Stealth or Beastmode Cam
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
If you like the Thunder Racing line-up, then the Cheatr series is probably what you are looking for.
The TRAK cam is a max effort cam for racing.
The Cheatr cams are supposed to sound close to stock and all of them have at least 114 LSA - which cleans up the idle. Some of them are up in the 117 LSA range.
Good luck.
IMO a good set of high flow heads, milled to bump up the compression needs to be on your list. 
An add to that a set of dual electric cut-out right after the headers, that way you can have a quiet exhaust after the cut-outs to keep it a little more stealthy!
An add to that a set of dual electric cut-out right after the headers, that way you can have a quiet exhaust after the cut-outs to keep it a little more stealthy!
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Mar 30, 2011 at 05:20 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 117
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Sorry, although I love the new Stang in every way, I refuse to drop 30 plus thousand for a car I can beat right now, especially when I can use 5k for heads and cam and murder the 5.0s.
While I do agree that a custom cam spec'd by Pat or Geoff would be the best bet I dont think your going to get to 400whp with just a cam m6's can do it but they also dont have the drivetrain loss a stalled auto does. If you did a simple head swap, even some regular 243's and then a custom cam 400 is def attainable.
If you really want it stealthy, you need to shot for -8* overlap or greater.
Maybe something along the lines of a 223(.607")/223(.607")/116lsa (-9* overlap) w/CompCams LSL lobes and milled high flow heads.
Maybe something along the lines of a 223(.607")/223(.607")/116lsa (-9* overlap) w/CompCams LSL lobes and milled high flow heads.
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Just a stealth suggestion...EPS 218-.595/226-.598 @117+3deg
-12 deg overlap should idle stock even w/no cats
perhaps with some Texas Speed PRC stage 1 243 heads I would expect
400rwhp w/ your mods
-12 deg overlap should idle stock even w/no cats
perhaps with some Texas Speed PRC stage 1 243 heads I would expect
400rwhp w/ your mods
Good suggestion the only things is with those lobes the valvetrain might be more noisy, so we dont know if that is a good choice. The OP really needs to make up his mind if he wants stealth or chop, there is really no cam that does both.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Jacksonville, NC
I wanted the CHEATR V3 because of the stealth but have an underlying motive for it, it makes a good cam for SC applications, since I'll be picking up a used Vortech kit for under 4k.
The reason I wanted a max effort cam is because sometimes you just don't wanna wait to feel a big jump in hp, if I went this route the car would be H/C plus a 150 hit of giggle gas.
I know the second route is cheaper but I think I want a very streetable build that would still make massive power and run some good ETs.
Although I could deal with some bucking and stalling to hit 10s, just depends on how much $$$ it will save.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 117
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Yup, whatever you say bud.Beastmode as I would describe it in a cams term would be very high lift, duration cam on a 109 110 lobe separation, and have a very choppy idle and nasty DD characteristics. Think a T-Rex or MS4.
The biggest I was thinking to go was TR's TRAK, believe it was a 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA, which I don't think would be that harsh considering my stall size and 373s in the rear.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
Yup, whatever you say bud.Beastmode as I would describe it in a cams term would be very high lift, duration cam on a 109 110 lobe separation, and have a very choppy idle and nasty DD characteristics. Think a T-Rex or MS4.
The biggest I was thinking to go was TR's TRAK, believe it was a 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA, which I don't think would be that harsh considering my stall size and 373s in the rear.
The 255/263 .624/.624 115 lsa should sound a little nasty
Yup, whatever you say bud.Beastmode as I would describe it in a cams term would be very high lift, duration cam on a 109 110 lobe separation, and have a very choppy idle and nasty DD characteristics. Think a T-Rex or MS4.
The biggest I was thinking to go was TR's TRAK, believe it was a 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA, which I don't think would be that harsh considering my stall size and 373s in the rear.
there is no beastmode. instead of asking if you should get a choppy cam or a smooth cam (lolololol) maybe you should give us specific engine specs and what you want from your engine and ask us what your valve timing events should be. just a thought.
or ask if you should get a beastmode cam (doesn't "mode" indicate a temporary state? therefore maybe you should get a VVT cam that can be turned on and off!)
Out of your choices i would go with the 228 on a 114. Even though i would suggest going a bit bigger as you will probably be amazed how stock a 228 should drive as long as your tune is spot on. The trak cam i believe is a 231/234 but the lift is pretty huge. So youll have to swap out springs quite often. But out of those for sure the 228. Very popular cam for sure!