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resizing cracked-cap LS rods ?

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Old May 11, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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Default resizing cracked-cap LS rods ?

Hey guys n gals , I was told by 1 machine shop that You could'nt resize these rods but You could bore them out a little ,,,,,like .002" and use under-size bearings . I don't know that would'nt be right because the bearing would be thicker toward the inside and the rod would be bigger toward the outside . Or is there a decent deal on stock new rods from a sponsor ? ??? What do You know on this subject ,,,,,,,,,,I know very little concerning LS rods ,,,,Thanx
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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:19 AM
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Boring the big end such a miniscule amount is not going to measurably reduce the strength of the rod. If you were turning 6800 before, then you can still turn 6800 after.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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According to KCS's reply to powerofone (stock ls rod resizing), Clevite makes a bearing just for .002 resized rods (#1776-P).
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Old May 12, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by LS 63 Nova
According to KCS's reply to powerofone (stock ls rod resizing), Clevite makes a bearing just for .002 resized rods (#1776-P).
Thats right, the bearing is meant for a .002" larger housing bore so it retains an adequate amount of crush.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Good , thanx for the replies , I do appreciate it .
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Old May 15, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Thats right, the bearing is meant for a .002" larger housing bore so it retains an adequate amount of crush.
Good info
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Old May 10, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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Arrow Could use opinions!

I recently got an engine came from a guy that road raced it exclusively. None of the rod bearing shells have any crush left in them, yet the shells look OK except for minor burnishing at the parting line area. These are early rods (pressed pins) with ARP 8740 bolts. There are no locator dowels and the caps fit kinda loose. The shells are marked FM2555A - STD. I don't think this is normal and am trying to determine whether these are salvageable.

Thanks!
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Old May 11, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I recently got an engine came from a guy that road raced it exclusively. None of the rod bearing shells have any crush left in them, yet the shells look OK except for minor burnishing at the parting line area. These are early rods (pressed pins) with ARP 8740 bolts. There are no locator dowels and the caps fit kinda loose. The shells are marked FM2555A - STD. I don't think this is normal and am trying to determine whether these are salvageable.

Thanks!
I can pretty much guarantee those rods have seen some hard use. I would look for a stock piston and rod set for about $200. Or just go big and upgrade to the forged stuff.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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S10xgn, I'd get them Mic'd to see if they were resized and then just had std bearing put back in.....you MIGHT get lucky.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mark21742
S10xgn, I'd get them Mic'd to see if they were resized and then just had std bearing put back in.....you MIGHT get lucky.
That's on my list for tomorrow, spent today prepping the guest bathroom for new floor tile on Monday...
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Old May 13, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by LS 63 Nova
According to KCS's reply to powerofone (stock ls rod resizing), Clevite makes a bearing just for .002 resized rods (#1776-P).
i bought a 6.0 long block with a bad headgasket and im going to check the bearings before i run it and i plan on putting a turbo on it too so i planned on putting arp rod bolts in it and was told the rods would have to be resized , could i use the arp rod bolts and just get the rods bored .002 over and buy .002 bearings and be safe?
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Old May 13, 2012 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 1988montecarloss
i bought a 6.0 long block with a bad headgasket and im going to check the bearings before i run it and i plan on putting a turbo on it too so i planned on putting arp rod bolts in it and was told the rods would have to be resized , could i use the arp rod bolts and just get the rods bored .002 over and buy .002 bearings and be safe?
Yep. Whether you are using ARP's or not, the correct way to resize the cracked cap rods is to hone the ID oversized and use the correct bearing.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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One thing that I have noticed is that by the time you spend around $100 for the new rod bolts and a $100 to get the rods resized plus the over sized bearings, you could have gone to Flatlander Racing a got some Scat I beams for roughly the same cost and probably have a stronger rod.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TiGer85SS
One thing that I have noticed is that by the time you spend around $100 for the new rod bolts and a $100 to get the rods resized plus the over sized bearings, you could have gone to Flatlander Racing a got some Scat I beams for roughly the same cost and probably have a stronger rod.
Bingo.....completely agree.

By the time you resize the rod properly with the better bolts so you actually have a better than OEM solution, your within $100 of an aftermarket rod or less and the aftermarket rod has a much better ARP cap screw and better steel. Its alot stronger than an OEM rod, even the budget stuff thats out there.

Saves a bunch of time as well and thats worth $$$ also

Go aftermarket in this department (unless your racing in a class that prohibits that)....it just makes more sense

-Tony
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Old May 13, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
Bingo.....completely agree.

By the time you resize the rod properly with the better bolts so you actually have a better than OEM solution, your within $100 of an aftermarket rod or less and the aftermarket rod has a much better ARP cap screw and better steel. Its alot stronger than an OEM rod, even the budget stuff thats out there.

Saves a bunch of time as well and thats worth $$$ also

Go aftermarket in this department (unless your racing in a class that prohibits that)....it just makes more sense

-Tony
the rods come with good bolts? and where are you finding forged rods for $300-ish? the cheapest ones im finding are $500 and would the aftermarket rods be ready to have bearings put in them and have them put on?

edit: nevermind that^ answered my own questions haha, would i need the .927" wrist pin rods or the .944" wrist pin rods, i would be reusing the stock pistons

Last edited by 1988montecarloss; May 13, 2012 at 11:44 PM.
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Old May 15, 2012 | 05:51 AM
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The "WS6-Store.com has Scat I-beams rods 6.1" with 7/16" ARP cap screws in either pin end size and they also have the same LS rods in 6.125" length either set for $ 284 unless They've gone up recently . I believe the .945" pin size is 4 the older 1997-2004 pistons and the newer is the .927" .
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Old May 15, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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i got to thinking too, if i get the new i-beam rods wont i have to get the rotating assembly re-balanced? any idea how much that would cost?
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Old May 22, 2012 | 04:28 AM
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anybody?
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Old May 22, 2012 | 05:14 AM
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Yes you need to get it rebalanced, but I can't remember how muck it cost me off hand.
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Old May 22, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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It will depends on the shop, but some will charge less if you already have your bobweight calculated. I paid a little over $100.
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