Sparkplugs! Im pissed!!!!!
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
Sparkplugs! Im pissed!!!!! why in the ****! would someone wait to change plugs on these type of cars?
Because today I just did the air/egr delete mod and i shipped my PCM off to FROST also....and i have the hood off cause im changing hoods i figured with the room i would go ahead and change plugs.
well!!! after fighting to remove the wires off 3 and 5 i finally got them off but the metal shield came with them and i dont think they are going back in...some little spring is on the end of them.
anyways, then i go to take the plugs out and who ever the **** put them in either wrenched down on them or didnt put plug lube on or they are the OEM plugs and have been in there for the last 12 years just cooked to the heads and I had to literally use a breaker bar on #5
I am so scared im gonna break one off in the head then i'll really be screwed!!
The plugs are NGK PTR5C-13 and they are gapped @65 well im sure they did start out that way cause their really is no point left on the plugs
Im putting NGK TR5GP's ....what do i gap them at?
i need to get some new plug wires.......what about the shields? what if they continue to come out...am i gonna have to use wire heat shields?
is there anything i can do to ease up on the tightness of the plugs?
i swear! im so freakin pissed!
thanks for letting me vent!
LOOK!!!!
Because today I just did the air/egr delete mod and i shipped my PCM off to FROST also....and i have the hood off cause im changing hoods i figured with the room i would go ahead and change plugs.
well!!! after fighting to remove the wires off 3 and 5 i finally got them off but the metal shield came with them and i dont think they are going back in...some little spring is on the end of them.
anyways, then i go to take the plugs out and who ever the **** put them in either wrenched down on them or didnt put plug lube on or they are the OEM plugs and have been in there for the last 12 years just cooked to the heads and I had to literally use a breaker bar on #5
I am so scared im gonna break one off in the head then i'll really be screwed!!
The plugs are NGK PTR5C-13 and they are gapped @65 well im sure they did start out that way cause their really is no point left on the plugs
Im putting NGK TR5GP's ....what do i gap them at?
i need to get some new plug wires.......what about the shields? what if they continue to come out...am i gonna have to use wire heat shields?
is there anything i can do to ease up on the tightness of the plugs?
i swear! im so freakin pissed!
thanks for letting me vent!
LOOK!!!!
Last edited by stroked383HSR; Jul 29, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
yep! their all coming out like this...1 and 7 ..so that whole side has come off like that.
still havent tried to remove the plugs.
is this normal? and no im not grabbing the shield at all...im having to wiggle and pull "HARD" on the wire.
still havent tried to remove the plugs.
is this normal? and no im not grabbing the shield at all...im having to wiggle and pull "HARD" on the wire.
Go ahead and try to spray a lil penetrating oil on the plugs, let it sit while you calm down. I would just go ahead and buy the msd wires, they are rally the best for these cars. No stupid sheilds to worry about either. Gap your plugs at around .035 -.040 thats tighter than stock, but you are not running the irridium plugs any more. I run the tr6 plugs gapped there, no problems. Opinions will vary on gap. Wh en you put the plugs in put anti seize on threads, and some dielectric grease in the ends of the plug wires. I dont know if you have headers,, but another benefit besides the power gain, is it sure makes getting those plugs easier. Hope this helps
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Virgina Beach
Then you'll try to figure out how to get the ac box out of the way to make it easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side haha. You're just dealing with what everyone does the first time they try to do plugs on these cars. That's when everyone figures out why they're quoted 500$ to change the plugs on these cars at a shop. First time I changed the plugs it took me 30 mins on the drivers side and 2 hours on the passenger side.
Then you'll try to figure out how to get the ac box out of the way to make it easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side haha. You're just dealing with what everyone does the first time they try to do plugs on these cars. That's when everyone figures out why they're quoted 500$ to change the plugs on these cars at a shop. First time I changed the plugs it took me 30 mins on the drivers side and 2 hours on the passenger side.
why in the ****! would someone wait to change plugs on these type of cars?
Because today I just did the air/egr delete mod and i shipped my PCM off to FROST also....and i have the hood off cause im changing hoods i figured with the room i would go ahead and change plugs.
well!!! after fighting to remove the wires off 3 and 5 i finally got them off but the metal shield came with them and i dont think they are going back in...some little spring is on the end of them.
anyways, then i go to take the plugs out and who ever the **** put them in either wrenched down on them or didnt put plug lube on or they are the OEM plugs and have been in there for the last 12 years just cooked to the heads and I had to literally use a breaker bar on #5
I am so scared im gonna break one off in the head then i'll really be screwed!!
The plugs are NGK PTR5C-13 and they are gapped @65 well im sure they did start out that way cause their really is no point left on the plugs
Im putting NGK TR5GP's ....what do i gap them at?
i need to get some new plug wires.......what about the shields? what if they continue to come out...am i gonna have to use wire heat shields?
is there anything i can do to ease up on the tightness of the plugs?
i swear! im so freakin pissed!
thanks for letting me vent!
LOOK!!!!
