Oil pressure problems?
Oil pressure problems? Guys I bought a used 383 long block. Motor is now installed. Tuner called me today and the oil pressure seems really low. Motor has normal oil pressure when its cold and first cranked up. But he said he was driving it and the water temp was up to about 225-230 and at 2000rpm the oil pressure was like 20lbs. That sounds way low to me. He said that was within spec. But he recommended I have the guys that did the install pull the oil filter and cut it in half and inspect it to make sure nothing bad is going on with the motor.
It seems way off to me. I mean my 120,000 stock motor idles at like 38lbs when its warmed up and hot. Even on real hot days with the ac on. To me it sounds like the bearings are shot or on the way out. What do you guys think might be the problem with it? Plus I really surprised at how hot the motor is running. Before with my stock motor on really hot days with the ac on it would never go over 190 degrees. So I am perplexed as to why this motor is running so much hotter. I know its a stroker but I would not think it would make that much difference.
So what do you guys think the problem may be here? Any ideas appreciated.
It seems way off to me. I mean my 120,000 stock motor idles at like 38lbs when its warmed up and hot. Even on real hot days with the ac on. To me it sounds like the bearings are shot or on the way out. What do you guys think might be the problem with it? Plus I really surprised at how hot the motor is running. Before with my stock motor on really hot days with the ac on it would never go over 190 degrees. So I am perplexed as to why this motor is running so much hotter. I know its a stroker but I would not think it would make that much difference.
So what do you guys think the problem may be here? Any ideas appreciated.
factory specs call for about 10 psi hot idle (actually less)
being a 383, it depends who built the motor and what specs they used for the bearings and what oil it was suppose to run on.
It could be fine, or it could be bad depending on the builder.
the temps do seem out of wack, so make sure the cooling system is working good. beyond that you really need to know if the motor was designed for electric fans or a clutch fan, and what temp thermostat is in it.
we really need more information what car is it in, carbed or FI? who the builder is, who the tuner is. it all matters.
being a 383, it depends who built the motor and what specs they used for the bearings and what oil it was suppose to run on.
It could be fine, or it could be bad depending on the builder.
the temps do seem out of wack, so make sure the cooling system is working good. beyond that you really need to know if the motor was designed for electric fans or a clutch fan, and what temp thermostat is in it.
we really need more information what car is it in, carbed or FI? who the builder is, who the tuner is. it all matters.
factory specs call for about 10 psi hot idle (actually less)
being a 383, it depends who built the motor and what specs they used for the bearings and what oil it was suppose to run on.
It could be fine, or it could be bad depending on the builder.
the temps do seem out of wack, so make sure the cooling system is working good. beyond that you really need to know if the motor was designed for electric fans or a clutch fan, and what temp thermostat is in it.
we really need more information what car is it in, carbed or FI? who the builder is, who the tuner is. it all matters.
being a 383, it depends who built the motor and what specs they used for the bearings and what oil it was suppose to run on.
It could be fine, or it could be bad depending on the builder.
the temps do seem out of wack, so make sure the cooling system is working good. beyond that you really need to know if the motor was designed for electric fans or a clutch fan, and what temp thermostat is in it.
we really need more information what car is it in, carbed or FI? who the builder is, who the tuner is. it all matters.
I don't know the builder and I'm pretty certain the guy I bought it from does not know the builder. He got it used from someone. But the guy I got it from has a good reputation on here. I'm not going to mention any names. That would not be appropriate right now. I mean I took the gamble on buying a used motor. I knew it did not come with any type of warranty when I bought it. Oh and its fuel injected like normal.
If you are utilizing the stock pump or a pump that flows like stock, and the 383 has average main and rod clearances of ~0.0025" then this is normal, you would need a high volume to bring it up. The stock clearances of 0.001" give it really high pressure. You do not need high pressure, as long as you are 45-50 @ WOT, you're fine. Try and follow the paper trail and find out your clearances as well as what pump you are using. Also, what oil?
The shop is just going to pull the motor out and disassemble it and go through everything. Its the only way to be absolutely sure. They don't want to put anymore stress on the motor because they are worried it will spin a bearing. The oil looks fine and the filter shows no metal. But I agree with them that it is not worth taking a chance on and doing some real damage to the motor.
One other thing about the cooling issue. The tuner said when you crank the car up it seems to get up to operating temp very rapidly. Instead of rising slowly like a car would normally do. The shop said it sounded like a flow problem. Could very well be a problem with the new water pump I had put on it. Even though its new it could still be faulty. I guess I will know more after the motor is gone through and back together.
One other thing about the cooling issue. The tuner said when you crank the car up it seems to get up to operating temp very rapidly. Instead of rising slowly like a car would normally do. The shop said it sounded like a flow problem. Could very well be a problem with the new water pump I had put on it. Even though its new it could still be faulty. I guess I will know more after the motor is gone through and back together.
The shop is just going to pull the motor out and disassemble it and go through everything. Its the only way to be absolutely sure. They don't want to put anymore stress on the motor because they are worried it will spin a bearing. The oil looks fine and the filter shows no metal. But I agree with them that it is not worth taking a chance on and doing some real damage to the motor.
One other thing about the cooling issue. The tuner said when you crank the car up it seems to get up to operating temp very rapidly. Instead of rising slowly like a car would normally do. The shop said it sounded like a flow problem. Could very well be a problem with the new water pump I had put on it. Even though its new it could still be faulty. I guess I will know more after the motor is gone through and back together.
One other thing about the cooling issue. The tuner said when you crank the car up it seems to get up to operating temp very rapidly. Instead of rising slowly like a car would normally do. The shop said it sounded like a flow problem. Could very well be a problem with the new water pump I had put on it. Even though its new it could still be faulty. I guess I will know more after the motor is gone through and back together.
