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Comp cams 222/224 112

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Old May 21, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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Default Comp cams 222/224 112

Hey peeps first post here, had a buddy try and find cam info for me and i have now read the stickies understand some more, and personally called Comp Cams for advice

The ride - 1998 Camaro A4 LS1 (lid, k&n, 80mm TB, bbk headers & y pipe, 3" exhaust back, Daily driver in nice months, mostly street maybe a strip use once and a great moon)

Was told by the tech to get the 222/224 112, and also some beehive springs and 7.4" pushrods to tag along with the cam.

Wondering if there are people running this combo with similar mods, any videos, thoughts on cam, such?! thanks
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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If you're running the stock converter, that's a decent cam to use but I'd run it on a 114LSA. It will make for a much smoother idle with the stock converter and won't want to pull through the converter when stopped.

A 7.4 pushrod is incorrect. A camshaft's base circle has to be shrunk for the larger lobes, therefor a longer pushrod is required. For that cam a 7.425 should get you where you need to be. You can buy the Trick Flow pushrods through summit for $86 + shipping.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 10:19 AM
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It is a nice, mild street cam and can be used on 112lca - at a stretch, but with some pushing on the brake - without a stall converter, although a tight 2800-3200rpm converter really makes it sing.

A few blokes over here have this cam fitted and I had one fitted to my M6 as my first ever cam.

cheers
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Old May 22, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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if you can down load comps cam quest for free,you can try different cams with your combo and see what they do. a computer cam program is no where as good for picking cams as a good engine builder ,but you can learn more about cams from it.you probably better off to buy a complete cam pkg(cam,push rods,springs),you get a better with a pkg deal then buying each piece separate.thunder racing has a good price on cam pkgs,or look at a TSP cam kit.I like the comp cam 54-455-11,it should work with a stock converter and it makes torque.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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ok so in my research i have seen lots and lots of talk of throwing a stall into the mix with such cams, whats the reason for a stall in this case? somewhat of a noob question i know but any help is nice, thanks so far on the comments guys
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Old May 22, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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I would get in touch with Pat G and see what he would recommend, he could spec exactly what you are looking for and he responds very quickly.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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A higher stall converter gets the motor up into your cams torque curve faster. Makes for much better 60' times and much more fun to drive.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by oakley6575
A higher stall converter gets the motor up into your cams torque curve faster. Makes for much better 60' times and much more fun to drive.
thank you for the good answer oakley!

Any ideas on a stall for the setup that doesnt cost crazy amounts?
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Old May 22, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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Most on here will tell you 3200-3600 range for TOTAL streetability.
3800-4200 for the larger cam engines. This is not a cheep mod, however
the improvement will be huge even if the cam swap has to wait for funds.
Also a stall converter opens up (broadens) your choice of cam selection.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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was looking through thunder racings site at the cam packages which are fairly good, with springs rods and the cam for $600 is prety fair.

My question is now with the Thunder Racing Cam system, i was looking at the 224/227 114lsa with said kit, anyone with these kits got any info for me?!

also looking for cheap stall upgrade advice as well
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Old May 24, 2011 | 12:24 AM
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TCI is on the more inexpensive side of torque converters and i've heard they're pretty reliable. vigilante and yank converters are a little more expensive but a lot of people swear by them. i ran a 3400 stall from fuddle (who i don't think even exists anymore) for years on my old DD without any problems. it was fun as hell on the street and really woke the car up, and i just had bolt-ons (ran mid 12's at the track). i'd say anywhere from 3200-3600 is a safe bet for a daily driver. a lot of ppl who get sub-3200 stalls end up wishing they had gone bigger later (i guess the same goes for cams too).
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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thanks 98trans, my buddy has a 2500 stall sitting around for cheap, something like that wouldnt be alright enough to run?

also still looking for Thunder Racing Cam info plz
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Old May 24, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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Your not going to see good gains without a stall. Go to Circle D converters. He sales a 3000 Stall for $400 and he makes great converters. I cut .6 tenths with just a stall change. A cam will not even get you that
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Old May 25, 2011 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by z99ls1
Your not going to see good gains without a stall. Go to Circle D converters. He sales a 3000 Stall for $400 and he makes great converters. I cut .6 tenths with just a stall change. A cam will not even get you that
yep a stall by itself will make you explode out of the hole. a stall + a cam is the perfect combo though, it's like a lighter + dynamite the stock stall in an A4 is 1600 just so you can use that as a bench mark
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Old May 25, 2011 | 07:10 AM
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check the sponsor sales section ,some one mite have a converter sale soon .
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