head torquing issue

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Mar 20, 2011 | 05:51 PM

nazztman4739

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From: Martinsburg wv

head torquing issue

i torqued my heads yesterday according to specs 22 lbs first pass 90 degrees second and 90 3rd 50 final ok the problem is the first pass didnt make it pass 45 degrees whats the final torque number

Mar 20, 2011 | 06:00 PM

z99ls1

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From: kansas

That doesn't sound right

Mar 20, 2011 | 06:26 PM

ct06gto

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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3

Mar 20, 2011 | 06:36 PM

speedtigger

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From: Florida

I see some that say 22 then 90 then 70 and some that say 22 then 90 then 90 again. So, which one is correct?

Mar 20, 2011 | 07:04 PM

CNTLSE 1

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I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues

Mar 20, 2011 | 07:09 PM

sman

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CNTLSE 1

I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues

Done 3 sets this way on 2 different motors, works fine every time.

Make sure you have the bolt holes clean! No coolant or anything in them, liquids dont compress, and you WILL break a bolt, theres several threads on here right now where people broke bolts.

Mar 20, 2011 | 07:43 PM

ct06gto

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Quote:

Originally Posted by speedtigger

I see some that say 22 then 90 then 70 and some that say 22 then 90 then 90 again. So, which one is correct?

My helms book for my 06 gto (ls2) says tighten the m11 bolts 1-10 to 22lbs, then a second pass to 90 DEGREES, then a third pass to 70 DEGREES. Then tighten the m8 bolts 11-15 to 22 lbs.

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Mar 20, 2011 | 08:55 PM

Camaroz

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From: South Shore, MA

Straight From AllData for a 01 SS

First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.

Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees

Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees
Note: Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head

Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts 50 degrees
Note: at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence

M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.

Mar 20, 2011 | 09:23 PM

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99slobird

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From: tuscumbia al

Quote:

Originally Posted by sman

I sa your lucky if you break a bolt ..... I cracked the block instead

Mar 20, 2011 | 09:27 PM

#11

speedtigger

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From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camaroz

I don't know anything more credible than AllData. Texas speed told me 90 & 90 too.

I always hate when there is conflicting information out there.

Mar 21, 2011 | 05:07 AM

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vettenuts

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From: Little Rhody

Depends on the year, later cars have equal length bolts if I am not mistaken. Do you have the service manual for the year of motor that you are working on?

Mar 21, 2011 | 09:11 AM

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01ssreda4

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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99slobird

I sa your lucky if you break a bolt ..... I cracked the block instead

I ripped most of the threads out of one hole....not fun

Quote:

Originally Posted by CNTLSE 1

I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues

This is the way my Haynes says to do it, and thats the way I have always done it.

Mar 22, 2011 | 05:12 PM

#14

speedtigger

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From: Florida

I just went by the dealership and had my buddy pull it up on AllData. We looked up a 2004 Cadillac Escalade Vin Code "N". (LQ9) The specs were:

22lbs
then 90 degrees
then 70 degrees

Since I saw that with my own eyes on the most credible source that I know, that is what I am going to use to torque mine unless somebody makes me aware of something that I did not account for.

Edit: From what I understand, in 2004 they changed the design so that all bolts are the same length (4" or 100MM). This may explain why I have found different torque specs than others who may be working on older motors with different length head bolts. All my research has been for the 2004 and newer engines with single length 4" head bolts.

Last edited by speedtigger; Mar 22, 2011 at 05:24 PM. Reason: New information

Mar 22, 2011 | 08:30 PM

#15

garygnu

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are you using ARPs bolts?

Mar 22, 2011 | 08:52 PM

#16

nazztman4739

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From: Martinsburg wv

yes arp bolts when u torque the second and 3 time do u use a standard ratchet or the torque wrench

Apr 12, 2011 | 12:57 PM

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chrisfrost

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From: phx the cactus patch

The second and third passes are degrees of rotation (360deg a full circle) so if You don't have and are'nt going to buy an angle gauge then make 1 out of construction cardboard and put a hole at the center for You're rachet/socket . Basically a compass or protractor but bigger as to be more accurate . I would use a regular 1/2 inch rachet as the more You use a torque wrench the less in calibration it becomes especially using it in reverse to remove head bolts .....etc good luck

Apr 12, 2011 | 08:15 PM

#18

ryle

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From: Morris, IL

Quote:

Originally Posted by nazztman4739

yes arp bolts when u torque the second and 3 time do u use a standard ratchet or the torque wrench

Hold on man... If you are using ARP bolts you could possibly do some damage if you are using the degree method. From my understanding that method is for use with stock GM Torque to Yield head bolts...

ARP BOLTS DON'T STRETCH LIKE GM BOLTS!

I have always used the torque specs on this page and never had a problem. Look under the section that says in Yellow: If Using ARP Headbolts