-40 because you're just going to have to reclean the headgasket mating surface again and the aluminum won't rust... but in your case, you've got an iron block. So the deck will rust... When you get ready to clean the deck for headgaskets, put paper towels in the bores and do the rag/brakleen thing again on the deck.
The above method is peace of mind, compressed air will more than likely be fine.
when i got my forged 347 last year it was a similar situation. it was left un covered in a guys shop, and it got a lot of dust on it. i simply put it on the engine stand, hit it with purple power, ran brushes and stuff down all the oil galleys and washed it off with water. as soon as i was done with that, i hit it with compressed air to get all the water out...sprayed it down with fresh oil and wrapped it up till i was ready to assemble. not one problem out of it doing things that way.
The bottom line here is I wouldn't be that concerned about your shortblock not being covered.
yes, the camshaft was out of the engine, and everything was sprayed back down with fresh oil, then wrapped. i believe i even stated that in my third paragraph that it is wise to have the engine down to atleast shortblock form, with the camshaft out of it.
wow thanks for all the help. college just ended for me but i guess i need grammar lessons on the forum. i should start to capitalize my i's. well **** it. anyways thanks for the help, ill clean some ****. thanks
Don't use compressed air. You'll force particles into the ring gap and get it smooshed between 1 and 2 rings where it can do damage.
Start with a Shop Vac to pull out all the loose stuff. Focus on the gap between the piston and cylinder wall, working all the way around each piston.
Auto Trans Fluid is an excellent choice for wiping down the cylinder walls, just saturate a cloth rag with it and wipe away. It will leave a film that prevents oxidation of the cylinder walls also. Keep wiping with fresh cloth surface and ATF until the cloth stays white/clean.
If the engine will be sitting for a few weeks/months before assembly, go back over the cylinder walls w/ engine oil on a cloth rag for extra insurance.
Don't under any circumstances turn the crank until all 8 cylinders are completely cleaned.
When you're done, bag it up in a large thick trash bag and tape it up good and tight.
Start with a Shop Vac to pull out all the loose stuff. Focus on the gap between the piston and cylinder wall, working all the way around each piston.
Auto Trans Fluid is an excellent choice for wiping down the cylinder walls, just saturate a cloth rag with it and wipe away. It will leave a film that prevents oxidation of the cylinder walls also. Keep wiping with fresh cloth surface and ATF until the cloth stays white/clean.
If the engine will be sitting for a few weeks/months before assembly, go back over the cylinder walls w/ engine oil on a cloth rag for extra insurance.
Don't under any circumstances turn the crank until all 8 cylinders are completely cleaned.
When you're done, bag it up in a large thick trash bag and tape it up good and tight.
