I will try to make this as short as possible. I have a 98 ls1 camaro. Everything worked fine. I had it painted. It was driven into the paint booth and painted. Now it will not start. I know it is getting fuel, and I know it is getting spark. When you turn the key into the ON position, the speedo starts creeping up, the fule guage moves to full, and the fuel pump relay chatters. I thought it could be a ground so I checked all I could find. I can find nothing loose. I charged the battery and checked all the pcm connections. I even removed the pcm and cleaned the connectors. I still have the same issue. Have any of you ever had this issue? I used the search function and found little info. I just want to make sure I did not miss anything. I am thinking it may be the pcm. Any suggestions? The car is completely stock down the the manifolds .

Thanks in advance.

 

I have also tested with a known good relay. Same issue.

 

If the pump relay is "chattering" then how do you know you are getting fuel? Did you put a gauge on the rail and test it? I don't see it being a PCM. If the pump relay is good, and you have little to no fuel pressure, then it very well could be a fuel pump.

 

Your positive you have fuel at the fuel rail ?? Not just the sounds of a clicking relay ?? right ? Press on the schrader valve on the rail ( carefully )to verify .

 

Or the rubber hose fell off the pick up in the tank . Ask me how I know

 

I have fuel at the valve. It squirts fuel .

 

Also tried to use hp tuners vcm scanner on the car. The vcm cannot be found....

 

does your security light stays on when you try to start it?

 

Make sure the fuel exiting the valve on the rail is not VAPOR. It should be pretty WET. Sound like fuel pump to me. You really need a fuel pressure gauge to see if your getting the 55-60 PSI required to run the car. Even 20-30 PSI will even make a mess at the rail. Also was the key damaged in any way? It has the security chip on it and the car might not be accepting it. Turn the key on and leave it set for 20 minutes and the computer should reset.

 

Try shooting some carb cleaner in the throttle body to see if it hits. That is if you cant get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge.

 

The key was not damaged in any way. I will put a guage on the car to test the fuel pressure. I will leave the key on for 20 mins as you suggested. The fuel seems to be a very good stream.

 

Left car in key on position for 20 minutes, same issue. I did notice the the fuel pump relay stopped chattering when i removed the pcm. I am at a loss on this one. I tested the car with a new battery as well. Any other ideas / suggestions?

 

If you have fuel pressure you need to check for injector pulse. Do you have a noid light? Have you tried to start it with carb cleaner yet?

 

thats my question

 

The car has 50-55psi of fuel pressure at key on. It does waiver a little in sync with the fuel pump relay chatter but it is only by a couple of psi. The car does not fire with the assistance of carb cleaner. I have not been able to test the injectors with a light yet since i can't hold the light and turn the ignition at the same time, lol. I am looking through all data now for some insight. Anything else you guys suggest?

 

At least I know I am not alone now, lol.

 

Did you pull a plug wire and plug and assure that you are indeed getting spark? I know you mentioned having spark but you didnt elaborate so I can only assume what you might have done.

 

We have no spark. I tested a plug wire with a test light. No power at all. I can also feel the fuel pump vibrating in the rear hatch area in sync with the fule pump relay chatter. Could it be a bad ground?

 

Could it be the cam or crank sensor? IF so how can i verify?

 

You have to go back over your work in the paint booth and figure this out. Retrace all your steps. What did you disconnect? Did paint get on any electrical connectors? You can check the CKP output with a scan tool. You need crank pulses. That's where everything starts. You can hear the pintles of the injectors popping using a mechanics stethoscope which you crank. The crank sensor is behind the starter. Do you have a good CKP output? The cam sensor is at the top back of the block on the older GENIIIs. Do you have good power and ground at the correct pins on your PCM? You can back probe to find power and ground. You can do continuity checks for ground or even voltage drop tests. On the PCM power pins look for B+. The CKP and CMP report to the PCM.