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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Default rebuild or new engine?

Ive been speaking with tick performance and just got to wondering would it make more sense to get my 99 SS with 116k rebuilt im wanting the polluter cam installed and few other accessories. or would it make more sense to get a newer engine in the ls family? just curious and open to a few ideas
thanks
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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I often thought about the same thing and I would go with a stroked LS2 crate short block.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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you have any place u would get one from that ud recommend??
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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I looked at Scoggin Dickey, Texas Speed etc. also I googled and came up with other places. I'm sure other people will recommend other places.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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junk yard lq9 + forged 408 stroker kit...
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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What should be the compression on a ls6 block
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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depends on what your wanting to do... are you asking what the stock compression is?
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jameswoodlee
Ive been speaking with tick performance and just got to wondering would it make more sense to get my 99 SS with 116k rebuilt im wanting the polluter cam installed and few other accessories. or would it make more sense to get a newer engine in the ls family? just curious and open to a few ideas
thanks
No reason to do anything with the engine itself, there is nothing wrong at all about installing a cam at that mileage. Many many many people have done heads, cam, spray, you name it... with that many miles or more.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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sweet i think ill just go that route being its cheaper than buying a new one.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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I would do a compression test to check your engine. If it's good and so is the oil pressure I don't see any reason to have it rebuilt unless you are wanting to put forged pistons in it or stroke it. Just my .02
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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134k ms4 here
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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If it were me. I would go all new shortblock and build around the goal on mind. I just did heads cam lifters etc at 112k and spun a bearing. Now building a 370 for boost. Couldn't be happier.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mpatton
If it were me. I would go all new shortblock and build around the goal on mind. I just did heads cam lifters etc at 112k and spun a bearing. Now building a 370 for boost. Couldn't be happier.
Bearings don't spin because you did a cam, something else is wrong. The most common problem is people raise the rev limiter too high and the rod bolts stretch.

Rebuilding won't help with that issue either unless you do stronger rod bolts and/or forged rods.

Lot's of bad info in this thread.


OP to ease your mind call one of the sponsors here that do swaps all year long and ask them if they have any problems...


Here is a thread a couple down from yours, more people chimed in on how they did cam etc at higher mileage and have no issues. With the setup you are going to go with, RPM's or a poorly put together setup is the only thing that is going to break it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post15375571


Also why the polluter cam? What's your power goal and how much are you willing to spend? If I were doing a cam that big I would be also looking into heads, intake etc to support that cam.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 11, 2011 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jameswoodlee
Ive been speaking with tick performance and just got to wondering would it make more sense to get my 99 SS with 116k rebuilt im wanting the polluter cam installed and few other accessories. or would it make more sense to get a newer engine in the ls family? just curious and open to a few ideas
thanks
You can always do like I did and buy a new block and build your own stroker motor. I payed a machine shop to machine the block for me then I did the rest.. My motor is going to tune next week. I built the entire short block for just under $3500.00 including machine work.. BTW this was the first engine I've ever built but I didn't just throw things together. I made sure I did everything right and checked all 3-4 times after doing it.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 07:41 AM
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If you plan on keeping the car then its time for a rebuild. The lowest I've been quoted for a head cam change is $1900, SD sold me a new 2004 CTS-v LS6 longblock for $3245 (12-12K warr.) with the updated rod bolts, Timing chain etc. shipped (only about $1300 diff) and with some minor tweaks and a great tune it's putting down 390rwhp.

You put a cam in you will spin it harder, You spin it harder it will break. With just boltons F body LSx's seem to have major problems @ around 165k = Oiling, seals, bearings etc. Mine let go at 167k.

I can't think of anything LSx parts wise that did'nt get better after the LS1 Not that the LS1 was bad but alot of advances happen in 12 years.
Just my 2c.

Last edited by Anthony Williams; Sep 11, 2011 at 07:58 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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00pooterss.... yes I know what u are saying. I never said that was the reason I just simply stated what I had happen. Im just saying with that many miles if you have the.money put in all new **** that's all.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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After seeing what my bores and bearings looked like in the 130k mile lq9 that I rebuilt, I wouldn't hesitate to run a 100k+ mile ls after a quick inspection.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthony Williams
If you plan on keeping the car then its time for a rebuild. The lowest I've been quoted for a head cam change is $1900, SD sold me a new 2004 CTS-v LS6 longblock for $3245 (12-12K warr.) with the updated rod bolts, Timing chain etc. shipped (only about $1300 diff) and with some minor tweaks and a great tune it's putting down 390rwhp.

You put a cam in you will spin it harder, You spin it harder it will break. With just boltons F body LSx's seem to have major problems @ around 165k = Oiling, seals, bearings etc. Mine let go at 167k.
I can't think of anything LSx parts wise that did'nt get better after the LS1 Not that the LS1 was bad but alot of advances happen in 12 years.
Just my 2c.
This is one of the dumbest posts I have ever read. I make around 360 to the tires and have a big stall and gears. I have beat the crap out of the car daily since I owned it. It now has 188k miles and the motor is still a beast. And you DO NOT SPIN IT HARDER BECAUSE YOU PUT IN A CAM, you spin it "harder" if you raise the rev limiter, the answer is so blatantly simple DON'T RAISE IT!! If you do only raise it a little. And if you have to raise the rev limiter to make power with the cam you put in then you bought the wrong cam for your setup! Pic a cam that works within your RPM/setup limits.

That being said mine is set at 6800, quite a bit higher than necessary and it still has no issues, but im not in here spreading incorrect info about what blows a motor either. I know I may pop mine due to the raised rev limiter, but I accept that.

Originally Posted by mpatton
00pooterss.... yes I know what u are saying. I never said that was the reason I just simply stated what I had happen. Im just saying with that many miles if you have the.money put in all new **** that's all.
Sure if you have the money then why not, but it is in no way needed.

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
After seeing what my bores and bearings looked like in the 130k mile lq9 that I rebuilt, I wouldn't hesitate to run a 100k+ mile ls after a quick inspection.
Winner winner chicken dinner!
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 06:42 PM
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well what im getting done is the polluer cam new intake new chain full exhaust headers all the way back. just want the car to sound and run alot better. car will not be ran at the track or anything like that. i said the polluter cam just because thats what was recommended to me
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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I put a torquer v3 cam in mine at 107k with no problems. Throw In a ported oil pump while your in there. I did and my oil pressure raised by about 20psi. I'm also going to be installing a D1SC procharger at 8psi on and the car has 111k on it now. So **** it. If it blows up, rebuild it then.
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