2000 WS6/LS1 Rebuild Advice?!?!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: The Woodlands, TX
2000 WS6/LS1 Rebuild Advice?!?! I got purchased a 2000 WS6 M6 w/20xxx orig miles on it. The car sat for years and didnt get touched. At high RPMs there is a bit of blue smoke and I am sure its either the Valve Seals or a Ring. That being said I want to freshen up the motor but still have it very street-able. Trying to spend no more than $4-5k but want the most out of that money as well. Can you guys help me out on what the best setup would be concerning the motor. It has LTHs and SLP Loudmouth exhaust. I will go into the suspension in 2 months when I get some more extra $$$. Was thinking heads, mild cam, CIA and a tune but what do YOU GUYS think the best setup would be for that type of money?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Braselton,Ga
To me it all depends on if you plan on taking the car to the track.
Reason I say this is because if I were able to start over agian I would have bought a 9"rear end,stronger drive shaft,and a different clutch instead of spending money on the engine.But I didn't so now I have a motor that I want be able to get it's full potential at the drag strip until I upgrade the three items I listed above
But if you don't plan on taking it to the drag strip then dive into H/C/I swap.
Also for your blue smoke problem I would first make sure your PVC valve is working correctly.Also you should be able to get new valve seals installed without it costing to much$$.Lastly I doubt you have a stuck or bad Ring,,but anything is possible.
Reason I say this is because if I were able to start over agian I would have bought a 9"rear end,stronger drive shaft,and a different clutch instead of spending money on the engine.But I didn't so now I have a motor that I want be able to get it's full potential at the drag strip until I upgrade the three items I listed above
But if you don't plan on taking it to the drag strip then dive into H/C/I swap.
Also for your blue smoke problem I would first make sure your PVC valve is working correctly.Also you should be able to get new valve seals installed without it costing to much$$.Lastly I doubt you have a stuck or bad Ring,,but anything is possible.
Last edited by incbed; Sep 8, 2010 at 08:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: The Woodlands, TX
To me it all depends on if you plan on taking the car to the track.
Reason I say this is because if I were able to start over agian I would have bought a 9"rear end,stronger drive shaft,and a different clutch instead of spending money on the engine.But I didn't so now I have a motor that I want be able to get it's full potential at the drag strip until I upgrade the three items I listed above
But if you don't plan on taking it to the drag strip then dive into H/C/I swap.
Also for your blue smoke problem I would first make sure your PVC valve is working correctly.Also you should be able to get new valve seals installed without it costing to much$$.Lastly I doubt you have a stuck or bad Ring,,but anything is possible.
Reason I say this is because if I were able to start over agian I would have bought a 9"rear end,stronger drive shaft,and a different clutch instead of spending money on the engine.But I didn't so now I have a motor that I want be able to get it's full potential at the drag strip until I upgrade the three items I listed above
But if you don't plan on taking it to the drag strip then dive into H/C/I swap.
Also for your blue smoke problem I would first make sure your PVC valve is working correctly.Also you should be able to get new valve seals installed without it costing to much$$.Lastly I doubt you have a stuck or bad Ring,,but anything is possible.
Had the PVC System checked and its good to go but also have a catch can coming. I dont wanna take it to the track but would like to have some more power on the street. What are some good H/C/I to go with?
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Braselton,Ga
Look at my signature,,I have around $3,200 in my heads,cam,intake,TB,fuel injectors,push rods,lifters,oil pump,timing chain,gaskets,headers,y-pipe,and other misc items.
Keep in mind I did all the work my self other than the work that was done to the heads.So I save alot of money doing the work my self.
So I would recommend 243 heads if possible the Z06 243 heads because they have the lighter valves.Have the heads milled .010.I would use Pac springs. With a .051 MLS head gaskets.
As for a cam I would recommend 224/228 581/588 XER lobes.
For intake try to find a used FAST 90 or 92 intake ,but I would go with a PTM or Edelbrock 90mm throttle body,,FAST TB's are known for there blades getting stuck.
I would also go ahead and upgrade your fuel injectors,because everything is going to have to be tuned anyways.
All the above should give you a nice street friendly driver with get up and go when you want to.
Also if you want everyone to know you have a cam then go with a 111 or 112 LSA if you could care less then go with a 113 or 114 LSA.
And in the end the most important part is getting a good tune.
Keep in mind I did all the work my self other than the work that was done to the heads.So I save alot of money doing the work my self.
So I would recommend 243 heads if possible the Z06 243 heads because they have the lighter valves.Have the heads milled .010.I would use Pac springs. With a .051 MLS head gaskets.
As for a cam I would recommend 224/228 581/588 XER lobes.
For intake try to find a used FAST 90 or 92 intake ,but I would go with a PTM or Edelbrock 90mm throttle body,,FAST TB's are known for there blades getting stuck.
I would also go ahead and upgrade your fuel injectors,because everything is going to have to be tuned anyways.
All the above should give you a nice street friendly driver with get up and go when you want to.
Also if you want everyone to know you have a cam then go with a 111 or 112 LSA if you could care less then go with a 113 or 114 LSA.
And in the end the most important part is getting a good tune.
