First I have a 2000 Z28 M6 that was completly bone stock down to the factory muffler.

I just finished installing 243 heads milled .005 with 2.055 intake valves, with factory replacement MLS head gaskets, along with a 228/232 XER lobe comp cam wth Patriot gold double springs. A fast 90/90 with GM white fuel injectors 42lbs. Pacesetter non emissions long tube headers.

On first start up it idled for about 30 seconds then it shut off, I started it back up having to mash the throttle pedal a good bit to get it started agian,, the car will run good between 1500-2000rpms anything below 1500rpms it will try to shut off and anything above 2000rpms the engine starts to break up.

I had the mass air flow sensor hooked up along with the IAC and throttle position switch hooked up.I kept the car running until it got up to 200 degree's hopeing it would atleast try to run better,but it was still the same.
I have run the engine for about 3-5 minutes three different times without it getting any better.

What I am wondering is, is this normal with a car that has had this much change done to it at one time?
Reason I ask is because I don't want to show up at Vengeance Racing to get a dyno tune with the car having problems that aren't computer related.

Also the oil pressure is at 60psi at 1500rpm,and there is no fuel smell coming from the exhaust.

 

Did you get a start up tune? You changed injectors...

 

Get a ball park tune flashed in, maybe if you can set the idle screw higher (not sure due to I dont know what 9mm you went with). Ultimately changing injectors requires a reflash and you do NOT want to be too rich. Fuel wash down of cyl walls kills the protective properties of the engine oil and you will wipe out your bearings.

 

No I did not get a start up tune,,,also the cam LSA is 112 no advance.

I just spoke to Vengeance just a few minutes ago and they said that it sounds like it just needs a start up tune to get the car running good enough to drive. For me to bring my computer to them and they will program the computer good enough to be able to drive it to them to get dyno tuned.

Agian reason I started this thread was to make sure that what my car is doing is normal after a head,cam,intake,fuel injectors ,and emissions stuff are changed.

 

It is considered commonplace that if your doing the work yourself to have the shop or a tuner give you a baseline.

Had the work been done at the shop they would have done it all themselves.

 

Probably would run better with the stock injectors in there. At least enough to get the thing up to temp and check things. But you def need a reflash with changing injectors

 

(BlackScreaminMachine) the throttle body is a PTM 90mm,,,,and there is no fuel smell coming from the exhaust like one running rich would smell.

But speaking of engine oil,,I was so glad to see 60psi oil pressure and holding at 1500rpm ,because there was three orings to choose from and I chose the one that looked the most like the original one. And I have read so many oil pressure problems on this forum from using the wrong oring or from pinching the oring,,,,but I had my engine out of the car so it made replacing the oil pump and oring alot simpler,,,,,also when I removed the factory oil pump the oil pump gear was just flopping around in the oil pump housing.