Judd

iTrader: (1)

My M1 two cents.
Just did a cam swap at 40K miles and there were no deposits at all, not even any staining. The guy that was doing the cam swap commented on the cleanliness of the motor and the fact that the cam chain was in great shape. He told me that it didn't really need replacing but since I had already bought it, we put it in anyway. Cam, rockers, valve guides,,, all looked great. I beat on the engine pretty hard.

BTW, I have no oil consumption problems at all, none. It might use a qrt. or so in 7K miles. The most it's ever used was around 1.5 qrts in about 3K miles. That interval had around 25 1/4 mile runs and about the amount of autoX runs. Any engine uses more oil in those conditions.

I changed to M1 0W30 at the 500 mile mark and have been using it ever since untill my last oil chage, I switched to 0W40. Although I'm quite happy with the way M1 has worked for me, I think I'll be changing to Castrol 0W30 since seeing soo many great oil reports.

Saying all that, I really think any good oil will give the same results,,, even supposedly inferior "dino" oil- if you change it often enough. The way I look at it is that running synthetic {good synthetic} lets you go longer between changes and may be marginally better in severe circumstances such as if oil temps went real high. I have 6 vehicles and I use M1 in all, either 10W30, 0W40 or Delvac 1 {well now maybe Castrol Ow30}.

I just don't want to be changing oil all the time and synthetic helps me on that issue.

Patman

After a cam swap, do an oil change with cheap oil almost right away (after a short drive) and then do another after 100 to 200 mi. I would then do the next one around 500, still with cheap oil, then at 2 or 3k, go to synthetic.

The synthetics I recommend are Castrol 0w30 (German made Syntec ONLY, not the US made stuff), Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or Redline 5w30. If you insist on Mobil 1, go with their 0w40 or new 5w40 (although my first line of choices is the better way to go)

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

your cylinders look great

my cylinders had the same look, nice clean crosshatchings, 50k miles w/ abuse EVERY DAY, along w/...... countless bottles of n2o, I only use castrol gtx 20/50 in all my race vehicles.... and everyday vehicles, I've heard alot of talk about better oil this and that for the LS1 but considering the physics of engine bearings and high viscosity's under hard driving the 20/50 will protect beond the breakdown point of weaker oils, my climate also has something to do with it.

btw, NEVER use royal purple, I've had a friend seize about 4 bike engines from that stuff, before he realized the oil wuz the problem, he changed oils and hasnt had any problems since!

LS1derfull

Patman, the factory does program LS1's on rich side, this is because they cant force various customers to use premium fuel and with 10.1 to 1 compression, extra fuel acts as insurance against detonation. This causes easy carbon buildup in low speed and idling conditions. Second very low tension metric ring set allows more oil into chamber, this adds to carbon build up, but also allows less wear in bore because of extra lubrication. All aluminum construction of LS1 also adds to carbon buildup condition because of greater thermal transfer especially thru area of combustion chamber. Hypereutectic oem pistons run hotter because of less thermal transfer to cylinder during operation, this is a positive feature responsible for extra power and efficiency. Oil consumption is directly related to LS1 oil scraper rings drag tension loss from 13 lbs. pull to 11 lbs. after around 20k miles. This is GM engineering miss calculation, but good air pump evac system will add much power and control oil consumption completely. Piston skirt collapse is responsible for slap in LS1 motors, this falls under same OEM misscalculation but as in my case is very livable and worth slightly more power WOT due to less skirt drap at hi rpm. Patman can you tell me how to know for sure which Syntec is German made? Available at Autozone?

Navy David SS

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Patman.

On the Castrol, does it state 'MADE IN GERMANY' on the bottle?

****, at a 1/4 at a time 100 miles will take me a while . The SS doesn't have street friendly exhaust (the cops would love to catch me on the streets ).

So, would this be OK: put in cheap ****; do initial heat cycles (I plan on using a dyno for the initial "road" test); change oil to make cheap stuff; run as much as possible - possibly go to back road; than change to syntec ?

Thanks again. I really don't have any type of performance shop in our area . I don't have the time or patients to do all the mods coming this summer, so I have to (believe it or not) rely on an import expert to do the work.

David

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Ahh ..... there you go generalizing again. I never saw any thinning with the analysis I done done while using RP 41. (3 intervals during 10K miles)

Patman

Probably because RP41 is a true synthetic, while the 5w30 and 10w30 are actually blends. Ask RP's technical reps and they will confirm this.

As far as the German 0w30, the label on the back will say made in Germany instead of made in USA, plus it will list a bunch of European specs it passes such as ACEA A3, BMW longlife, Porsche approved, etc.

robertbartsch

A certain person claiming to be an oil expert once bad-mouthed Royal Purple so much the company gave him a free case in exchange for not discussing the product on the Net.

I use M1 and had an oil anaysis done by Blackstone labs 6K miles after a head and cam swap...I did not tell them what oil I used, however, so they analysis would not contain bias by the analyst (...hey, if they hate Royal Purple they will tell you your analysis sucks). Anyway, the analysis was very good.

I did notice that the crosshatch marks on my bores were gone at 38K miles. The engine does not burn oil, does not suck oil into the intake and runs very strong....

I just bought a compression testor and a set of leak-down guages so I will check my motor and report the results...

I change oil as often as most change their undies, however....

robertbartsch

I notice that you have the same shinny ring one half inch below the top of the deck....I had the same ring at 38K miles....my neighbor, who is a Snap-On salesman, said the ring in the cylnder is not good...

...I think this ring on the cylinder is where the top piston ring stops at top dead center...

...anyone have any ideas on this comment?

Patman

Another certain person is very ******* confused! How many times do I have to tell you that there was no agreement not to discuss RP on the net? They simply sent me oil to test and said that after I used it I could discuss it all I want, but until I used it they felt I had no basis for bad mouthing it. After I used it, I found it to be terrible in my wife's car, so I don't recommend it.

When are you going to get a clue Robert? I'm so sick of your lies and bullshit. Are you ever going to contribute anything useful to this site or what?

Patman

Let me be the judge of that. Post those results here and I'll tell you my honest opinion on how they look.

Automag928

Thanks for the info Patman! Is there any particular place to get the German Castrol 0w30 vs the made in USA stuff? Thanks again!

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

That's a tough diagnosis to make regarding Mobil-1, given you may have been using their crappy "Tri Synthetic" formulation for a significant portion of that engine's life.

That said, I don't use Mobil-1 either. I also gave up on Royal Purple after observing their Racing 21 oil thinning noticeably after hard road-course useage...idle oil pressure was suddenly ~20psi instead of the usual 30psi, even the day after the race. I switched to Amsoil, no further issues even running Pocono in the heat of Summer.

Patman

So far the only place it's been spotted in the US has been Autozone.

In Canada it's at almost every Walmart and a few Canadian Tire locations too.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

I have owned my '99 Z28 since it was new. I have also used Mobil 1 10W-30 since the first oil change and I have never changed the oil before the "oil change" light illuminates. This usually occurs around 8000 miles. I have run as much as a TNT 150 shot on the car and it also has a 218/224 comp cam so it has seen its share of the 6700 rpm limit. When I put the cam in, I was absloultely amazed at the cleanliness of the engine. It now has 112,500 miles, original timechain, oil pump, every internal engine component with the exception of the cam pushrods and springs.....still runs mid 12's on motor The first vehicle I used mobil 1 in was my 92 chevy 4*4, I got rid of it when it had 172,000 miles on the clock....... Also Im far from an easy driver with my vehicles but I do very meticulous maintenance. Ill will not use another oil......