6.0 budget build
bottom end: as of right now i want to put ARP bolts in the bottom end but other than that leave it stock bc i cant spend a ton on it at the moment.
heads: should i go with the ls1 heads? or leave the stock 6.0 heads on?
cam and intake: should i toss my ls1 on or find a ls6? is the ms3 or 4 kit ok for a cam choice?
oil pump: i have no idea what i should get? suggestions?
as far as the injectors and pullies go. i will need everything from my ls1 right? injectors and pullies right?
i guess im just needing some info on what i need to do the swap...im new to ls1s still

Plus I don't recommend installing rod bolts nor do I install rod bolts w/o a rod bolt stretch Gage. But that's just me. I have a heads,cam,pr deal u may be interested for that 6.0.
Made some good power thru a built 60e.
Heads: what LS1 heads do you have? 241's? any work done to them? if they are then re-using them may be a good choice
Cam: I would invest in a newer cam kit, i know money is an issue but you wont get any noticable performance difference with an LS1 or LS6 cam in a 6.0. Is it an LQ9 LQ4 etc... block?
Oil Pump: Depends but you couldnt go wrong with a Walboro 255
You may be able to re-use the injectors, what intake are you putting on it? Stock truck intake or LS6 intake?
Last edited by 1997transamman; Dec 8, 2011 at 12:53 PM.
Is your "6.0" an LQ4? 9? or is it one of the aluminum blocks from the GTO etc.? I assume by the year that it's a 4 or 9. If it's a 9 a cam swap should be fine to get you decent power, stock 317s should be fine. If it's a 4 imo, you need to get that compression up with some heads but it's not REQUIRED for the motor to run.. not at all.
If it's a LQ4/9 your accessories will fit just fine, your ls1 intake will fit and your injectors too, but you're missing 2 holes in the Lq4/9 block where the alternator sits. You don't HAVWE to have them.. but the bracket won't mount the same way, you will have to mount the alt a bit more manually. (same place, just.. the bracket wont hold itself on.) You can tap one of these holes, the other hole cannot exist.
sorry you responded while I was..
an Lq4 has dished pistons, an Lq9 has flat top pistons. Did it come out of an escalade? If so it's probably a 9, a 2500hd? probably a 4. You can probably snap a picture of the bottom end with the pan off (you need to use your ls1 windage tray, pickup tube and oil pan on this) and we can take our best guess from the rods as they are different as well.
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Some people have reported over 400whp out of them on stock 317 heads. Basically, a "cam only" engine. I saw a guy on here selling his Z28 with an Lq4, stock 317s, a 232/234 cam (iirc) and is claimimg 420WHP out of it via an Ls6 intake.
You just have dished pistons with decreases your compression a little compared to the Lq9 which has flat top pistons.
317s are good heads, I'd say, better than the Ls1's stock head.
If you want cheap heads, get a set of 5.3 heads for it, the tiny combustion chamber should increase compression closeer to 11, just check your PTV clearance if you run a cam with a lot of lift.
Also make sure that if you have more than .600" on the cam lift wise you upgrade the springs on those 5.3 heads.
Also, do LOTS of research on this and don't rush, cos I feel like I'm over simplifying here, and you don't wanna do this wrong. An Lq4 is a great motor with a solid bottom end, dished pistons or no.
Lq9 pistons are gonna cost you more than it's worth to use em.
Stock the Lq9 made 345FWHP, the L:q4 made somewhere around 300 BUT.. the stock Lq4 cam is something like a 190/190.. it's almost just a smooth cylinder.
It's a truck cam. Put something in the low 230s in there and it will really come alive.
Here.. your CHEAPEST route imo to get this up and running would be:
pull your ls1 oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube, dipstick and tube, get a new ls1 waterpump, pull your ls1's crank pulley, use all your ls1 accessories, use your 317s, use your stock Lq4 bottom end, use your stock Ls1 intake and injectors, drop in a new oil pump (TSP has an Ls6 ported oil pump if you are concerned, oil is important) and drop in a low 230s cam with less than .600" lift.. and drop it in.. see how you like it.
oh.. and USE A NEW CRANK PULLEY BOLT. They are torque to yield and are spent after 1 use.
Last edited by DarkFox118; Dec 8, 2011 at 01:57 PM.
What is the casting numbers on your head? if they are 317 heads, the ports are very similar to the LS6 243 casting(most wil claim they are identical), they just have larger combustion chambers, hence the lower compression ratio. If you are on a budget, I would use them as is. Remember milling the heads will most likely require new pushrods.
How many miles on your motor? If it has alot of miles, I would suggest at least putting in new gaskets (at minimum you will need at least oil pan, water pump, intake, and valve cover) an LS2 timing chain (~$40), along with all the other stuff you need when swapping any used motor- fresh set of plugs, new thermostat, etc.
I wouldnt bother with the oil pump or rod bolts for a relatively stock motor. Unless you plan to spin it to 7000k regularly, the stock stuff should hold up fine.
A good budget cam that many run is the LS6 cam- just remember with any cam you will need matching springs that you will need to account for in your budget.
Alternatively, I think you can run a different flywheel/flexplate to solve this problem? If going to a T56/60E this is an issue yea, for an 80e conversion not so much as it is my understanding.
+1 on preventative failures, how much of a "budget" are you on? If this is a "omg I've gotta take the bus" scenario, you can skip some preventative work, but if you want to "do this once, and do it right".. certainly a big supporter of changing out gaskets for common failure points while the engine is out.
Curious tho.. if you're gonna do that, why not spend the extra ~$300 or so for an oil pump now, and $50 for a timing chain while you're in there, than to have to do it once it's in the car if the stocker should fail?
I'm doing a 6.0 Lq4 build from an 03 2500HD for my 00 Z. I'm doing a 233/239 cam, new tsp oil pump, ls6 valley cover, ls2 timing chain, and PROBABLY a set of prc 227cc heads @ ~57CC chambers to compensate for the compression loss. My motor is a jasper engines rebuild from 2009 ~20-40k miles of wear on it, bored .020 over. I'm TARGETING 400whp as my floor, but hoping for 420-450 or more.
I'm not on a very tight budget with it however, so I'm making sure to take extra measures that aren't "necessary" but.. good ideas.
Look at the heads toward the front on th driver's side. Should be a 3 digit number stamped into it just below the valve cover. Almost certain they're 317s.





