I don't know if it's cause I don't have a dyno tune, all I have is a mail ordee tune from TSP but I get alot of surging while crusing at slow slow speeds like at 50mph or like when I shift to a higher gear like 5th it seems to surge or if I let go of the gas pedal it seems to surge while in gear. I noticed when the cam fist went in the the motor shakes almost as if it is missing at idle. I did notice a plug wire looked a bit funny when doing the cam, but upon start up I noticed that it was burning oil from the smoke coming out the back not alot just a tad of blue smoke. The thing I dont get is when the cam was stock it did not smoke maybe cause I put a HP oil pump frolm Melling. Anyways I get my plug wires from jegs lets see if that cures the problem. Any opinions or suggestions.

 

If that cam is like 232/234, it definitely needs to be FULL tuned..not just WOT
dynoed. The fuel trims need to be considerably changed so the computer
understands the new change (cam). Thirty degrees more duration than stock
is letting alot more air in which right now the computer maybe thinks is a Vac.
leak so its trying to send more fuel. Too rich condition can wash the cylinders
and cause it to smoke

 

Tune it properly. Mail tunes are just enough to get you to a shop.

 

Yah man I have a dyno tune on my V2 but there is still surging at low speeds low RPM, it BARELY surges, like its not really noticeable honestly unless you know what to listen for. Can't really see a surge on the tach, just a slight twitch but I can hear it more than anything. It really doesnt bother me and I don't think it is that big of a deal in my case. I hear it is common, and I am assuming that there are a lot of factors that come to play. Mine didnt surge till till I got to NC, car was tuned in TX so maybe the drive and weather change affected the tune?

 

I disagree with that. I hear more bad things about dyno shops than I do about mail order tunes. I am sure most will agree a dyno tune is better, but I wouldn't say a mail order tune is only good enuf to get you to a shop

 

^^AGREED, Especially a mail order tune for a cam that is from one of the largest suppliers of LS camshafts in the country. TSP knows their cams so I think a mail order tune from them would be halfway decent.

 

It is still somewhat a free country and you have the right to disagree. Dyno tuning is just part of a tune, good shops will do street tuning as well

 

 

I know a good shop is better, but I think mailorder tuners are very good. Think about how many cammed cars they tune. I think they can get it pretty damn close after doing hundreds of them. I just don't like when it's said a mailorder tune is only good for getting it to the dyno shop. My cammed lt1 car drove and ran damn good with a mailorder tune. For an lt1 anyways..

 

I used to think so myself when I did not know any better. When I bought tuning software, the truth became evident, WOT was ~ok, but it took me quite a few hours to work out the other bugs. Test/tune/retest/retune andsooooo...on

 

hahah

 

WOT dyno-tunes dont do anything for normal driving conditions, which is why when i get cars tuned i use my local guy and we go and actually tune the car to different driving situations, from cruising to half-throttle to WOT and other situations in between, a good tuner is worth his cost, cant comment on mail-order tunes cause i never had one but i know of other people who have had plenty of dyno-tunes and their cars didnt have very good normal driving condition manners, JMO

 

To me, coming from NZ it seems strange that you guys have a dyno that just does wot tuning, why? apart from a 'non' street driven drag car that requires bugger all else, whats the point?
If an engine in a street car needs tuning it needs to be tuned for all conditions like you've said.
Those that are so adamant that a mail order tune is fully ok for them, must be leaving a lot of drivability on the table.
All engines with the same cam are not created equal, full tuning is always required.

For us here, all our tuning shops have a twin rear wheel roller or a twin front & rear for 4 wheel drive. This is what we call a Dyno tune, we do not differentiate between wot & street tune.
There are some that have a Hub Dyno, this requires the wheels to be off & the hubs connected to a box type configuration. This type gives no slippage of tyres on rollers or the need to be strapped down, also gives the tuner & car owner an accurate HP reading & parameters to work to.

 

I have a street tune and a V2. My tuner spent an hour and a half fine tuning the drivability in almost every scenario. The car used to want to buck slightly between 1500-1700rpms. I only noticed it in first if If I was actually trying to cruise the car in that RPM window. I forget if he said he added or pulled timing in that window, but it helped. After going to 411's, I almost can't even make it happen if I try. So, a V2 will want to buck if your tuner doesn't beat it into submission. The only downside of a street tune is no bragging rights with dyno numbers.

 

I do not race at the dyno, frankly I've only started using dynos, kinda like Saint Thomas; I like to finally SEE what she is doing, but I do not make it my 'measuring' tool. I prefer measuring car length

 

I like this