Does anyone know where I can find a longer crankshaft bolt. It is for a Silverado SS (6.0L/LQ9). I have already swapped out the cam on the truck but will be doing it again in the future. I have looked all over the internet and am not sure where else to look. Of course the dealer wasn;t much help but I tried just in case. Having done this already twice (don't ask, I made a mistake the first time) I know it would be much easier if I had the longer bolt to get the puley on and off. Any info you guys could give me would be great.

 

If it is the same size as an LS-1 cranshaft bolt then ls1howto.com has the specs. You could take the specs to any hardware store and buy a longer bolt.

 

Yea, that would actually make too much damn sense.

Thanks much.

 

For my car I used a M16x2x120mm bolt. This worked VERY well. I got it at the local auto supply. You will have trouble finding it at a normal hardware store. Most M16 bolts don't go that long. I got mine at a NAPA auto parts place. It's not a crank bolt, but I used a washer so the bolt can push the pulley back on the crank.

 

I fabed up a special comb
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when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<
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GM dealership has bolt about 4-6.00
go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::

REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<

hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again

may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down

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Get a threaded rod, nut and washer.. it is best for the job. Screw the rod all the way in the crank and then just turn the nut. Saves the crank threads...