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Best cam for daily driver

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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #21  
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FWIW, I recommend trying to stay under 0.57 lift so you can use OEM LS3/LS6 springs, not worry about changing them every year or whatever. Also reliable, cheap and readily available on fleabay CL, or the forum classifieds.

Here's an article outlining different cams from comp, with increasingly more aggressive profiles for comparison. For me, a DD means you should me looking for the greatest margin across the entire powerband, not just what is delivered over 5500 rpm. I bought the XR265hr 54-424-11 with LS3 yellow springs in my 2000 WS6 am pretty happy with it, large, broad, mostly flat torque curve with a solid 10-15 HP gain from 1200 RPM upward, and still pulls well away from stock above 6000. It just depends what you want to accomplish and how you will drive with it. But if it's a DD, consider where you'll spend 99.995% of your time operating in the powerband.

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...en3/index.html
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bmf5150
I went with a 228r from Texas speed,love it
same here got the 228r with a 112 lsa and it drives awesome with great low end..
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #23  
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As Paul57 said, low end torque makes a fun street car.

I'd stay under a 224 duration or that EPS cam of 222/226 .

I went to a smaller duration more lift ( like the eps lobes ) it's a blast to drive.

Even the smaller cam has it's little quirks.

I have a good used 222/224 or 222/226 I don't remember. I think the lift is .56x.

I have the cam specs on my home pc. Pm me if your interested.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 06:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by z99ls1
Domt get a small cam just because u dont want to pit a stall in. If you dont have the money for a stall or dont plan on installing one soon after than a cam swap is not for you. I dropped 6 tenths with my stall alOne. Get atleast a 2800 stall from circle d for $400 bucks and a 224r cam kit and it will be very quick. Bigger cam with stock stall sucks dick. Ive been through it and its the biggest waist of time. You will be out of powerband everytime u shift
It will be getting tune right after the cam so I'm not to worried about stall
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Rbnsky
It will be getting tune right after the cam so I'm not to worried about stall
That is good Ruben, but he meant a hi stall converter, not the car stalling
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 12:08 PM
  #26  
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I went with the EPS 222/226 .596/.598 114 LSA and Im still using the stock stall. Its a blast to drive! Im running stock manifold and exhaust manifolds through SLP LM1 and havent had any issues
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by uLs1a
I went with the EPS 222/226 .596/.598 114 LSA and Im still using the stock stall. Its a blast to drive! Im running stock manifold and exhaust manifolds through SLP LM1 and havent had any issues
maybe no issues but sh** for power.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is good Ruben, but he meant a hi stall converter, not the car stalling
lolz
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
maybe no issues but sh** for power.
Agreed^^
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rbnsky
It will be getting tune right after the cam so I'm not to worried about stall
No im telling you that you need to get a torque/stall converter in your transmission before you put a cam in. Than you can actuallly get the cam you want instead of getting one to get by on the stock stall. What your trying to do is dumb and ur not going to be happy. Good luck
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