cam install question.
03-12-2011, 02:41 PM
#2
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Not exactly, but you have to change the valve springs and pushrods. You need to use a technique to take out the cam and keep the lifters from falling in the oil pan. You can either use magnets in the head to keep them up or buy the tool from thunder racing that holds the lifters up. It is a rod you put in on each side of the block that holds them up. that is what I am going to do and what I recomend.
03-12-2011, 06:57 PM
#5
Just use a wooden dowel rod to slide into the holes to hold up the lifters. I think it is 3/8 inch size and you have to shave a bit off of one side to get each side to slide in all the way.
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03-12-2011, 08:23 PM
#8
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I did this a few months ago. It's not fun, but it's not that bad. It's very time consuming. I followed the LS1How-to guide almost exactly. I used the TDC method for the valves and I used 5/16" wooden dowels for the lifters and it worked perfect. I had a hell of a time getting the old crank pulley off, don't try doing it with anything other than the proper sized puller.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
03-12-2011, 11:29 PM
#9
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I did this a few months ago. It's not fun, but it's not that bad. It's very time consuming. I followed the LS1How-to guide almost exactly. I used the TDC method for the valves and I used 5/16" wooden dowels for the lifters and it worked perfect. I had a hell of a time getting the old crank pulley off, don't try doing it with anything other than the proper sized puller.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
03-12-2011, 11:39 PM
#10
I did this a few months ago. It's not fun, but it's not that bad. It's very time consuming. I followed the LS1How-to guide almost exactly. I used the TDC method for the valves and I used 5/16" wooden dowels for the lifters and it worked perfect. I had a hell of a time getting the old crank pulley off, don't try doing it with anything other than the proper sized puller.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Read the website like 10 times before you even start. Torque wrench is your friend.
03-13-2011, 03:07 AM
#11
Im going to be doing my cam swap hopefully this summer too. How much of a pain is it too upgrade to the LS7 lifters? I have read the guide on ls1howto.com and these videos were also nice to watch. I know this swap was on a truck 5.3L but i dont think it should be very much different than an LS1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=199YY...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQLhI...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=199YY...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQLhI...eature=related
03-13-2011, 11:47 AM
#14
i swapped cams twice in my ls1 trans am..got ballsy and did not use any dowels or rods or anythig to hold the lifters up in place...i disconnected the chain, put the gear back on, and spun the cam about 10 times to get the lifters to "sit" in the trays, held my breath..pulled the old cam, reinstalled the new cam and luckily didnt have any lifters fall...
is it recommended ...no
worked for me though
is it recommended ...no
worked for me though
03-13-2011, 12:59 PM
#15
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I wouldnt use wooden dowels either get metal one from home depot. It takes about an extra 10 seconds to slip them in as opposed to the spin the cam hold your breath method.
Also buy the balancer install tool dont do the use the old bolt then remove it method and make sure to have plenty of red and blue loc tite, spring shims, and all the various other tools needed. They will run you about $450-$500 just for install tools to do it right.
Also buy the balancer install tool dont do the use the old bolt then remove it method and make sure to have plenty of red and blue loc tite, spring shims, and all the various other tools needed. They will run you about $450-$500 just for install tools to do it right.
03-13-2011, 02:21 PM
#17
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One thing tsp didnt tell me when I order my package from then was I would need injectors. Do some searching and see if your cam will require injectors. If so add another $300-$400 to your overall price.
03-15-2011, 09:51 AM
#18
i have did two cam swaps one with the pin magnet method and one with the spin the cam and hold your breath method i am not a fan of the hold you breath method to many ways things can go wrong but i really like the pin magnet method its 16 bucks well spent for the piece of mind you get
03-15-2011, 11:17 AM
#19
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all methods listed will work, if you don't mind spending the xtra money, take the heads off, but your dealing with a lot more stuff to do, best to use the rod method and just take your time, don't half *** anything and again be patient.
