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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:23 PM
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Default Help with cam choice

New user, heard you guys are #1 when it comes to LS1's.

My question is, what cam should I go with?
Pretty much I have a stock motor, 00 TA, Borla catback, gutted cats, and a Lid.
I want to get a cam nothing big, and still want to reuse my stock retainers and what not, the only things I plan on changing is the cam and the pushrods. Which cam would give me a decent gain over the stock cam and still sound "stockish"?
And second question: is this possible, meaning keep the stock springs and retainers and what not.

All info appreciated.
Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:31 PM
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My (and most others here) advice is to get a set of long tube headers before a cam.
Once you get those, go for a TR224 (Thunder) on 114 lsa. You can't go wrong with it.
Another to look into is the MTI Stealth II cam, if want the really stealthy approach.
Both cams are over ------>
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:31 PM
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You can try one of Thunder's 212/218 duration cams they dont really lope and you should able to use stock retainers.
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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No money for LT's yet, gotta save up for some FLP's in the future, all I want is some cam that will fit for cheap (I'll buy used) that will increase the power a little. And if possible plz post gains as well.

Thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:44 PM
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Go ahead, spend your money on the cam. When it makes only 15 ponies on stock exhaust manifolds, don't say we didn't warn ya.
You need LT's to get that ariflow going.
I think I just saw a post of a Head/Cam swap done on stock manifolds and it was puttin' down like 340something rwhp. Normally, you'd see 400 rwhp on a H/C swap. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:47 PM
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Hmmmmmm.. You got a point there.
any more insight people?
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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I am no expert but really long tubes is the way to go. I went up to 355rwhp 370rwtq with long tubes, UD pulley and tune. That was also with a lid and open cutout. Very noticable over stock. Keep your eye on the parts for sale. Our look at Hooker or some of the less expensive LT's
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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It really is kind of backwards to do the exhaust after the cam.

Get the headers and the cam, install them at once and get it dyno tuned the same day. That cam will drive like stock expect for the noise (thats cat back dependent).

224 is baby stuff now a days.
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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research and plan. this site is a wealth of info, use it to get a base knowledge of cams.
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 11:29 PM
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Thanks guys for all the infor, big help, I guess time to save up for the FLPs then.
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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I noticed more from the TR220/114 cam than I did the headers, and I did the cam first.

But I would definately go with a larger cam. My 220 will be for sale in a couple/few weeks if you are patient

Chuck
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 01:29 AM
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If you don't want to spend that much on your headers, you could always go with a lower cost set like Pacesetters, Flowtechs, Jet Hots, or Hookers. I went with the Pacesetters and I have zero complains so far...

And it is definitely a better idea to do the headers before the cam... it's the only way to go if you want your cam to perform like it should.

Also, there is no aftermarket cam that you'll be able to use your stock springs on. If you're going to do a cam install, do it right... get good valve springs and pushrods to go with the cam of your choice.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 05:42 AM
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If you are new to this board I suggest you get a notebook and keep track of peoples comments. I did this for about 4 months before I ordered my parts and when I orderd I new exactly what I wanted. You can also keep track of parts for sale so you know when something is a good deal.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 98_1LE
I noticed more from the TR220/114 cam than I did the headers, and I did the cam first.

But I would definately go with a larger cam. My 220 will be for sale in a couple/few weeks if you are patient

Chuck
what was your gain (if possible) and are you selling springs and rods to go with it, let me know, might be interested.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 12:14 PM
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Here ya go.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=495030

or
BRAND NEW!! Comp Cams XR275HR-12 cam..
.566/.588 112* LSA and 222/224 Dur.
I paid $370 for this cam, im asking $150.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=494492

Last edited by 94form2000z; Mar 16, 2004 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 01:25 PM
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Default cam vs. headers

Originally Posted by SouthFL.02.SS
Go ahead, spend your money on the cam. When it makes only 15 ponies on stock exhaust manifolds, don't say we didn't warn ya.
You need LT's to get that ariflow going.
I think I just saw a post of a Head/Cam swap done on stock manifolds and it was puttin' down like 340something rwhp. Normally, you'd see 400 rwhp on a H/C swap. Just my 2 cents.

I just put a comp cam in my 2000 T/A, 224/224 .581 - .581 with a 112. I hope this guys right because my Flowtech headers have been on backorder for quite a while now. I can barely feel the power difference but with the 112 lsa you can see the car shake just a little at idle. I wish I would have gotten my headers in first but I was just to excited to wait....now I wished I did!
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 02:00 PM
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With any aftermarket cam, aftermarket springs are manditory not optional.
you can however, use your locks & retainers.
i didn't see it posted.. if you have a a4 think about a converter and headers...
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:19 PM
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I have a manual

94from2000z, how are those TTS headers that you are selling.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 04:36 PM
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I linked you to someone elses stuff. Not my stuff.
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LukeyTA
what was your gain (if possible) and are you selling springs and rods to go with it, let me know, might be interested.
With this cam and headers the car went from 338 rwhp to 380 rwhp. It drives pretty much like stock once warmed up.

I will be selling Comp Ti retainers and will throw in a set of 918 springs, but the springs have almost 18K miles on them so I would not reuse them. I drive the car hard, but maintain it well (average of <1700 miles per oil change). I ordered the new stuff tonight, but it won't be here for a couple weeks. Then another week or two for the install. PM me if you want to make a deal.
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