Getting ready to put together my order for a cam install. I've got the basics pretty figured, I think, but I wanted a bit of input on the extra parts that go in along with the cam, springs, retainers, pushrods, and the gasket set.

1.) Timing Chain: I hadn't found any instance of anybody actually breaking a stock chain in the archives, so I don't see the reason for the JWIS and the beefy double-roller chains. Educate me? $50 vs $150+...

2.) Oil Pump: My motor's got 80K, so mine probably needs replacement, especially since the chain is going in. I'm going to put an LS6 pump in there. Can I get that from MTI along with the rest of the springs/cam/etc? (pretty sure I'll be getting an MTI Stealth of some variety...)

3.) ARP Crank Bolt: yes or no? Or just buy another (2?) TTY stocker? the ARP is reusable, correct?

4.) Valve Seals: Given the 80K heads, since the springs have to come off, is this a good idea to do these too? Cost estimate? (haven't seen it in the archives)

5.) Thermostat: Gets pretty darn cold up here (Colorado), routinely below 50 in the winter, so a 160* seems too cool to me. Compromise and do a 172*? I've got a large Doug Rippie radiator with an oil cooler, so cooling is not a big problem, even when road racing...

6.) Installation tools: As I write this, ls1howto.com is down, so I can't check. I'll need a crank pulley puller, and a valvespring tool. What can I expect to pay for those, and which are the best tools to buy for the process?

7.) Anything else I might be forgetting? I elected not to do the water pump for now, since the install looks pretty easy from the manual, and I can just do that anytime I'm in there.

Thanks guys!

-Jake

 

well my 02 worth is if you're changing cams and are gonna be right there at the chain might as well replace it with a double roller. one less thing to have to worry about. as far as balancer bolt i just used a new stock one.one thing that might help for the crank bolt is a LONG pipe. i bought a 5 ft elec tubing pipe for a few bucks at the hardware store ,made life easier at that point.as far as valve seals i've never replaced them on a ls1 but hey why not if you're already there.

 

pick up a rollmaster double and ls6 ported oil pump from TSP, they have the best price.

TTY crank bolt will be fine.

valve stem seals can be had from TR for 16 bucks and are easy to replace.

from ls1how on a h/c swap:

- Set of metric sockets, deep and normal (from 8mm to 19mm is good)
- Set of Metric wrenches (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm)
- Metric "Gear" wrenches (not absolutely necessary, but REALLY handy)
- 8mm hex allen wrench
- Torque wrench for 20lb/ft up to 150+lb/ft
- Various socket extensions, ranging from 3" to 12"
- Medium length socket wrench
- Large 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Piece of pipe to slip over breaker bar handle
- 1/2" drive 24mm socket
- Adapter from 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive
- 3 armed pulley puller
- Felt tipped marker (if using stock headbolts)
- Plastic ice scraper
- Prybar or large flathead screwdriver
- Medium sized pliers (for hose clamps)
- Medium sized flat head screwdriver
- 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool
- 3+ gallon Bucket
- Optional: Flywheel locking tool (for automatic transmission cars only)
- Optional: Longer crankshaft pulley bolt (Size specs coming soon)
Parts/supplies you will need:
Parts:
- 2 LS1/LS6 engine heads
- 1 Camshaft
- Optional: Underdrive crank pulley
- Optional: blueprinted oil pump
- Optional: New timing chain
- Optional: New OEM 2001 style intake manifold

Bolts/gaskets:
- 2 GM headbolt kits (2x GMPN 12498545)
- OR ARP head bolts or head studs
- For 97-01' style heads, buy 1 pair of headgaskets (1x GMPN 12498543)
- For 02-03' style heads, buy 1 pair of headgaskets (1x GMPN 12498544)
- 2 AIR tube gaskets (2x GMPN 12553617)
- 2 Water pump gaskets for 1997-98 model cars (2x GMPN 12559271)
- 1 front engine seal (1x GMPN 12561244)
- 1 crank pulley bolt (1x GMPN 12557840)

Supplies:
- 7 quarts of oil
- new oil filter
- Jug of dexcool compatible coolant
- RTV Hightemp silicon gasket maker
- Locktite (red tube)
- Tube of Anti-seize
- Shop rags, roll of paper towels
- One can of compressed air with plastic straw (look in computer section of an electronics store)

 

You can get a Rollmaster double chain from SDPC2000 for like $65. You'll use the same three jaw puller to pull off the crank gear. Alsmost too easy to install.

Tbyrne sells a very good spring compresser tool that also comes with the air fitting if you are pressurizing your cylinders. $50

What are you using to hold up your lifters? Not listed on the above tool list. You can use the 16 pen magnets, or go with the cam install tool from JPR. Either way, you better have something.

 

Go ahead and put on an underdrive crank pulley while you have everything torn apart. It's a free mod (in terms of labor) when doing a cam swap.

 

Thanks for the suggestion on the double chain. Who is SDPC2000? Have a link?

Good also on the spring compressor tool - I was wondering about the preferred method of doing valvesprings too.

I was going to use the 16 magnets method, since I'd read a few problems lately folks had had with the JPR tool.

Thanks,

-Jake

 

This is one I'm battling with. I don't want to deal with the light dimming problems and such, and I'm a bit wary of the extra wear on the crank from the non damped pulley that you hear about.

I've also read about the ASP pulley causing a harmonic that can make the belt jump off from time to time, since there's no damper? Any truth to that one?

Is installing the alternator overdrive (along with the crank underdrive) pulley a difficult process, or is it literally one extra bolt?

-Jake

 

You can always compensate any low elec. issues with the alternator overdrive, as mentioned.

My ASP was throwing the belt at high revs. I replaced the stock tensioner pulley (with a new stocker) and the problem has gone away. A Katech tensioner pulley would be a wiser choice.

 

Regarding the pulley, I think I just won't play that game. Plenty of power to be made elsewhere, and I think the peace o' mind is worth 10hp.

Regarding the double chains: I thought I had read that some sort of clearancing was necessary, or it had some effect on the oil pump installation? Might have just been that the thicker gear makes it even harder to get the bolt in the pickup tube...

I'll have to figure out the best places to get all these things too, I bet TSP can probably take care of most of it.

Thanks guys,

-Jake

 

10 hp is 10 hp. Quicker revs too. Oh well. Good luck!

 

Rollmaster chain Unsure of what engine you have. SDPC2000 is the featured sponsor for the site.

The chain will come with spacers to put under your oil pump. Do not try to bolt up your oil pump until your pickup tube is seated properly and the retainer bolt is tight.

If it's good for your application.

 

i agree with SouthFL.02.SS (you need to get a shorter name man ), get an ASP pulley while your at it. you dont run into charging problems unless you run both crank and alt UD pulley and you have a big system. with just the UD crank pulley its fine. mine was thowing belts with the stock pulley as well with my ASP, nothing a new tensioner didnt fix though.

and as far as spring tools get the larry tool (tools forum). its only 25 bucks and comes with a hardened bolt and nut.