NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

They why don't you just put in forged rods and pistons and spray the difference, save 1k. I haven't seen too many ls1 cranks break.

Trl_ws6

iTrader: (9)

I have a buddy with a 396. Its 4.125 stroke and 3.903 bore...

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

SO, why is a 383 a waste? Unless you replace the block, the 383 is probably your best bet. The 4.10" stroke crank in a 3.905" bore has some issues with cylinder wear. Whether that's the case or not, I can tell you that I've seen a lot more 383's than 396's. Look up Tony Mamo's 383 results. I know I'm quite happy with my 383. If I chose to spend much more money, I would have gone the stroked LS3 route. But, again, more money. I built my 383 cheap!!

Trl_ws6

iTrader: (9)

I know of no other 396 ls.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

hmmm, well i am still considering the 383, but ive been finding dyno`s of a whopping 425-440whp. $1900 plus labor, so a total of say 3k for 30-40hp is a compete fail in $ to power gained. is there a section that i might find that has better results? For example, im at 409whp and 368tq right now with my ls6 stg 2 heads and tv2 with minor bolt ons. what would i be looking at after stroking it with a 383 and a 393? approximately of course

Trl_ws6

iTrader: (9)

I wanna say my buddyis around the 5 mark

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-stroking.html


Check this thread it has some good info. I used to think with the same combination of heads and cam and intake no changes and putting a stroker kit in would increase hp. but the cam and heads only flows what it allows so you end up with the same hp but more torque ... I researched and was left with being wrong

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

^ i saw that when i searched, not exactly what i was looking for but i found something off of that thread. 383 engine dyno results, now idk how he got these numbers really. But things look pretty nice. IM going to read some more into it and i hope i find more people with similar set ups with dyno graphs

garygnu

a 383 ls1 with some nice 243s and good EPS cam and a fast 92 combo will make 500/500 easily and be streetable.

ls6firebird

thats my plan. im planning to go with the 347 assembly from tsp. i know thats a lot smaller than what the op is lookin for. since im mainly just upgrading the bottom end for nitrous, this didnt seem like a bad option even tho there wont be a whole lot of gains from just the rotating assemble. i just need to research to see what kind of machine work i will need to have done and what that will cost

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

^ true, but if you`re your pretty much rebuilding it, might as well stroke it for what, just a bit more right?


ps: can someone direct me to a place i can learn more about stroking and bore size etc.

like whats the max you can bore an ls1, stroke an ls1. TSP, yes i know you said a 383 is about the biggest i want to go, but whys some people doing a 393-396?
This is also one of the reasons why i would like someone to direct me to more detailed info on this. Cause im not sure on the max and description of the difference between stroking, boring, honing etc.

Sorry if some things sounds confusing, its hard for me to say what i mean exactly....( im half dumby) lol

ls6firebird

haha yea normally i try to get everything i can out of somethin. so many people are building the big cube motors. im tryin to be somewhat different and stay with the smaller cubes and see what i can do with it. i was leaning towards the 383 for a while since i could still use the same block reasonably. i just really havent seen a lot of the 347s. at least not around where i live

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

As many have tried to point out in this thread, there AREN'T many people doing 393-396's. The longer stroke is harder on the cylinder walls than a comparible 383 with a 4.00" stroke crank. You keep mentioning what the max amount you can go with on an LS1, but let's explore what your goals really are: Is this primarily a street car, or more for drag racing? Are you interested in just peak power, or broad power "under the curve?"

In one of your posts, you mention that you've seen 383's dyno in the 420-440 range. That might be true, but there are many others over that amount. But, for me, stroking the motor was the way to go for torque, not the horsepower. The larger motor has a ton more torque down low and that's what I wanted. Mine is a daily driver and I have over 400 foot pounds of torque as low as 2500 rpm. That's what I wanted. If you really want max cubes, then look at a different block.

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

My 383 n/a dyno pull at Livernois Motorsports was 482/441 and this is with a small ported FAST 78mm intake and 1 3/4" headers. The car (3490# with driver) has trapped 127 mph n/a with 125 mph n/a being closer to norm. Dyno numbers are just that...numbers. The HP to weight ratio is what dictates the trap speed and that is the number which tell the real story.

P.S. Be prepared to pay a lot more than 3K for that stroker if you what anywhere near 500 rwhp.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

thanks guy,
and yes i know its been kinda answered but i was wondering if there was a odd stroke that was just below a 393 but above 383 and boring etc. But now i have came to a settlement. A 383 is going to be the route, not sure on bore. Now i have to decide if im building a turbo after(long after) or just spray it. Now i know TSP said my cam would be small for a 393-6, but what about the 383? IM guessing it`ll be mild. I DD it and its pretty nice, but grumpy in the morning and cold starts, but i love that the power flattens at 6k and stays that way till redline 6.8k and looks as if it`d carry till 7-7.5k. Tq`s a little weak so the stroke will help alot. So it seems it might be perfect for a 383....

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

I don't under stand your hang up with this bore thing? Go with the most common 3.905 bore,pistons are plentiful (all manufactures) in that size. What are you cam specs?

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

ok got ya, thank you and my cam specs are 232-234, .595/.598, 112+0

im hoping that with my current set up with just stroking it would get me 450-475whp and 420-450tq which seems possible cause i could still get a few more bolt ons and hopefully reach that 500whp+ mark

although i really want to switch cams with tsp`s 233-239, .595/.603 with a 114lsa or their custom option of 234-236, .598/.603 114lsa or more 115-116. But for me im trying to not go crazy since of course im in school and on a budget, unless i found someone wanting to buy it lol

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

......

lets wake this thread back up. I have the money to do everything now and know a little more then i did a few months ago.

Im going to do the 383ci with 3.905 bore. Looking for someone selling theirs they never installed, or get it from tsp. Well see.

Is there any advice i could get like, should i get it balanced crank from TSP or just get it done at the machine shop with assembling it? can i get different compression settings?
I have to figure out if i`ll just spray it or wait a year or so and turbo it....

Since my cam is a Tv2, should i get a bigger one? As i mentioned in my old post, I DD it and is a nice cam but its a little gumpy at start and is bucky for the first 5-10 mins. What would be comparable in cam size in a 346? Example, will the Tv2 act stock in a 383? or be like a 220-220 cam in a 346?

really excited for this knowing that this is going to be pretty much bullet proof.

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

You really need to figure out if your going the N/A and nitrous route or forced induction. If you are going forced induction get low compression pistons. Yes you will not make a lot of n/a power but once you add a blower or turbo all that will change. You can also have low compression pistons with nitrous but you won't make as much power and I think that is one of your biggest concerns.

I would definitely switch to a custom spec'd stroker cam though.

1991ls13

iTrader: (1)

what horse power - tq difference between doing nos or turbo?

and what ho,tq difference would be between say haveing 8.5.1 and 11.1.1?