Because today I just did the air/egr delete mod and i shipped my PCM off to FROST also....and i have the hood off cause im changing hoods i figured with the room i would go ahead and change plugs.
well!!! after fighting to remove the wires off 3 and 5 i finally got them off but the metal shield came with them and i dont think they are going back in...some little spring is on the end of them.
anyways, then i go to take the plugs out and who ever the **** put them in either wrenched down on them or didnt put plug lube on or they are the OEM plugs and have been in there for the last 12 years just cooked to the heads and I had to literally use a breaker bar on #5
I am so scared im gonna break one off in the head then i'll really be screwed!!
The plugs are NGK PTR5C-13 and they are gapped @65 well im sure they did start out that way cause their really is no point left on the plugs
Im putting NGK TR5GP's ....what do i gap them at?
i need to get some new plug wires.......what about the shields? what if they continue to come out...am i gonna have to use wire heat shields?
is there anything i can do to ease up on the tightness of the plugs?
i swear! im so freakin pissed!
thanks for letting me vent!
LOOK!!!!
All you need to do is put them in BY HAND, as tight as you can BY HAND with the socket. Then literally a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, just snug. They will not come out. Use anti-seize also.
.65 gap...holy ****. Not good.
TR55 or TR5 NGK gapped to .050 is best for LSx engines. Bone stock up to 500-600 RWHP......
Don't waste money on special custom wires. Advance Auto $40.00 plug wires are all you need. You will zero performance gains or gas mileage from expensive wires. Put the heat shields onto the new wires for sure.
.
Also...make sure NONE of the plug wires are touching any parts of the metal exhaust manifold piping. You will get misfiring like crazy if they are.
If a wire is touching a pipe after you install it. Grab the boot at the COIL and spin it until the wire lifts off the pipe. Then leave the boot in that position, it will hold it off the pipe forever.
.
If a wire is touching a pipe after you install it. Grab the boot at the COIL and spin it until the wire lifts off the pipe. Then leave the boot in that position, it will hold it off the pipe forever.
.
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take the coil brackets off, takes about 10-15 min and frees up some space. +1 on the MSD wires, way less resistance than the stockers which adds up in the long run. I'm suprised you haven't got more comments on gapping them to this or that. Me personally have always gone with the factory specs, but others will have thier own experiences.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
You're just dealing with what everyone does the first time they try to do plugs on these cars. That's when everyone figures out why they're quoted 500$ to change the plugs on these cars at a shop. First time I changed the plugs it took me 30 mins on the drivers side and 2 hours on the passenger side.
lol i hear ya man!.......ok im calmed down!.....i need plug wires
Im gonna finish the drivers side tomorrow........might wanna take some calm me down pills when i get to #8.....LOL
plug wires are not $40 at advance...more like $70
i'll go up to AZ and see what they charge tomorrow ....or i'll just hit ebay and get some for $40-50.....hell i cant drive the car anyways til i get the PCM back from Frost.
Copper plugs came out and Ive got platinum's...should i take them back? will i be ok with them? I'll gap them at .50 i guess...hell its gotta be better than the .65 .70 the drivers side were.
a lot of sponsors have ngk tr55 and msd wires for cheap. i always take the pass side coil bracket off when i do it. it helps to have headers too a little more room than the stock manifolds. spark plugs now take less than an hour.
+1 on the LT's, also the pass side bracket is the only one you really need to take off. I just bought a set of wires from amazon for about $55. They were for my 4.8L but they are basicaly the same.
I bought allot of little **** the past few weeks, preventative maintenance type ****. I get things at Advance Auto and sometimes PepBoys. I actually got my wires at PepBoys....sorry.
$40.00...actually $39.99 Lifetime Warranty
And Advance Auto does sell wires for about the same price, at least around here they do. I know allot of people on here lie, I don't....I just made a mistake at which place I got those.
Anyway, I've used these ProStarts on my 427ci for 8 years....they are perfect. These are replacing those 8 year old ProStart wires.
I;m installing these and new spark plugs this weekend.
.
$40.00...actually $39.99 Lifetime Warranty
And Advance Auto does sell wires for about the same price, at least around here they do. I know allot of people on here lie, I don't....I just made a mistake at which place I got those.
Anyway, I've used these ProStarts on my 427ci for 8 years....they are perfect. These are replacing those 8 year old ProStart wires.
I;m installing these and new spark plugs this weekend.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Jul 29, 2011 at 10:22 PM.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
ive got a AZ, Advance, pep boys and oriley's right across from eachother...i will check all of them tomorrow and find those damn $40.00 wires. lol
thanks for the heads up!
thanks for the heads up!
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when installing the new plugs, install them finger tite with a drop of antiseze.apply 10ftlb to seat.use some grease on the wire boots if reusing the heat shields.you get the back plug passenger side from down under .did you remove the coil packs on the right side.take more beerzack.
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From: Murrell's Inlet, SC
thats good to know....yeah i just found out that its normal for the metal shield to come out with the plug boot.
hmmm...the majority of the people run TR55's gapped at .50
why does no one run a platinum plug?
im taking these plugs i got back and trading them in on TR55's
hmmm...the majority of the people run TR55's gapped at .50
why does no one run a platinum plug?
im taking these plugs i got back and trading them in on TR55's
Running TR55s and using the gap that they came set at. Did you remove the coilpack brackets? It was nearly impossible without removing my coilpack brackets. After that, it was a breeze lol. If your can find a set of MSD wires, those are the way to go. The ends are high temp silicone(no heat shields needed) and flexable so you can bend them around the headers.
