any write up's on LS1 engine removal?
#3
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I followed jmX's heads/cam install page, on removing all the accesories and stuff
after that, its just basically remove what you can or leave it tyed up in the engine bay
If your leaving the tranny in the car, either have about 2 feet of extensions and a swivel to get to the top bellhousing bolts, or take off a head and get the bolts out with a racheting-wrench
after that, its just basically remove what you can or leave it tyed up in the engine bay
If your leaving the tranny in the car, either have about 2 feet of extensions and a swivel to get to the top bellhousing bolts, or take off a head and get the bolts out with a racheting-wrench
#4
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Did a search. This is from BRains
Out the top is definitely the fastest for me, in a garage.
You can pull the transmission with it if you like, just pull the shifter, driveshaft, and drop the crossmember. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. Don't forget to unplug the reverse lockout, VSS, and backup light plugs. Or simply unbolt the transmission from the motor. Your choice.
1. Remove fans, radiator, water pump
2. Unbolt power steering pump, alternator w/ bracket, a/c compressor, and lay to the side.
3. Remove fuel rails and intake manifold.
4. Unhook all the remaining harness connections from the motor and push it out of the way (oil level sensor, crank position sensor, cam position, oil pressure, water temp, knock sensor harness, ignition coils)
5. Disconnect the ground leads on the back of the driver's side head, and the driver's side of the block.
6. Disconnect the exhaust from the headers/manifolds.
7. Drop the starter (disconnect the battery first).
8. Connect a chain TIGHT across the top of the motor, from the back of one head to the front of the other. Lift the motor enough to remove stress from the motor mounts.
9. Unbolt the motor mounts (single long bolt through the center of each).
10. Lift the motor off the frame stands, move it forward, lift, move, lift move, working your way up and out. Having the crank pulley here gives you plenty of room, but you CAN sneak it out with the pulley still attached.
Out the top is definitely the fastest for me, in a garage.
You can pull the transmission with it if you like, just pull the shifter, driveshaft, and drop the crossmember. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. Don't forget to unplug the reverse lockout, VSS, and backup light plugs. Or simply unbolt the transmission from the motor. Your choice.
1. Remove fans, radiator, water pump
2. Unbolt power steering pump, alternator w/ bracket, a/c compressor, and lay to the side.
3. Remove fuel rails and intake manifold.
4. Unhook all the remaining harness connections from the motor and push it out of the way (oil level sensor, crank position sensor, cam position, oil pressure, water temp, knock sensor harness, ignition coils)
5. Disconnect the ground leads on the back of the driver's side head, and the driver's side of the block.
6. Disconnect the exhaust from the headers/manifolds.
7. Drop the starter (disconnect the battery first).
8. Connect a chain TIGHT across the top of the motor, from the back of one head to the front of the other. Lift the motor enough to remove stress from the motor mounts.
9. Unbolt the motor mounts (single long bolt through the center of each).
10. Lift the motor off the frame stands, move it forward, lift, move, lift move, working your way up and out. Having the crank pulley here gives you plenty of room, but you CAN sneak it out with the pulley still attached.
#5
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i have pulled several ls-1's out of f bodys and c5's the happy hooker lifting plate from tpis was a great help. you remove the intake and it bolts to the valley cover using the existing bolts. if you are going to pull it out the top get one!
#6
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Originally Posted by Tapout
Id like to pull from the bottom.
Its pretty simple, I did one of my customers in 3 hours by myself... and that was slacking so it can be done faster! I use Alldata at work though, so it had step by step... sorry I dont have a write up I can post